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Do you mind telling us what brand caliper and rotor you used. I am currently searching for 13" floating rotors and they are not very common. I have a Jaybrake 6 piston caliper, for a 13" rotor because it has the largest piston surface area available.
Thanks,
Don
Hi Don,
My rotors are Harrison, and calipers their Billet-6. They're British, made just a short drive away from where I live. The only other brand I know are your very own PM brand, which should be more affordable. The word 'cheap' doesn't sit easily with these things!
I don't have any scientific data for you Mr Brown but I put a 6-pot caliper on a 2008 FXDWG with OEM disc and crikey dick...it STOPS!!!! It needs to as it is a 101HP bike and very fast.
What I like about the set up is that the 6-pot has more progressive braking and feel than the original 4-pot had and is light years ahead of the older Evo type single pot caliper.
Had no issues with heat under heavy braking but it does feel as though its going to rip lumps out of the tarmac if you squeeze too hard :-)
I don't have any scientific data for you Mr Brown but I put a 6-pot caliper on a 2008 FXDWG with OEM disc and crikey dick...it STOPS!!!! It needs to as it is a 101HP bike and very fast.
What I like about the set up is that the 6-pot has more progressive braking and feel than the original 4-pot had and is light years ahead of the older Evo type single pot caliper.
Had no issues with heat under heavy braking but it does feel as though its going to rip lumps out of the tarmac if you squeeze too hard :-)
Hi Spanners,
102HP here! My twin 13" rotors with 6-pot calipers are just fine!
Maybe mine is 103hp then? yes, that must be it...103hp
I wasn't saying your brakes weren't good and at 15 tons heavier than a Wide Glide you will be needing what you have but I was trying to make the point that it is possible to prove something without scientific data...some things prove themselves but then I am a mechanic and you are an engineer....two completely different approaches to the subject of buggering about in sheds
Maybe mine is 103hp then? yes, that must be it...103hp
I wasn't saying your brakes weren't good and at 15 tons heavier than a Wide Glide you will be needing what you have but I was trying to make the point that it is possible to prove something without scientific data...some things prove themselves but then I am a mechanic and you are an engineer....two completely different approaches to the subject of buggering about in sheds
I wasn't being scientific or anything like that, just braggin'....
I started this same type thread last fall.Basically I recieved the same type answers. My thoughts were this.....The softail Heritage only has one rotor and it stops just fine.
I`ve been riding a single rotor Softail for 22 years, and I agree it stops fine, compared to a loaded dump truck...
I`ve been riding a single rotor Softail for 22 years, and I agree it stops fine, compared to a loaded dump truck...
And therein lies the reason for this thread and all my damn research on what to do to get my FXDWG to stop properly. Preferably, without having to mortgage my house to do it. Mine stopped?? like a half loaded dump truck.
I changed the pads to Lyndal Gold += nicer stopping feel at a stop sign, but still didn't stop any better from speed. I put on a floating rotor, no improvement. I put on a Tokico 6 piston caliper and maybe it stopped better, maybe it didn't. The only caliper that I could find that had more piston surface area than the stock HD 4 piston caliper, is Jaybrake's 6 piston. I just ordered one for a 13" rotor and am now trying to find a way to tell who has the best friction material on their rotors. Again, without having to mortgage my house. I kind of believe that just because it is more money, doesn't mean it is better. Unfortunately, that is not always true. It would sure be nice if there was a place where they tested and compared all this stuff, so we could make informed decisions.
My rotors are Harrison, and calipers their Billet-6. They're British, made just a short drive away from where I live. The only other brand I know are your very own PM brand, which should be more affordable. The word 'cheap' doesn't sit easily with these things!
Thanks. I was looking at those on the web yesterday. All I can say is that you are spoiled. They are magnificent works of art. Unfortunately, I think they are likely the most expensive solution out there and above my pay grade. But damn they are gorgeous. I couldn't find a drooling icon or I would have put it here. I ordered a Jaybrake, 6 piston caliper and am now trying to decide on a rotor. Friction material in the rotor is the most important issue, and I have no idea how I am going to resolve that issue.
Is jealousy a sin?
gdt3, if it is any consolation I couldn't afford to replace them! I haven't checked what I paid for them, but Harrison stuff seems astronomically expensive now.
Stainless steel is the worst material for stopping power, cast iron is best but it looks crap...so we get a compromise....the expensive aftermarket stuff is expensive because it works and some thought has been put into it.
Brembo used to make cast iron rotors and they stopped very nicely indeed!
The real key to getting a Harley to stop is to change the master cylinder...it is very primitive but there are very few options available....try a Harley twin disc master with a 6 or 4 pot single caliper.
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