Need Advice on installind Idle Air Control
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
If the IAC moves at all...it is working and no need to replace it. This part either works or does not work.
Once the TPS setting is correct, it rarely ever goes out of adjustment.
If I was you, I would go through setting the hot/cold idle setting again and check for vacum leaks. Also, make sure the throttle body is clean.
The best way and only way I have ever gotten the hot/cold idle correct....
Get the bike fully warmed up
Set hot idle to about 1,000 RPM
Shutoff engine
Disconnect IAC
Restart bike and set to about 1,500 RPM
Shutoff engine
Connect IAC
Disconnect battery
After the procedure and best when the bike is stone cold. Start the bike, the RPM should quickly rise to about the cold setting you set which should be around 1500. It then should quickly lower itself to about 1000.
Once the TPS setting is correct, it rarely ever goes out of adjustment.
If I was you, I would go through setting the hot/cold idle setting again and check for vacum leaks. Also, make sure the throttle body is clean.
The best way and only way I have ever gotten the hot/cold idle correct....
Get the bike fully warmed up
Set hot idle to about 1,000 RPM
Shutoff engine
Disconnect IAC
Restart bike and set to about 1,500 RPM
Shutoff engine
Connect IAC
Disconnect battery
After the procedure and best when the bike is stone cold. Start the bike, the RPM should quickly rise to about the cold setting you set which should be around 1500. It then should quickly lower itself to about 1000.
I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. Some was more useful then others, but all, I am sure, was meant to help get Blue Bella back running happy.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,078
Likes: 2,150
From: Ohio
Larsfum, I forgot about disconnecting the temp sensor but not for sure if it will triigger the check engine light.
Evoriders riders method of disconnecting the IAC at key on and reconnecting it is a theory of the ECM relearning the IAC values after they are not present.
The M&M isn't a bad system, just a little teedious when trying to repair it, that is why there is so many methods of repair. The Harley repair guidelines doesn't always work with this system so alot of "let's try this" Don't be closed minded to a intake leak
I hope the method you choose works and that simple but many threads of M&M owners spent a thousand dollar bill at dealerships trying to repair idle issues and still not right. I did some extensive engine mods and just started using the throttle lock for fast idle because of the inconsistant idle on a non-stock application, that is why I know how to adjust it with the air breather on. Hope all goes well this weekend.
Evoriders riders method of disconnecting the IAC at key on and reconnecting it is a theory of the ECM relearning the IAC values after they are not present.
The M&M isn't a bad system, just a little teedious when trying to repair it, that is why there is so many methods of repair. The Harley repair guidelines doesn't always work with this system so alot of "let's try this" Don't be closed minded to a intake leak
I hope the method you choose works and that simple but many threads of M&M owners spent a thousand dollar bill at dealerships trying to repair idle issues and still not right. I did some extensive engine mods and just started using the throttle lock for fast idle because of the inconsistant idle on a non-stock application, that is why I know how to adjust it with the air breather on. Hope all goes well this weekend.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
EVOrider, I am a bit confused about your procedure. I understand how to set the warm idle,and agree up to that point. Then you say to disconnect the IAC, and adjust to 1500 RPM. I assume you are adjusting the cold idle screw on the IAC for that. Every other procedure, other than Harley's, suggests to disconnect the temp contril sensor on the top of the motor. Then set to 1500 RPM. Are you standing by what you wrote?
I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. Some was more useful then others, but all, I am sure, was meant to help get Blue Bella back running happy.
I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. Some was more useful then others, but all, I am sure, was meant to help get Blue Bella back running happy.
I have done the HD method of hot/cold idle setting.....never really had good results with it. If I had a nice scanalyzer, this method would probably work fine. Most people don't have a scanalyzer just laying around.
I have also tried other methods that say to remove the two fuses. They simply don't work for me.
The method I use may or maynot work for you. But, it works great for my bike with the desired results. Won't cost you anything to try......hope it helps.
Curious though....how does everyone else here set the hot/cold idle settings.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
Just an update. Finally got around to replacing the IAC. I was able to get the TPC sensor voltage reading by slipping a piece of machinist wire down the Grey/Yellow wire, and measuring from that to ground. Getting the two torx screws off of the IAC is a challenge, but doable. You really do not need to remove the actuator arm as instructed. The IAC can rotate out once the torx screws are removed. Problem solved, and the bike runs much cleaner now.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Windseeker
EVO
7
Jul 4, 2019 07:44 PM
