+1 on what Dan said. The EVO "B" lifters are relatively inexpensive, where did you get the lifters from???

 

Well I went back in last night and basically reinstalled the cam and lifters, everything went smooth and the bike started up on the first try. It appears the cam may have been one spline out of alignment but I didnt double check when I took it all apart so lesson learned. I didn't have to adjust the timing at all and she ran great. I am totally happy with the performance everyone here has mentioned with the Andrews EV27 cam and look forward to the twisties this weekend.

I got the lifters in a kit from North Shore Motorcycles on EBAY, I now know I should have gotten the Harley B lifters, but right now cash is tight due to an unexpected hospital stay a few weeks back. I will change the lifters out as soon as I can so the ones I put in will have to work for a little bit. After a 20 mile run last night it appears I don't have any leaks and that is always a good thing.

Thank you everyone that give advice, this forum is great and it is always nice to have people give help to do it yourselfers type riders.

 

Glad to hear all is well!! Don't feel bad we probably get two bikes a year that hve the cam installed a tooth off by the owner. It happens, so take what you've learned and apply it to your next job that's how we all learned, "the hard way!!" LOL

 

I appreciate it, nothing more gratifying than screwing it up the first time only to nail it on the second!

 

Well I have put a few hundred on the bike since the cam swap and very pleased with the results. I have notice d a ticking noise coming from the lifters and wondered if this is normal? I'm positive I adjusted the lifters and pushrods correctly, but hey I'm human so I could be wrong. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Did you bring the engine up to TDC and adjust both valves on that cylinder??? If so that may be your problem. That worked well with the early automobile engines as they had a lot less duration and lift. On the newer performance cams you may have a lifter part way up a ramp. Your lifter has about .200" of travel on average, and the preload from adjusting your pushrods is about .100" or half the travel of the lifter. The cylinders can grow .040" from cold to hot, add to this any loss from the lifter not being on the heel of the cam and you can lose most or all of the preload on the cam. This can be a cause of lifter noise, so we reccomend the following method of adjustment. First put the bike in high gear and rotate the whell forward until the valve to be adjusted just closes. Then put a piece of tape on the bottom of the wheel. Next rotate the wheel forward until the valve starts to open, put another piece of tape on the wheel. Halfway between the two marks will put that lifter on the heel of the cam. Now you can adjust that valve. We usually add a quarter turn or so extra to make up for loss of length when tightening down the pushrods. Hope this helps.

 

Sounds easy enough, do I need to wait for the lifter to pump up again? I have never readjusted a lifter before so I just want to make sure.

Thanks for the advice

 

You need to let them bleed down before going to the next lifter, 15 minutes or until you can spin the pushrod easily. The single pushrod method takes a little longer but we feel it works better.

 

Thank you I will give it a shot and see if it makes a difference.