O.K. guys,here it is; I haven't been able to ride since about mid-June. I ruptured a disk in my back. I have had a lot of time to think about what I will do for the Wide Glide this winter.
She could use a fresh top end-I am thinking of saving some cash an doing it myself. I would also like to learn more about her.
Anyone here attack the top end for the first time recently? Is it a tough job? Seems pretty basic. What tools will I need? Should I replace the studs?
I know I have a lot of questions for one post...any feed back is appreciated...

 

I've had the top of the motor off. A couple times. Once behind the motel on the way home from Sturgis. It's not that big of a deal. I don't know twinkies, but an Evo top end is no more difficult to do than a Shovelhead (shudder). You just don't have to do it near as often.

I would not replace the studs. Leave them alone. Just my opinion. As for tools, some basic hand tools and an inch-pounds torque wrench is all you need. Sub out the machine shop work like any boring/honing, head rebuilding (valve guides if needed, etc.) Use a machine shop that knows how to do Evos. They should have torque plates for the cylinders or find another shop.

Hope your back gets to feeling better.

 

I kinda know how you feel. I had surgery on the 29th on June. I was lucky and healed well and was riding in Aug. If you do it over the Winter you won't be in a rush. Take your time follow the FACTORY shop manual. Use good parts OEM or better. Research and find agood shop as the Dr. said, that is set up for Evos. There are alot of Hacks out there. I would imagin in the Twin Cities area there has to be a good shop if not more. Even if you have to buy some tools that you don't have it will be worth it. Hope you have a heated garage. Get if the ground with a lift or somthing and save your back.

 

BFT, check out the Boarhouse in Lino Lakes and Full Throttle Custom Cycle in North ST Paul. I've heard good things about both places but you'll need to check with them about their expertize in EVOs.

 

I have met those guys at Full Throttle a couple of times.(They used to advertise with a local magazine I worked for) They are good guys,and yes,have a good reputation.
I was actually talking with my friend Bug tonight-I think I will have him do the heads for me (He used to work for Kokesh).
I look forward to taking a crack at it! I will be installing a good heater in a few weeks and yes,I have a lift! (Thanks Harbor Freight!)

 

I had forgotten about Kokesh since I haven't been there after their move from Spring Lake Park. Good luck.

 

I did the top end and a cam on my 99 Heritage Springer this past winter. It did not necessarily need to have it done but when I bought the bike it had a bunch of high-performance mods on it that did not really suit my riding style (hard starting, didn't really run well in my rpm range, etc). I bought a set of heads at really good price off eBay and had the valves done and the cylinders honed by a local indie shop. He let me borrow the tool to replace the inner cam bearing.

Anyway, that was the first time I had my evo apart. It's pretty straight-forward but the rear rocker base is a real pain to get off and put back on (at least on my softail frame - don't know about glides). In order to remove the middle section I had to first remove some of the screws holding the base section to the head. So, of course, to reverse the process when putting it back together I could not bolt the rocker base to the head until I had the middle section in place, which basically made it impossible to use a torque wrench on the rocker base bolts. Anyway, it all worked out - I've got 3000 miles on the rebuild and no seeps or leaks anywhere.

The nice thing about doing it over the winter is you don't have to rush it. Take your time - if you get stuck ask questions.

 

When I did mine, I took the tank off and removed the front mount. Let the engine down and had plenty of room.. I thought the studs would be a good idea, but one of mine was stuck and, to make a very long story short, I had to put a thread insert in the case.. In hind-sight, I'd leave the studs, although I'd still do new head bolts..