clutch input
Has anyone got any hands on knowledge about the Barnett carbon fiber clutch setup? I wanted the kevlar but there on BO, so I ordered
Barnett with Contains 9 carbon fiber friction plates and 8 steel drive plates. 96-51 KIT EXTRA PLATE. I'm just not quite sure what I'm in for or what the differnce would be between the oem and barnett kevlar and carbon.
I understand your point regarding it not being flat.
Unless it was really twisted, it is not going to be a huge issue, as it will still apply relatively even pressure when compressed.
The idea of the spring plate is to prevent the take up zone of the clutch from being too sudden. Obviously, you want good clearance in the clutch pack when the lever is in, and this is an area where a twisted spring could have a noticeable impact.
Some think that a spring plate interferes with the "performance" of the clutch, and it is common to either see them removed, or not allowed for in some kits. They can somewhat fail as far as their riveting goes, and this(obviously) requires either their replacement, or elimination.
If you have a street bike, I see no problem with running one.
Kevlar is well known for having a solid "take-up". That sounds good, but is actually the opposite of the spring plate idea, which provides for a gentle "take-up".
I have never particularly liked them. Too harsh for everyday use. But some favour them.
What you want is a clutch with enough clamping power to function, but not so much that it is too "heavy". Plate material is best matched to the use of the vehicle. A race "based" clutch sounds great, but can have drawbacks for street use.
Unless it was really twisted, it is not going to be a huge issue, as it will still apply relatively even pressure when compressed.
The idea of the spring plate is to prevent the take up zone of the clutch from being too sudden. Obviously, you want good clearance in the clutch pack when the lever is in, and this is an area where a twisted spring could have a noticeable impact.
Some think that a spring plate interferes with the "performance" of the clutch, and it is common to either see them removed, or not allowed for in some kits. They can somewhat fail as far as their riveting goes, and this(obviously) requires either their replacement, or elimination.
If you have a street bike, I see no problem with running one.
Kevlar is well known for having a solid "take-up". That sounds good, but is actually the opposite of the spring plate idea, which provides for a gentle "take-up".
I have never particularly liked them. Too harsh for everyday use. But some favour them.
What you want is a clutch with enough clamping power to function, but not so much that it is too "heavy". Plate material is best matched to the use of the vehicle. A race "based" clutch sounds great, but can have drawbacks for street use.
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