Hard to say....We don`t know what you are working on...

 

Oops 😬 forgot that minor detail. ‘86 fxrs 1340cc 5spd

 

It might. You can take something and short the big terminal on the solenoid (+12 from the battery) to the little terminal (where the wire from the starter button goes) and if it cranks over, then an additional relay will probably fix you up. If it doesn't, you have some other problem. Be careful when doing this. I bought a small adjustable wrench and duct taped the crap out of it leaving only the tips of the ends exposed, adjusted for the distance between the 2 terminals. It will get you started if you have The Dreaded Click out on the road. Make sure the bike is in neutral, etc.

 

No reason to add another relay on that bike, just run a fused wire from the main breaker to terminal 30 on the starter relay.

That will provide a good path for current, instead of the convoluted path it takes on the OEM configuration, which invites all kinds of opportunities for voltage drop.

But first the basics:

Charge battery, have it load tested.

Remove battery cables, clean the terminals.

If that doesn`t resolve the issue, it will be time for you to get out the voltmeter and take some readings....

 

I don't think you can run the wire like that on an 86 FXR, Dan. You certainly can't on a FLHT, and I think they are wired the same. Softails are different.

 

I looked at the schematic before I suggested it.

In the stock wiring configuration, the power to pin 30 of the starter relay comes from the accessory breaker, which comes from a convoluted path from the main, switch, connectors, ignition breaker, through a buss bar to the accessory breaker.

The only bikes that really need a second relay are the ones that use the starter relay to power the headlights.

On those models the headlights are powered by the starter relay pin 87 (this setup will kill power to the headlights when the starter is engaged).

You can`t power these bikes start relay from a constant power source, because the headlights would have power even when the ignition switch was off, that is the reason for adding a second relay.

 

Yeah, but if you put constant power on that pin 30, which is connected to the accessory breaker, you wind up with the entire bike having power all the time as it will feed back through.

That convoluted path is the reason The Dreaded Click happens. I think I once counted 13 connections between the battery and the solenoid. Some of them are very cheesy, like the orange wire coming off the ignition switch.

 

That would only happen if you spliced into the wire going to pin 30.
It won't happen if you disconnect the existing wire from pin 30 then run a new one with a new connector to pin 30.
Or cut the wire completely and only splice onto the side that goes to pin 30.
In either of the above solutions you have to insulate the wire on the harness side so that you don't get a short when you turn on the ignition.

 

The bike being discussed does not have the headlights connected to the start relay, so a second relay is not needed, it just needs a better source of power to pin 30.

Simply connect a fused wire from the main breaker to pin 30 on the start relay.

But that is probably not what the problem is on this bike, it is an issue with the starter circuit itself, somewhere between the + post on the battery, through the + cable, solenoid, and back through ground to the - post on battery.

Easy to find where the issue is using a voltmeter.

 

Hey y’all!!! I changed the battery with a scorpion battery that is rated for 310CCA and it turned right over!!! Now it’s running and I took it for a spin and the clutch didn’t have any tension after less than 5 minutes of driving. Now onto the next problem... starts up first time every time!!