It isn't the seal , it's the entire cast in steel machined boss the seal seats into that's the issue . Why waste the money & effort on a finger cross effort when it's pretty well written in stone & well documented what the problem is ?

 

The real way to tell where the leak is, first thouroughly clean the area, next pressurize the crankcase to 10-14lbs by making up an adapter from a timing plug. Then you can see if the leak is the seal at the shaft, the seal at the insert, or the insert at the crankcase.
If the leak is at the insert/crankcase they can be repaired, but I've never been happy with the few I've seen, It is best to just get a new case. If you want to stay stock then Harley can supply one with matching numbers. If you want to go bigger then either get a large bore with matching pistons and cylinders. Lastly you could go with a completely new engine. Hope this helps.

 

First off I apologize for the late response guys. Been busy lately but thank you all for the detail responses. I've talked it over with a few mechanics & since it's still very minor now I'm going to go ahead & do the work I had planned then do the cases next year. According to a few mechanics around here one being a master harley of 25 years I won't see any power loss just simpley oil that I'll have to drain from time to time.
I've had it tested & it is the cases not the seal which sucks. I've also called Harley with my VIN & they won't help me. So for now I think I have decided to still to my plan for this year which is seat, paint, cam, bearings, lifters, & push rods. Enjoy the season of 2012 then next income tax I will do the cases if I can afford it for 2kish.
Once again thanks for all the responses. I'm going to look them over again, & bring up some some of what was posted with my mechanic & see if he agree this is the best course of action right now & that I can safely wait til next year.

 

Good for you did your homework your ahead of most then . Only thing I'll add is pay very close attention to the oil thing a couple I knew had it push through very fast suddenly , bike was fine one week and using 3 quarts the next type deal . Also pay close attention to the vibration factor , your bike has it's own " tune " if that's feels like it's changing any take a hard look fast . That boss can work itself around and get looser and that isn't good .

Good luck and keep us posted man .

 

Is there some way of finding out what series of vin numbers from 89 were possibly of the bad lot? Or is it a call to Harley and hope they spill the beans?

 

oh another question guys. I've been looking at engines but all the evo's for my bike are only offered as reman motors which is the most god awful thing in the world from my experience. I have 2 friends that had these motors fail horribly 1 year n a few months after having it & the other about 2 years which after a year the engine has no warranty. So I do not wanna go that route.
That being said will a 1999 new softail 1340 evo fit my frame or can it? It's about $3400 for all black which is what I want which isn't too bad but I was curious if it will actually fit my bike. I much rather keep a true harley engine despite the many flaws lol.

 

I don't know how it works in ohio with engine numbers an stuff but I'd think you could find a mid 90's or newer used engine out of a totaled bike.

 

Well This is way down the line after I pay off my loan for the lifters, cam, bearings & pushrods. I might just study up & disassemble the motor next winter & have it powder coated. I want an entire new look for the bike. It was blue & silver now I'm going for more 0-60 power & classic with a lot of black. After February she's gonna be balck with a white over spray to give it that charcoal look along with two tone of white & harley orange pin stripping. More power in the engine, new charcoal black snake skin seat with orange welts & maybe if we get enough over time a set of black V&V Big Shot Duals.

 

wrong thread