Moving on from my "Top End" thread where I got all the info needed, I need more help.
I am collecting honed barrells from machine shop today, so all going to plan at present.
In my last thread it was suggested that it would be a good time to fit an EV27 cam. I did source one at a reasonable price so it is on its way as we speak.
I have a few concerns though. Reading the fitting instructions on Andrews web site, they talk about measurements, spacers, teeth pitch etc etc. This is nearly putting me off.
Also, I don't plan on fitting adjustable pushrods or new lifters, is this ok? (This is really on a tight budget and except the cam was a good price and engine is stripped I would not be doing it at all)
I was under the impression it was a straight, simple swop!!!!! Is it?
Just to remind people offering assistance, the bike is a 1986 FLST with an S&S Super E, more or less straight thru pipes and a Scremin Eagle Module, otherwise standard.
I also read differing reports on cam, so I want to know, will it REALLY make any difference to normal riding?

Thanks to all in advance,
Tony.

 

Use your old gear on the cam and you won't have any problems.

 

Press the gear off your old cam and on to the new one.

If that makes you nervous you could just install the new cam as is and hope for the best. The worst that could happen would be you'd need to pull the cam and change the gear later. Not the end of the world with adjustable pushrods but using the stockers you'll have to pull the heads and that adds a couple of hours labor minimum...

"I also read differing reports on cam, so I want to know, will it REALLY make any difference to normal riding?"

OH YEAH!!! You'll notice the difference.. The drag pipes are a drag but you've got a good carburetor and ignition, your stock cam is pretty wimpy. You'll also really see the difference when you've got the two cams side by side in hand. The stocker really is a 'bump stick' built mostly to appease government officials.

 

Buy the pins and measure for pitch. The instructions and tolerances are on the instructions sheet that comes with the cam. The pins are only about $12.00. You may only use them once or twice in your life but it's worth it.
Using your old gear works too, assuming the gear on it is correct. Keep in mind there is no keyway to align the shaft and gear though.

 

Plenty of peeps here to help you. Unfortunately for you (maybe it is fortunately LOL), I can not help you.

Here is a link I found with pictures just doing a quick Google search - do this for yourself also.

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage1.htm

Maybe you have a friend or two who can help...or in my case, laugh at me. Hahaha Another set of eyes is nice.

You will notice the difference with the cams.

 

Again, thanks to all for input.
If I change the gear, is that all I need do?
What about enplay? I read somewhere that if it is an OE cam that there will be no spacing washer, (and if there is a washer, the cam has been changed) and if I added a .050 washer it would probably be right. Is this correct?
Also, if I swop gears, with what do I align it up with when pressing it on?
If I fit cam, will have tgo re-jet carb or just re-tune?
Sorry about all this, but I just don't want to end up with 2 cams of no use!!!!!!!!!

Cheers.

Tony.

Ps. Thanks for video link greenohawk69, but it was for a twincam. Cannot find one for an evo.

 

You may need a press to pull your old gear off. A little heat goes a long ways to make this easier. The Andrews cam has an index mark that you'll see when you remove the gear from it. That index mark is 180 degrees from the timing mark on your oem gear. (not the mark for the breather gear, the one for the pinion) I scribed a line on mine so it would be easier to line up during installation of the oem gear onto the an\Andrews cam. Again, heat up the gear (I used an oven set to 200 degrees for about 90 minutes). When the gear is warm it will go on easily and if you goof up on the alignment you'll be able to move it while it's still warm.

 

I had to add a .050 cam shim. I can't remember off the top of my head if it has to do with certain years or what. My motor was a 91. It's simple to measure, you should pick up a pair of digital calipers. If you are going to reuse your old cam gear I'm assuming you will be taking it to a bike shop or a local machine shop? They should make sure its in "phase." All machine shops have guage pins, you could always just take your cam and gear in to one along with your spec sheet and just have them measure them for you.
If the pitch is too loose, it wont hurt anything, but will make noise like a valve needs adjustment. Too tight will make noise as well. But not one you really want to hear..
If you have a service manual, your cam sheet, and the guage pins and a pair of calipers it will be a piece of cake. In fact I'll bet you will find that it was harder to get your valves adjusted than to install the cam.

 

The way I've done it is to install the cam and cover using the old gasket, minus the lifter blocks, torque to spec and then reach a feeler guage into the gap between the cam and case. It's easier to do than it is to describe. On my FL I had to shim .060... Your mileage may vary..

Roadking describes the process for pressing the gear off the original cam and onto the new one very well...