Reviving a 1989 FLHS
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 15,402
Likes: 19,511
From: Upstate N.Y.-Rochester Area
Reviving a 1989 FLHS
Hello everyone, I'm fairly new here, and apparently I'm going to be a problem, I'm already starting out with a long missive and request for help and advice. Since I was in danger of stealing the WHAT KIND OF NUMBERS.... Thread by irydasteelhorse I decided to open a new thread here.
The Background: I have a 1989 FLHS with 54k miles. The bike wasnt abused by the previous owner, but it was a rider and not a showpiece and it shows her age. Also, due to the declining health of the previous owner, upkeep/maintenance had been haphazard and the bike sat unattended for long periods of time. Since it wasnt driven much the yearly oil changes done by the owners brother was adequate, but it was seldom started and run in between. Lots of sitting in place
With this in mind, last year, my first year of ownership, was for coaxing her back into a road worthy bike. A new AGM battery, everything drained, flushed and refilled. Dropped the (Old Style) Keinin carb and cleaned it out, new air filter, plugs. Same with the tank, oil & Filter, checked lights, set brakes, adjusted everything, replaced a scratched up window shield (Another Left turn casualty.) And started searching for replacement Chrome. (Right side rear and the engine/front Crash Bars, Light bezels and the like)
After that initial going over, the bike was put on the road and run to determine if anything bad was present. I put a bit over 1k miles on it, decided that there wasnt much wrong with it other than cosmetics and also that the engine needing a freshening, and brought it in to a well regarded Indy who was familiar with the bike for the 50K check-up.
As a result of his knowledgeable attention a few additional worn parts were replaced and I now had confidence that it was thoroughly looked over by a skilled professional. The replaced parts included new rubber, a couple brake shoes, Clutch cable, warped derby cover, Belt stone guard, a correct tune-up & adjustments settings, and the like. Money well spent.
And in deference to the realities of driving today and the bike road rash damage I did install a headlight beam modulator, and upgraded the rear signals/taillight module to be more Lit up and more noticeable with an add-on module for the wiring controls.
No doubt some will want to chime in with questions about cost/effort vs. utility and Ill just state that I am keeping this bike, and that it is worth it to me to spend the time and money to restore it to some of its former glory. It isnt my intention to make it showroom quality again. Im looking to make this a Not shabby reliable rider.
As previously noted the motor is getting tired but it is wearing down evenly and my Indy said that I have some time before it HAS to be done, just keep the oil changed and dont pound it into the ground.
With that in mind this years plan is to continue to replace the road rash blemished items, restore some of the paint, work on the suspension, (new Progressive shocks on the rear, and Replacement Progressive springs in the forks. In addition Ill be adding a true-track link, and at the right time to also replace the swing arm bushings, and motor mounts.), and to upgrade to a 40mm CV carb. I have a decent unmolested carb in hand, and an EVO CV manifold on its way, I dont have all the other connectors, the choke cable, any idea on how the cables are going to be set-up or the parts to do so. Nor do I yet have a CV intake. I was advised to try to locate a Screaming Eagle Intake Kit (#20946-88A for most of these parts.) Any advice from folks experienced with this change would be appreciated.
I believe that polishing of the carb throats, and also the vacuum piston and track is recommended, as is a needle and jet change, even for stock engines.
The original pipes have already been opened up to Let some more air through it and I will weigh the possibility of upgrading to a true dual, or Sampson set up at a later date. (Yes, I know that a 2 into 1 is more efficient. Bit for me a bagger needs duals.) Essentially I will have a Stage 1 on the original (worn) Engine at this point, along with a cleaned-up bike with an improved suspension.
I also have a broken Odometer **** shaft that Id like to repair but Im told that this is a replacement of the instrument group situation. Ouch!
In addition there is one recommended potential suspension change that I do not know how to "grade". I have been told that it may be beneficial to upgrade my swing-arm for a 2002 or newer version, especially the 2007/2008 examples due to superior construction (Less flex.), and the fact that some older year versions (like mine) have cracked in use.
Unless I hear differently Im also on the hunt for a newer swing arm, and would do this upgrade at the next tire change which will most likely coincide with an engine freshening/upgrade if the decision is made to keep the bike.
But I sure would appreciate hearing from other forum members about the swing arm change. Worth it? Or not?
Which brings me to next years winter layover plans?
After this upcoming season, I expect to be into the 60k mile range +, and will by that time have sufficient saddle time to know if the bike is solid, if the suspension mods provide the added stability that I am seeking, and if I still am as thrilled with the bike as I am right now. It will be decision time, either put some money into the motor and keep her, or determine that it is time to move on.
