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Intermittent Starting Problem

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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 05:35 AM
  #1  
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Default Intermittent Starting Problem

Hi All.

One I hate, an intermittent electrical problem.
1986 FLSTC, no extra lights, radio or any electrical items added, stock.
To try and explain problem please bear with me as there are a few that started together and I do not really believe in coincidences, so I will start at beginning.

For the past couple of weeks, occasionally, when I pressed starter, nothing. Engine would not turn over, lights didn't dim, all I noticed was that the starter relay under seat clicked. As it was the easiest item to check, got a new one. Same thing, just a click. Not all the time, but enough for me not to travel too far. In fact, on one trip when it would not start I rang my recovery people to collect me, but after about 20 mins the bike started and cancelled them.

Checked wiring and connections under seat, earth at battery etc. All seem ok.
The other day I noticed that my brake light was not working so checked that. Switch ok as it worked if connected to battery, power at connection under seat, but when I connected the wire from the main wiring block to the wire to the light, no go, nothing, even though I was getting a reading from block. So ran a wire from the non-live side of switch to the wire to light and all worked ok, so left this to be legal. Brake light only works with rear break, not front, another problem. I have to say that the volt reading from main block was only about 10V, why I have no Idea.

Finally, (Sorry about this, getting there), LHF indicator not working. Bulb ok, but noticed that when I turn LH indicator on, the head and passing lights flick up and down, not on and off, but dim and bright.

Only other thing I can say is that I have discovered that if I cross the lead from the relay to the battery lead on the starter solenoid on top of engine, bike starts ok. So not the starter and I wont be left on the side of the road.

Now as I said, I don't believe in coincidences, so I am wondering if all are connected in some way?

Sorry about long winded post and I hope I have explained it ok. If anyone has any ideas and want something explained better, let me know.

Thanks for all and any input, I hate not being able to depend on bike.

Cheers.

TC.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 06:27 AM
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miacycles
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What you have is the dreaded 35 year old wiring problem. You will probably have to go through the wiring one wire at a time untill you have checked them all out. As for the brake light, if you have power in and out of the switch the problem is in the wire going back to the brake light, the bulb or the ground. On these older bikes grounds can get corroded and give you problems. If you have a manual use the wiring diagram in the back to help you figure out the problem. There also is a manual just for the electrical/wiring. One tip: Take the wiring diagram to a good copy center and have them enlarge it as big as they can, then have it laminated. This makes it easier to read and follow. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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Thanks for that Mia.

That's what I was afraid off, hate wiring.

Just a thought, (I'm trying to make it simple for myself), as I have a problem with RHF indicator, could it be the switchgear on handlebar as they are both linked, starter switch and indicator switch?

Cheers.

TC
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 07:25 AM
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They are all linked with I believe is an orange power wire. If the rear is working and the front isnt then that's not the problem. Start with the bulb and work back from there. Don't forget to check out the sockets and ground. A good multi-meter is worth its weight in gold when doing this as you can check continuity,etc. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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I you may have an earth problem, usually when other lights start coming on faintly when switches are operated, it is often an earth problem.


You can test by using a length of wire connected to the battery negative/earth post, simply use the other end to apply a direct earth to the light/items not working correctly, and try operating them.

It would be wise to remove, clean and refit all earth/negative connections as it does not take much corrosion to create a high resistance on an electrical connection, which can cause all sorts of strange happenings!

I work with electrical components every day and have owned many old cars and motorcycles, earth issues are common and a good place to start.
When I have rebuilt cars and bikes in the past that have required new wiring, I have made new looms with more earth/negative wires than there would have been originally.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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multimeter...harbor freight 4 bucks, get you manual they have them on cd for 20 bucks. Just check those voltage first, just replace a crapped out regulator, found out my circuit breaker was corroded which in wonderful return fouled my plugs...speedo went out, turnsignals stay on. take the ime spend 24.00 and go fromt hrer you won't regret it and the folks here on this forum are some of the diligent and experienced troubleshooters...Goodluck once you find the problem it sure will feel darn good and you can ride into the fall...
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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Search " Dreaded Click" on here. When my 87 FLHTC stated clicking, I first changed the relay as you did. No good. Next went over all the junction blocks. No good. Next did the dual relay thing. That didn't stop it. Finally I did the solenoid rebuild kit. That fixed it. At least I know everything from the button to the starter has been checked. your 86s solenoid is easy to rebuild and the kit is cheap too. I left the dual relay set up , figured good insurance. With the voltage drops I would check and clean all the connections you can. Good luck
 
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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I had the same problem on my 98 RK. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it just clicked.

I removed the plunger from the starter solenoid, and the copper ring was black and filthy and not making a good contact, so i used a wire wheel on the plunger to make it shiney, and I used some carb cleaner and some sand paper to clean the solenoid side so it was also shiney.

Be sure to disconnect the battery or you will get zapped on the solenoid side.

So far this is working fine now. started the bike dozens of times and rode 500 miles without missing a start.

Also, I replaced the relay since a new one was only 10 bucks, and I cleaned up the old one - it works in the lights so I will keep it as a spare.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Just an up-date.

Sorted front indicator, broken wire at steering head under cowls.

Sorted rear brake light. There was a wire broken off the front brake light switch in the switch-gear on handle bars. Switch was also in sh-1-t. Tried to clean it but lost bloody spring, so just soldered wire back on and re-fitted switch. Rear brake works as normal but front brake switch not operating so have to get one.

So only problem now is still the non starting.

As BB4xl and clettussnow now suggest, reckon it may be solenoid,but a question.

Even though it wont start on switch, if I cross two connections on solenoid, the small one in the middle and the top one, bike fires up ok. If solenoid was dickie, would that work?

Thanks again for help, and also the encouragement to try and sort it and not give in.

Cheers

TC.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Install one of these and when your 25 year old wiring messes up, you can just push the button and start it manually.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-528
 
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