Reviving a 1989 FLHS
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 842
Likes: 47
From: New Hartford CT
Excellent point.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: vienna ga
i got a 89 flhs and went stage one on the motor and added a evl3000 cam also added lots of chrome.she will keep up with no problems and handles very well for a 800lb bike.done the dragon 4 times and no problems.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,193
Likes: 12,774
From: South Carolina
It did not change back in `90 to an earlier configuration.
The change that came about on the crankshaft assemblies in the early `90s was the loose fit pinion gear, instead of the press fit pinion gear.
The `89 pinion shaft was supported by a dual row roller bearing, and the outer race only had a single oil supply hole, which was later changed to a single row roller bearing, and an outer race with for oil supply holes.
The weak point on the `89 was not the crankshaft, but the (Pinion) bearing configuration.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 15,402
Likes: 19,496
From: Upstate N.Y.-Rochester Area
Update: It's begun
Following the advice from grbrown, and also my indy, I've decided to order the True-Track to fit my existing swing-arm. New shocks and fork Springs as well, and my concession to performance this year will be to upgrade to a CV Carb set-up and free flow air intake. (Stage 1? My pipes had been previously slightly opened up to let more air through by the previous owner. Not the same as tuned pipes, but my indy said , let's see what we have before we order anything else.)
In addition my primary chain and sprocket will be looked at and most likely replaced, Link belt and pulley's to be inspected and probably also replaced. I'm pretty sure that all is original and even if still serviceable I suspect it will be a smart move to replace them while "in the area."
I'm not a "Stoplight to Stoplight" guy, this is a bagger after all, so if parts get replaced in this area I'm going to attempt to get a 5-10% engine speed reduction ratio to take advantage of this years and next years performance related changes.
Wish that I could do all my mods this year, but I'm told that PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE. Can't do otherwise, and I've never had a virtue before..
In addition my primary chain and sprocket will be looked at and most likely replaced, Link belt and pulley's to be inspected and probably also replaced. I'm pretty sure that all is original and even if still serviceable I suspect it will be a smart move to replace them while "in the area."
I'm not a "Stoplight to Stoplight" guy, this is a bagger after all, so if parts get replaced in this area I'm going to attempt to get a 5-10% engine speed reduction ratio to take advantage of this years and next years performance related changes.
Wish that I could do all my mods this year, but I'm told that PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE. Can't do otherwise, and I've never had a virtue before..
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 842
Likes: 47
From: New Hartford CT
I recommend the True Track 'Trackula' kit as it has everything you need in one package.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
My 1995 Electra Glide Ultra has 50k and I had Andrews 27 cams with adjustable pushrods installed at 35k. She has Rinehart Tru Duals and runs like at top. Not sure all the differences between an 89 and a 95 but I agree with most everyone...EVO's are solid and tough. This is my 4th and all ran great with regular maintenance. Only thing done outside of routine maintenance to my EG is a voltage regulator and new front rocker box gasket. Other than cams and exhaust...pretty much stock. Good luck with the upgrades...it's fun making it your own. I ripped the tour pack off mine, put lowering air shocks, new CD Mp3 player and made it a 1995 Street Glide.
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 15,402
Likes: 19,496
From: Upstate N.Y.-Rochester Area
1989 flhs
I don't have any real complaints, my bike starts and runs well, and it seems strong. But it feels mushy in curves, and it mostly sat for a few years prior to my purchase. Though it did get started, and the oil changed yearly so I wasn't too worried when I bought it.
Once I got it running and flushed out with new gas/oil/filters/plugs, etc., it blew "blue" smoke when running that never stopped even after putting 5k miles on her. Though less pronounced I do still get a bit of blue even now.
The leak down results suggested valve issues, but my indy told me to keep running it and take care of other issues 1st, since I can't do everything at once.
grbrown, Slim, Hatchetman, 1997bagger, and many others through several different posts have helped me sort through and zero in on the "Do me first" changes.
This year mostly handling, some drive system maintenance, and stage 1 items. My engine internals will be next years focus. The decision is still out on the exhaust, but I sure do like a couple of the true dual styles.
Next year I'm definitely going to get the heads reworked, put in a new cam, lifters, rollers, and boost the compression. My indy prefers pistons to head shaving, I'll decide once the jugs are examined, if it's a rebore I'll be getting pistons anyway, if it's merely a hone and re-ring it's a tougher call.
Once I got it running and flushed out with new gas/oil/filters/plugs, etc., it blew "blue" smoke when running that never stopped even after putting 5k miles on her. Though less pronounced I do still get a bit of blue even now.
The leak down results suggested valve issues, but my indy told me to keep running it and take care of other issues 1st, since I can't do everything at once.
grbrown, Slim, Hatchetman, 1997bagger, and many others through several different posts have helped me sort through and zero in on the "Do me first" changes.
This year mostly handling, some drive system maintenance, and stage 1 items. My engine internals will be next years focus. The decision is still out on the exhaust, but I sure do like a couple of the true dual styles.
Next year I'm definitely going to get the heads reworked, put in a new cam, lifters, rollers, and boost the compression. My indy prefers pistons to head shaving, I'll decide once the jugs are examined, if it's a rebore I'll be getting pistons anyway, if it's merely a hone and re-ring it's a tougher call.
Last edited by RaSh; Feb 15, 2012 at 05:14 PM. Reason: clarity
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 18
From: Beautiful SW Missouri Ozark Mountain Country
I talked to a mechanic today that used to work for an HD dealership in Eastern Iowa and SW Missouri. He owns his own shop now and has been riding HD's for 50 years. He said to make sure the front motor mount is solid too. He says that a bad motor mount can also lead to a mushy feeling when cornering.
BTW what is an "indy?"
BTW what is an "indy?"
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I talked to a mechanic today that used to work for an HD dealership in Eastern Iowa and SW Missouri. He owns his own shop now and has been riding HD's for 50 years. He said to make sure the front motor mount is solid too. He says that a bad motor mount can also lead to a mushy feeling when cornering.
BTW what is an "indy?"
BTW what is an "indy?"
We have mentioned the Trackula kit several times, which includes new front as well as rear mounts. It really does do everything a chap could possibly want, in one package!