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use the James base gasket in conjunction with the Hayden oil fix, it will be considered a permanent fix.. if not than there are other problems in play. I always love it when someone says they had a James head gasket that failed but fail to further explain that they also fired her off and took off cold. MLS gaskets are great if your working with new or refinished parts, make sure that both surfaces are clean and have no gouges or scratch's (just like any other gasket install mind you) check for flatness (yes i know that's not a technical term) and you should be good to go. our motors arn't sealing tight until they are fully warm... remember that.
our motors arn't sealing tight until they are fully warm... remember that.
Yea, I was getting ready for a test ride, and goosing the throttle a bit, NGH (gent I bought her from) quickly told me about the warm up thing. Fortunately. Wizard (bike was stored in his garage) had already warmed her up while I was there.
Yea, I was getting ready for a test ride, and goosing the throttle a bit, NGH (gent I bought her from) quickly told me about the warm up thing. Fortunately. Wizard (bike was stored in his garage) had already warmed her up while I was there.
Yep - Evos are very sensitive to being FULLY warmed up before you blast them. NEVER goose a cold Evo engine! Don't even get on it and start your ride until the rocker box covers are very warm, almost too hot to touch. About a 5 minute warm-up period should be plenty, unless it's super-cold outside... in which case I wouldn't be riding anyway!
The gaskets and gasket sealing surfaces on Evos are flat - they do not have O-rings at the cylinder base like TCs do - so it's easy to blow out a base gasket before the aluminum cylinders and heads have fully warmed up, expanded, and sealed up the gaskets well.
You got lucky at Dave's that day! He knew Bertha needed warming up, and he was protecting both of us!
Don't even get on it and start your ride until the rocker box covers are very warm, almost too hot to touch.
I disagree...As long as you don`t twist the throttle too much, there is no reason you can`t ride as soon as the bike is started up. No reason to sit in the driveway until the bike is warm.
Do you guys recommend adjustable pushrods? And what about lifters? I heard that they should be changed every 25K.
Doesn't the oil fix come with base gaskets?
Im have to make the same repairs, so I want to make sure my ducks are in a row also.
If your doing the upgrades i mentioned, then yes adjustable pushrods and new lifters should be done with the cam swap. I am not very familiar with what type of gasket comes with "the fix" but if it comes with paper gaskets, then use james metal gaskets instead and you should be leak/seep free
I always love it when someone says they had a James head gasket that failed but fail to further explain that they also fired her off and took off cold.
I didn't say that because that was not what happened. I have always let the motor warm up. Which is one of the reasons I was extremely puzzled when the gasket blew. Not to mention pissed off once the head came off and damage was visible to both head and cylinder. I'm not blaming the James gasket, but when it went back together I used a Cometic gasket set.
RivercitySlim, please don't take that like I'm attacking you. there are plenty out there that blame the gasket when it comes to their own stupidity. there was visable damage you say, so how long was the bike ridden after the head gasket was blown? I know a guy who had a head gasket blow on him instead of pull over and have it flatbed'd home he railed on it all the way home and then expected the mechanic who did the work to fix it after he destroyed his head, piston and cylinder.. there are all types in every hobby, but there seems to be an awful large amount of this type in our hobby. Again I'm not attacking you River, was just venting my annoyance with the gorilla types in our hobby
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