However I suspect that I will be keeping the bike, and with that in mind here are my plans for that phase of my ownership.
Next winters work: Cam upgrade, probably an Andrews 13 or similar, Hone cylinders & re-ring pistons (or replace as needed.), Headwork (Port-Polish, valves/springs), lifters, pushrods. A metal breather gear replacement since the work will require that the engine is breached anyway. New bearings will be installed along the way as parts are replaced cheap insurance. Have primary chain checked for stretch.
At this point perhaps another needle and Jet change for the CV carb.
Verdict is still out on the crank/rods. . H-D lore is that the 1989-1990 assemblies are weak; if I replace them I'll probably do a Stroker upgrade. But the upgrade parts for this are $1600! Plus installation $, another OUCH!
Makes this a tough decision.
When done, depending on results, I may consider a pulley ratio change to drop engine rpm at speed if the power is there, along with a new belt.
Since my interest is in having a decent looking, reliable, not finicky rider I have to keep things into perspective and at some point things become Stupid Money, and I don't want to go there.
Am I missing anything? Am I just plain wrong on any of this? Is any of this more difficullt than one would expect? I'm fairly good with mechanical things, but will readily bow down to those that are really skilled. All input and opinions will be appreciated, Thanks.
The Background: I have a 1989 FLHS with 54k miles. The bike wasnt abused by the previous owner, but it was a rider and not a showpiece and it shows her age. Also, due to the declining health of the previous owner, upkeep/maintenance had been haphazard and the bike sat unattended for long periods of time. Since it wasnt driven much the yearly oil changes done by the owners brother was adequate, but it was seldom started and run in between. Lots of sitting in place
With this in mind, last year, my first year of ownership, was for coaxing her back into a road worthy bike. A new AGM battery, everything drained, flushed and refilled. Dropped the (Old Style) Keinin carb and cleaned it out, new air filter, plugs. Same with the tank, oil & Filter, checked lights, set brakes, adjusted everything, replaced a scratched up window shield (Another Left turn casualty.) And started searching for replacement Chrome. (Right side rear and the engine/front Crash Bars, Light bezels and the like)
After that initial going over, the bike was put on the road and run to determine if anything bad was present. I put a bit over 1k miles on it, decided that there wasnt much wrong with it other than cosmetics and also that the engine needing a freshening, and brought it in to a well regarded Indy who was familiar with the bike for the 50K check-up.
As a result of his knowledgeable attention a few additional worn parts were replaced and I now had confidence that it was thoroughly looked over by a skilled professional. The replaced parts included new rubber, a couple brake shoes, Clutch cable, warped derby cover, Belt stone guard, a correct tune-up & adjustments settings, and the like. Money well spent.
And in deference to the realities of driving today and the bike road rash damage I did install a headlight beam modulator, and upgraded the rear signals/taillight module to be more Lit up and more noticeable with an add-on module for the wiring controls.
No doubt some will want to chime in with questions about cost/effort vs. utility and Ill just state that I am keeping this bike, and that it is worth it to me to spend the time and money to restore it to some of its former glory. It isnt my intention to make it showroom quality again. Im looking to make this a Not shabby reliable rider.
As previously noted the motor is getting tired but it is wearing down evenly and my Indy said that I have some time before it HAS to be done, just keep the oil changed and dont pound it into the ground.
With that in mind this years plan is to continue to replace the road rash blemished items, restore some of the paint, work on the suspension, (new Progressive shocks on the rear, and Replacement Progressive springs in the forks. In addition Ill be adding a true-track link, and at the right time to also replace the swing arm bushings, and motor mounts.), and to upgrade to a 40mm CV carb. I have a decent unmolested carb in hand, and an EVO CV manifold on its way, I dont have all the other connectors, the choke cable, any idea on how the cables are going to be set-up or the parts to do so. Nor do I yet have a CV intake. I was advised to try to locate a Screaming Eagle Intake Kit (#20946-88A for most of these parts.) Any advice from folks experienced with this change would be appreciated.
I believe that polishing of the carb throats, and also the vacuum piston and track is recommended, as is a needle and jet change, even for stock engines.
The original pipes have already been opened up to Let some more air through it and I will weigh the possibility of upgrading to a true dual, or Sampson set up at a later date. (Yes, I know that a 2 into 1 is more efficient. Bit for me a bagger needs duals.) Essentially I will have a Stage 1 on the original (worn) Engine at this point, along with a cleaned-up bike with an improved suspension.
