Hey guys. I'm getting ready to do a little upgrading on my RK. It's a 95 with 23,000 miles on it.
Here's the list:

Andrews EV13
Inner cam bearing
Andrews adj. chrome moly push rods
H.D. lifters
Jet kit w/ Thunder Slide
Big Shot Duals
A.N. Big Sucker

So the question I have is, Do I NEED to upgrade the ignition? If so, could you please explain why and what it will do for me? Also, I'm not sure about head work. I have no idea what head work costs but I would hate to find out that I was 4 or 5 hundred dollars away from something good becoming something great.

 

Forget the jet kit and thunderslide, we feel that they let the slide open too soon, softening the bottom and on the dyno's sometimes you get a "sawtooth" curve from the slide moving up and down. The jets are simple start with going one size larger on the low speed and put the 1988 sporty needle. That way you will get good performance and decent mileage.
Sock ignitions are set for emissions and longevity, by having different curves and low rev limits. Aftermarket ignitions can be tweaked to give a little more performance, especially by raising the rev limit.

 

Why are you choosing the Andrews EV13? Just curious as to your thoughts I am kinda looking at cams right now.

Otherwise I have heard adjustable push-rods are not necessary. And you can get SE heads for about 650-700 bucks i would do that before reworking old heads. With 23k you're probably just fine.

 

Thanks miacycles. I will go with the Sporty needle. Sounds like I do need the aftermarket ignition.
Defy I decided on the 13 because it's power is low end thru mid range. That's where I figured a heavy bike needed the power. Plus, I don't do much riding in the 5000 rpm range. I'm using adj. push rods so that I don't have to take the tank and rockers off.

 

I think what Defy was getting at was that if you wanted to do heads, you'd have them off anyway so standard pushrods would work easily. I have the ev27 in my RK, I think you'd like either one but you're the best judge based on your riding style.

 

I'm just not sure on the head work yet. But yes, I could use standard push rods if I'm going to have the heads off anyhow. Save a little money in the process!

96 RK - I just went back and looked at the 27. Now I'm wondering which one I would like more. I already have the 13 but that's not a big deal. I just don't want to be dissappointed with the results. I do VERY little interstate riding so I figured the lower rpm cam would suit me better. But then, I do like to wind it up somtimes so now I'm not sure. Does the 13 just "die" after you reach the upper end? What are your thoughts on the two? By the way, that's a sharp looking RK you've got. What other mods have you done?

 

can't tell you much about the ev13 because I've never had one. others here may be able to help with that. I bought my RK last March with 5900 miles on it. I've done stage one, the cam, Rumble Road Ultra amped speakers, some additional rear lighting and added a Stebel Nova air horn. 2 into 1 exhaust in the works.

 

I used an EV27 in my bike during its early years and it was fine. I have also read good things about the EV13 and I wouldn't change it if you already have one. Cam makers tend to talk up their cams performance, so don't read too much into the ads! Use 'search' on EV13 to see if anything helpful comes up.

In addition to John's comments about the stock ignition, the advance 'curve' is not there to help the bike! An after-market one will have a friendly curve that will give better performance from the moment you pull away from standstill. I used a Crane, but there are others.

Browse through older posts here in the Evo forum and you will probably come across useful tips on cams and ignition systems.

 

An engine is nothing more than an air pump. The more air that you can put through it efficently, the more fuel that will be drawn through which will equal power and torque. That being said tells you that a good intake system, Air cleaner, carb, manifold, intake ports, valves, and sufficent area around the perimeter of the valves to allow good airflow. Combined with an efficent combustion chamber, exhaust valve, exhaust port, and pipes/muffler combination will give you the best performance. So the more of these parts that you can afford to put into your engine the better it will run. Hope this helps.

 

John is politely saying how much money do you want to spend? key to a Evo is getting some compression in those cylinders. EV27 and some compression is a proven combo and no guessing, will pull that big bike and still have some giddy up in the upper rpm's but your wallet will be lighter.
In a personal opinion, I like the Ultima 2000I ignition kit for it's price and curve flexability, comes with the high voltage coil and wires and is also a good upgrade if you get the compression up.
I can tell you from personel experiance that SE heads are flat down low on a big bike, expecially with true duels. A good engine guy named John Sachs explained the port design is not desirable for the 2500 rpm range and can't be altered in flow to help that area and stock heads can have the flow controled in the area needed for a big bike. Once again, compression, cams, ignition, exhaust, air is needed but it all comes together in the heads so they are vital to effieciancy so each mod compliments the other, I've learned that the simple Briggs and Stratton designed HD motor is very complex when it comes to making it run.
I have self satisfaction when I can run (outrun) with modded light bikes and warmed up shovels but the price is heavy, money, wife evil looks, incorrect parts choices were made but also researched that in the medical world that a thick wallet offsets the spine while sitting causing back problems so I am using preventative measures to be able to walk upright as I get older
Dink, one tip on the big bike, look into changing the primary gearing to 3.34 or a little lower if you don't do interstates, the front pulley kit is becoming cost friendly.