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Bad batteries usually don't recover after a load and fall off into the 8v to 10v range, you mentioned of good voltage and nothing, that battery wouldn't of recovered back to 11.9 or 12 volts on it's own from a slow crank situation. I still believe you have a bad connection at the battery and the jumper cables provided a good ground from an external source. Just an opinion.
the battery is an H-D, it was new four years ago, took it for a load test and they told me it failed, I took it with 12.1V in it so... would it be possible the battery doesn't charge to the desired 12.6v to crank the engine anymore?
I just read the "battery draining question" topic, and I could easily check for a bike drain connecting the ammeter between a battery cable and the battery to see if there is any current drain...
as far as grounding goes, I took the ohmeter and touched the negative terminal to any part of the engine or frame to check continuity and it had 0 ohms between them, so I guess grounding is good
ok, so.. performed the ammeter test and I had to dial it to the microAmps for a reading, it gave 4.9microamps being drained from the battery.. that's nothing and falls well into the fact that the battery loses 1% of charge daily... I guess it's the battery finally...hope that DEFINITELY is
4 years old. Sounds like its time to buy a Battery. Your voltages sounded on the low side from the start. Do you use any kind of charger/maintainer like a Battery tender or other brand? If not I would invest in some kind of charger /maintainer. Their are a lot of different ones on the market now. I use a Battery tender, but there are cheaper ones that work well. Is it hard to get parts in Tegucigalpa ?
yea, it's hard to get the parts here, I have to work my way to getting what I need, there's only one dealer and not too many harleys as to say they bring a lot of stuff for them, and the things they sell are usually not that cheap. Any investment like that I have to buy it from the states and have it shipped here, it's cheaper
Voltages are dependent on load. Battery alone may measure proper voltage but not have good cranking current as they age. Add a car battery , more current to the system and the starter spins well.
Next thought would be the starter itself. Windings shorting, bad brushes, corrosion all have a negative effect. They cause the starter to require more current to spin it.
There is a current test you can run on the starter to test it's draw.
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