I also have a broken Odometer **** shaft that Id like to repair but Im told that this is a replacement of the instrument group situation. Ouch!
In addition there is one recommended potential suspension change that I do not know how to "grade". I have been told that it may be beneficial to upgrade my swing-arm for a 2002 or newer version, especially the 2007/2008 examples due to superior construction (Less flex.), and the fact that some older year versions (like mine) have cracked in use.
Unless I hear differently Im also on the hunt for a newer swing arm, and would do this upgrade at the next tire change which will most likely coincide with an engine freshening/upgrade if the decision is made to keep the bike.
But I sure would appreciate hearing from other forum members about the swing arm change. Worth it? Or not?
Which brings me to next years winter layover plans?
After this upcoming season, I expect to be into the 60k mile range +, and will by that time have sufficient saddle time to know if the bike is solid, if the suspension mods provide the added stability that I am seeking, and if I still am as thrilled with the bike as I am right now. It will be decision time, either put some money into the motor and keep her, or determine that it is time to move on.
However I suspect that I will be keeping the bike, and with that in mind here are my plans for that phase of my ownership.
Next winters work: Cam upgrade, probably an Andrews 13 or similar, Hone cylinders & re-ring pistons (or replace as needed.), Headwork (Port-Polish, valves/springs), lifters, pushrods. A metal breather gear replacement since the work will require that the engine is breached anyway. New bearings will be installed along the way as parts are replaced cheap insurance. Have primary chain checked for stretch.
At this point perhaps another needle and Jet change for the CV carb.
Verdict is still out on the crank/rods. . H-D lore is that the 1989-1990 assemblies are weak; if I replace them I'll probably do a Stroker upgrade. But the upgrade parts for this are $1600! Plus installation $, another OUCH!
Makes this a tough decision.
When done, depending on results, I may consider a pulley ratio change to drop engine rpm at speed if the power is there, along with a new belt.
Since my interest is in having a decent looking, reliable, not finicky rider I have to keep things into perspective and at some point things become Stupid Money, and I don't want to go there.
Am I missing anything? Am I just plain wrong on any of this? Is any of this more difficullt than one would expect? I'm fairly good with mechanical things, but will readily bow down to those that are really skilled. All input and opinions will be appreciated, Thanks.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,201
Likes: 12,786
From: South Carolina
What makes you think the engine is tired? 50K is not high mileage for an Evo...
A compression check and leak down will tell the real story.
When you change out that old butterfly Keihin carb to a CV you will see the engine come to life...
The crank and rods weak on `89-`90? That`s a new one to me.
Weak points on `89 were on some crankcases.
Some rocker covers made in `89 were prone to warp so bad that they could not keep oil in (mine warped badly).
Your bike has the old front pulley/nut/lock configuration, that was notorious for coming loose. If you go into that area for any reason, you should think about upgrading with the later model parts.
If your engine still has the original lifters, it is time to change them.
The early Evo lifters had problems with failure of the rollers, especially when used with a high performance cam. New Harley lifters will give you good service, and they were improved (around `94) to help eliminate the roller failure issue.
A compression check and leak down will tell the real story.
When you change out that old butterfly Keihin carb to a CV you will see the engine come to life...
The crank and rods weak on `89-`90? That`s a new one to me.
Weak points on `89 were on some crankcases.
Some rocker covers made in `89 were prone to warp so bad that they could not keep oil in (mine warped badly).
Your bike has the old front pulley/nut/lock configuration, that was notorious for coming loose. If you go into that area for any reason, you should think about upgrading with the later model parts.
If your engine still has the original lifters, it is time to change them.
The early Evo lifters had problems with failure of the rollers, especially when used with a high performance cam. New Harley lifters will give you good service, and they were improved (around `94) to help eliminate the roller failure issue.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
yes, that motor has a long way to go if it is anywhere near average.
long post and it's late, my eyes are spinning...
cv carb mounts up to the old manifold with a $12 mikuni spigot adapter.
you need 2 new throttle cables.
the enricher should mount right where the choke is now.
the common mod as outlined at nightrider.com works great- couple hours fiddling around and $20 in parts
I swapped my 88 to a CV with 4 HP gained on the swap ( before and after dyno runs) and that was before tuning and modding the carb
I have a new in box speedo for your bike if that's what you need to fix the odometer-
in terms of mods, the farther you go from stock the shorter it's life will be.
free flowing intake, some pipes and maybe a mild bolt in cam ( requiring no headwork), either screaming eagle, or sportster ignition ( to raise the rev limit) or the crane Hi4E is very good too.
