charging question on my`99 fatboy
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
George, I don't wish to sound negative, but there can come a time when expert help is the quickest way to solve a problem. I am across the Atlantic and none of us are close enough to diagnose things easily for you. Don't bang your head against this for too long, but see if you have a nearby indy who can help. He might be able to diagnose it quickly, with the bike in front of him, and send you on your way with a wide grin! Try it.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 1
From: N.E. Ohio
Your voltages are low. I put a new stator and regulator on last summer. 32 amp. I get 14volts @1000 rpms. Dr Hess posted a easy to read charging system check a while back. Don't panic. with only 10,000 miles it's probably the regulator. But test everything before just running out and buying one. Personally I would go with OE one from HD.
Heres a link to how to check your charging system.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...or-stator.html
Heres a link to how to check your charging system.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...or-stator.html
Last edited by BB4xl; Apr 30, 2011 at 12:11 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
Likes: 7,127
From: Beyond Fucital
system only maintains voltage at 12-12.5 volts at idle, charges at 14-14.5 while riding.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Poland, EU
I`m having this same problem with my FLHTC `88.
There should be about13V at idle speed, going higher with engine speed. Check your Regulator, it might be going dead. But the alternator might be faulty, too. Or both. Easiest way is to swap regulator with similar bike. Remember to put Your regulator into other bike, not the other way round because if Your alternator is faulty it might cause damage to someone`s regulator.
Not sure if it`s OK on this forum to post links to other forums, but I will risk. Here is clear and simple step-by-step instruction.
http://www.hdtalking.com/electrical_...ng_system.html
BTW. Does anyone know what size nut is on the clutch hub in 1988 FLHTC? I know later models have different size, not sure which socket should I buy. My bike is in one piece, want to order tools before I start working on it. Compensator nut is 1 1/2"? I`m a bit confused, living in "metric country".
There should be about13V at idle speed, going higher with engine speed. Check your Regulator, it might be going dead. But the alternator might be faulty, too. Or both. Easiest way is to swap regulator with similar bike. Remember to put Your regulator into other bike, not the other way round because if Your alternator is faulty it might cause damage to someone`s regulator.
Not sure if it`s OK on this forum to post links to other forums, but I will risk. Here is clear and simple step-by-step instruction.
http://www.hdtalking.com/electrical_...ng_system.html
BTW. Does anyone know what size nut is on the clutch hub in 1988 FLHTC? I know later models have different size, not sure which socket should I buy. My bike is in one piece, want to order tools before I start working on it. Compensator nut is 1 1/2"? I`m a bit confused, living in "metric country".
Last edited by NutterFLH; Apr 30, 2011 at 02:28 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Stator should be checked running, it has to produce a certain amount of ACV per 1000 rpm,no increase = no charge.
If you static tested the regulator you should be aware that they are little liars them things! Can tell you things that ain't true......Batt charging voltage comes directly from the regulator, if no show at batt and continuity in wire from reg output exists then reg is likely to be stuffed...if ACV from stator checks out OK.
If you static tested the regulator you should be aware that they are little liars them things! Can tell you things that ain't true......Batt charging voltage comes directly from the regulator, if no show at batt and continuity in wire from reg output exists then reg is likely to be stuffed...if ACV from stator checks out OK.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 127
From: Middle of Kansas
I would put my money on it being the regulator, as these things are known for going bad. I had to replace mine at about 25,000 miles. But checking things as said above is the place to start. I had good AC volts at the output of the alternator, and cleaned the plug for the regulator, but still low at the battery. Changed the regulator with a Harley one, because they are not perfect, but seem to last longer than the aftermarket ones. That fixed it. One other thing you can check is the breaker where the regulator connects to. Easy enough to jumper accross it to see if your battery voltage jumps up. Also check connections there to be sure they are tight.
Last edited by Jim Kraft; Apr 30, 2011 at 08:26 PM. Reason: added info
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
All good advise. Another tidbit I ran across on here was to "hard wire" a ground wire from the regulator to the negative terminal on the battery for a better ground if it's just grounding to the frame. Then you can use some rubber grommets or rubber barrel gasket material to "rubber mount" the regulator and prevent cracking of the insulator material from vibration. Seemed like good advise so I just did that on my new regulator I put on last summer and all is well so far.
Also put on the LED voltage meter on the handlebar so I know with a glance exactly what my charging system is doing. Cheap fix for peace of mind and cool to glance down and see the lights "dancing" in the green.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ38119
Also put on the LED voltage meter on the handlebar so I know with a glance exactly what my charging system is doing. Cheap fix for peace of mind and cool to glance down and see the lights "dancing" in the green.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/ZZ38119
Last edited by Tactical111; Apr 30, 2011 at 10:15 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Here's an easy, but not scientific way to check out the stator. Most of the time, but not always when the stator fails it will Cook" itself. Open the inspection hole in the outer primary and take a sniff. If the stator is cooked you will smell it. If it just has an open circuit you won't.
This is just a simple way to start checking your system and is not the answer to all problems, but it is a simple start. Also did you check to see if the stator is shorted to ground?? Let us know what you find.
This is just a simple way to start checking your system and is not the answer to all problems, but it is a simple start. Also did you check to see if the stator is shorted to ground?? Let us know what you find.
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