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I had something similar last year and thought "oh no, starter", but it turned out to be the mechanical ignition switch.
Bike would not start when switch in second position, (lights on), but would start no problem in first position.
I know you said your connections were cleaned, and your confident you have good connections ... I think you missed finding and cleaning some of the primary wiring connections that are not part of the solenoid, or starter connections.
It's often a ground lead to the frame that corrodes and gives you on and off issues. That puff of smoke was generated by a corroded connection being hit with high cranking amp draw.
Too many times it the connections on the battery .... did you take those off and clean them?
I would also consider having the battery load tested at a nearby auto parts store.
It may well be worn, or loosened windings in the starter, or the brushes (they will puff smoke too). Also when starters go bad they are worse creating a higher amount of resistance when heated.
I always start with the easy stuff so go trace down those hidden ground straps and clean any you hadn't done already.
Looking forward to hearing what it is so be certain to come back and tell us .... cause some don't.
I had something similar last year and thought "oh no, starter", but it turned out to be the mechanical ignition switch.
Bike would not start when switch in second position, (lights on), but would start no problem in first position.
Same in both lights on and lights off positions.. but if you know how to bypass that entire switch circuit, I could test it to be sure.
Originally Posted by JohnnyC
I think you missed finding and cleaning some of the primary wiring connections that are not part of the solenoid, or starter connections.
I will go back and recheck
Originally Posted by JohnnyC
Too many times it the connections on the battery .... did you take those off and clean them?
Yep, battery leads are clean and failry new.
Originally Posted by JohnnyC
I would also consider having the battery load tested at a nearby auto parts store.
If you take "dash" off you can see where the live comes in and also the output for the lights on position so just jump them.
Also, if your solenoid is same as mine,ie, it is on clutch side just above inspection cover pointing forward, remove end cover and jump the connections. I cannot remember which two terminals to jump, but trial and error will sort it out. This will confirm or eliminate starter trouble. I would do this before removing dash.
As johnnyc says, start with the simple stuff and work back..........
If i understand correctly ... you have a quarter of a million miles on this bike after a couple of rebuilds ??
If so i would suggest you pull the starter and service it .
The brushes alone would surely need replacing by now .!
If i understand correctly ... you have a quarter of a million miles on this bike after a couple of rebuilds ??
If so i would suggest you pull the starter and service it .
The brushes alone would surely need replacing by now .!
Yep. She has been a great bike. I may have had this starter service done before, but as you said, probably in need of it again.
Had to think about that for a bit, wow a quarter million miles. I would have loved to have had an evo brand new off the floor. I'm a true belleiver in a one owner vehicle, its such a world of differnce.Last year I picked up a 89 heritage softail for my wife ( I just ride it once in a while to make sure everything is ok ) and it was from a one owner that had traded it back in to the original shop that he bought it from.
Last edited by RidemyEVO; Mar 10, 2012 at 10:12 AM.
So I started checking anc cleaning connections (AGAIN), and the problem seems to have temporarily gone away...
I hate issues like this.
Stay tuned. I will be ordering parts to rebuild starter and will be replacing all my battery cables again. The primary gasket is leaking anyway.. so what the hell!
I had a similar issue and tracked it down to the connection in the ignition switch on the tank. I've had other starter issues of course but most were a relay or a bad connection somwhere on a ground wire.
Could it be as simple as corrosion in the handle bar switch? Granted it triggers the solenoid / relay but, corrosion there may mean intermittent contact causing intermittent relay engagement.
Just another passing thought. I know some have had issues with the kill button corroding too.
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