that's all you really need and doesn't cost much either
mike
long post and it's late, my eyes are spinning...
cv carb mounts up to the old manifold with a $12 mikuni spigot adapter.
you need 2 new throttle cables.
the enricher should mount right where the choke is now.
the common mod as outlined at nightrider.com works great- couple hours fiddling around and $20 in parts
I swapped my 88 to a CV with 4 HP gained on the swap ( before and after dyno runs) and that was before tuning and modding the carb
I have a new in box speedo for your bike if that's what you need to fix the odometer-
in terms of mods, the farther you go from stock the shorter it's life will be.
free flowing intake, some pipes and maybe a mild bolt in cam ( requiring no headwork), either screaming eagle, or sportster ignition ( to raise the rev limit) or the crane Hi4E is very good too.
that's all you really need and doesn't cost much either
mike
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
On the subject of fitting a later swingarm, I have done that to my 1990 FLHS and covered it in a couple of threads, starting here. Get yourself a long drink before sitting down to read it!
I strongly recommend reconsidering your suspension mods, stretching things out if need be to afford things. Ohlins from HDF sponsor Motorcycle Metal will transform your ride. Use single rate matched springs in your forks, not progressive rate ones. I also have a True-Track kit and they are quite remarkable!
I strongly recommend reconsidering your suspension mods, stretching things out if need be to afford things. Ohlins from HDF sponsor Motorcycle Metal will transform your ride. Use single rate matched springs in your forks, not progressive rate ones. I also have a True-Track kit and they are quite remarkable!
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 842
Likes: 47
From: New Hartford CT
If you get the True Track 'Trackula' kit it includes new bronze swingarm bushings and all new motor mounts. A very worthwhile investment.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Sounds like you have an old gem that'll be a nice project, and if your anything like many of EVO owners you will give it an upgrade or improvement every winter.
On the note of the cranks of the 89 I have read in here and other places that Harley had changed the cranks with poor long haul road test and went back to the original crank in 90. I've researched about crank failures as I and the wife both have 89's but can't say I've found any evidence.
On the note of the cranks of the 89 I have read in here and other places that Harley had changed the cranks with poor long haul road test and went back to the original crank in 90. I've researched about crank failures as I and the wife both have 89's but can't say I've found any evidence.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,885
Likes: 0
From: Chicago area
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
RaSh, if you decide to fit a later swingarm AND a True-Track, contact them as they may be able to supply the correct parts. The reason for saying that is the later swingarm bushings are different to early ones as also is the swingarm axle and you will need bushings to adapt the two.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 15,402
Likes: 19,511
From: Upstate N.Y.-Rochester Area
It is a long post, Sorry everyone.
OPPIRS: Boiled down it's a Chicken or egg question.
My bike feeels mushy to me, first big bike, and when I ride with my friends (Modern dyna and sportie's) I struggle to keep up, straight-a-ways and corners.
I'm keeping this bike, will probably always struggle even when done, but I want to make improvements to make it less of a problem to keep up.
It's going to be a multi-year process, so the prime question boils down to what comes first? Handling or Power.
At this point I think that my best approach is suspension up to and maybe including the Swing Arm upgrade (Thanks for the report grbrown, still weighing cost/effort vs, results.), and I'll take the low hanging fruit and do the CV Carb, free flow air cleaner this year as well.
I sure would like to hear from more folks that have gone the same path that I am contemplating.
Again thanks for your attention and response. This is a great forum for us to pick brains and learn experiences.
OPPIRS: Boiled down it's a Chicken or egg question.
My bike feeels mushy to me, first big bike, and when I ride with my friends (Modern dyna and sportie's) I struggle to keep up, straight-a-ways and corners.
I'm keeping this bike, will probably always struggle even when done, but I want to make improvements to make it less of a problem to keep up.
It's going to be a multi-year process, so the prime question boils down to what comes first? Handling or Power.
At this point I think that my best approach is suspension up to and maybe including the Swing Arm upgrade (Thanks for the report grbrown, still weighing cost/effort vs, results.), and I'll take the low hanging fruit and do the CV Carb, free flow air cleaner this year as well.
I sure would like to hear from more folks that have gone the same path that I am contemplating.
Again thanks for your attention and response. This is a great forum for us to pick brains and learn experiences.
Last edited by RaSh; Feb 9, 2012 at 10:04 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Handling. If your swingarm is in good shape, fit a Trackula, as already suggested. Or replace it with a later one and a Trackula! If you increase engine performance it will make your handling problem worst!