We have some terminology issues here. you say:
bike would turn over but not even try to crank

What does "turn over" mean? What does "crank" mean?

Next, put your new battery on a 1 amp charger overnight. Clean the ground strap connection to the frame. Carefully inspect the battery cables. Pull on the ends to make sure everything is tight.

After that, we'll continue.

 

Turn over as in the starter turning the engine over. Crank meaning to start up I figured the phrase turning over but not cranking was easy to figure out guess not. Maybe you like the word crank as in the engine turning over and start for when it cranks up I probably just talk a lil different should be easy enough to understand now.
As for the grounding I'm 100% sure it's fine I can lay 1 lead from my meter to the ground of the battery and touch any place on the motor and ike and ring it out so there's definitely continuity. That brown stuff I spoke of i'm pretty sure is the problem is where it's melted off the ignition sensor I would like to know what specs as far as resistance etc.. for the ignition sensor and ignition module looking to be one of those going to be the culprit so any more help or any experience with tose two parts would be great

 

charged battery all night and it's totally good

 

I just had the same problem this morning and it also killed the battery. Ran like a top all day and the last 1/4 mi like it was running out of fuel. After charging and ensuring the battery was good and checking ground connections, I put a buddys coil in it and it fired right up. $40 later and it runs like a champ. If you've got juice across the coil id be lookin at a breaker or a failed wire somewhere.

 

There is a process of trouble shooting this. I'm not going to type the steps here due to the fact it's a some what lengthy process. Get a manual and wring this thing out so you can ride it.

Or you can keep shadow boxing and maybe stumble into a fix.

 

Stock ignition?

 

Continuity between the battery negative and the chassis does not necessarily indicate a good connection. Remember that we're talking a lot of amps. However, assuming you have a good ground, now it's cranking (turning over) but not starting, right? And you have brown goo dripping out of the ignition sensor in the cone? That should be replaced. If it's not fried now, it will be shortly regardless. Specs are in the book for testing it, but brown goo is pretty much an indication for replacement. So, that's next. If you don't have a real HD shop manual, buy one while you are getting your ignition pickup.

 

I had something like that happen once on my '95 FLSTC. It turned out that a wire on my ignition switch went bad. After that I put a new ignition switch in so that I could lock it and in a few months my neutral and oil light didn't work. Replaced ignition switch again and it works fine.

Good Luck.