'95 Electra Glide
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
Bit of an update for anyone interested..
Its 1735 out of 2000..
I took inventory of the parts and its not all that I was hoping.. The guys who worked on it werent exactly up to my standards.. The case had been repaired with, most likely, a heli-coil first as they told me.. But, they ended up using a thread sert with tap in anchors and a time sert in another hole.. Both of the inserts had issues that caused the cracks.. Apparently not a common repair for these guys, just wish I'd have been told the whole story.. Anyhow, I'm to the point that I'm exploring options..I've got a buddy who thinks he can weld the holes back up and we can re-bore and tap, like a "new" case(maybe).... I can get a proper case with VIN from tri-state HD in Ohio for $700 with the 20% discount they offer, what a great deal for them to pass on, I've got to give them props whether I use them or not.. Normal price is about $900... With the new cases, I'll still need lifters, rings, push rods, gaskets, etc.... All stuff I thought was included (my fault for not going through everything
). Anyhow, for a little more, I could get a complete, running, engine... Or, drop the $6k for an S&S............ Making some decisions now.... Still open to opinion.. Here's some mor eporn for you guys..
Its 1735 out of 2000..
I took inventory of the parts and its not all that I was hoping.. The guys who worked on it werent exactly up to my standards.. The case had been repaired with, most likely, a heli-coil first as they told me.. But, they ended up using a thread sert with tap in anchors and a time sert in another hole.. Both of the inserts had issues that caused the cracks.. Apparently not a common repair for these guys, just wish I'd have been told the whole story.. Anyhow, I'm to the point that I'm exploring options..I've got a buddy who thinks he can weld the holes back up and we can re-bore and tap, like a "new" case(maybe).... I can get a proper case with VIN from tri-state HD in Ohio for $700 with the 20% discount they offer, what a great deal for them to pass on, I've got to give them props whether I use them or not.. Normal price is about $900... With the new cases, I'll still need lifters, rings, push rods, gaskets, etc.... All stuff I thought was included (my fault for not going through everything
). Anyhow, for a little more, I could get a complete, running, engine... Or, drop the $6k for an S&S............ Making some decisions now.... Still open to opinion.. Here's some mor eporn for you guys..
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
Its a done deal, I ended up giving $5k for it.. So, everything I have seen, suggests its an $8k bike.. Lots of guys asking $9+ for '95s too... I dont think I got a screaming deal. But, even with a used engine, I think I still came out pretty good.. This thing is REALLY clean... If i went S&S, I'd be in it for 11-12, which I think is too much..
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Its a done deal, I ended up giving $5k for it.. So, everything I have seen, suggests its an $8k bike.. Lots of guys asking $9+ for '95s too... I dont think I got a screaming deal. But, even with a used engine, I think I still came out pretty good.. This thing is REALLY clean... If i went S&S, I'd be in it for 11-12, which I think is too much..
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
1995 was the first year for EFI and only certain models got it. There wasn't awhole lot!
The 1995/1996 ECM could not be flashed. If you want any upgrade, you'll need the ECM from a 1997/1998 as these could be flashed.
That was the only real issue with the very first models....the ECM.
The 1995/1996 ECM could not be flashed. If you want any upgrade, you'll need the ECM from a 1997/1998 as these could be flashed.
That was the only real issue with the very first models....the ECM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,237
Likes: 799
From: Indiana
Its a done deal, I ended up giving $5k for it.. So, everything I have seen, suggests its an $8k bike.. Lots of guys asking $9+ for '95s too... I dont think I got a screaming deal. But, even with a used engine, I think I still came out pretty good.. This thing is REALLY clean... If i went S&S, I'd be in it for 11-12, which I think is too much..
Wouldn't the old engine parts be worth a something to someone?
That is a beautiful bike, and I would LOVE to have a touring AND cruiser ride like you could have.
Graham's suggestion of the S&S..........OH BABY!!!!!!!
Last edited by traildog; May 28, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
Yea, I've been kicking some of that around.. I'm going to get it on the road then asess what I have left over.. Being that I have 2-EVO's now, I'm getting the feeling that an extra set of heads, cylinders and crank would be nice to keep around..... We'll see I guess.. The big thing now is getting it running.. Each day this weekend, I've been missing something after everyone is closed.. Had do ride my Dyna 150mi yesterday to get some bolts
and today, I need to see ifI can find a crank seal.. I'm hoping the local dealer is open, they normaly are on Monday, but may not be for Memorial day.. That S&S would be awesome.. John mentioned a Fatvo option from Sputhe too.. Check it out when you get a chance, thats pretty impressive too...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,237
Likes: 799
From: Indiana
Don't ya HATE when that happens.....wifey said we needed chinet plates for the cookout today.........passed up the local store by mistake 
..... rode for an hour........................
..... rode for an hour........................
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
OK fella's... Got an update and a couple of questions....
Long story short, I needed a crank seal yesterday and had to wait till today to get it. It is now in and while putting the primary together, the clutch gave me a fit.. I compressed the spring till it touched the pressure plate and still could not get the snap ring in with the retainer.. I've done it before, but this bike, and clutches have been used and apart for 8mo and I believe they may be swollen with moisture.. Opinions??
I removed a friction, till I get a new clutch tomorrow unless someone has a different opinion.. Thought I'd at least get to start it.. Well, fuel pump didnt pump.. Not having the manual for this bike yet and using my Dyna book just dont cut it for the EFI portion.. Anyhow, I reverted back to common sense and figured out that HD doesnt mark their tank wires very well.. Apparently, I had the pump power feeding my sending unit(kinda explained the full tank I knew I didnt have).. Swapped the wire and she lit off with half a round!!! Quiet and smooth, I'm very happy with this used engine right now..
Question #2 - Is it possible that an S&S oil pump will supply 40psi??? Thats whats on the dash guage, I havent checked it yet..
Question #3 - What is the learning curve for the EFI controls?? With it running, less than 5min, it ran 3k for a couple of min then would eventually settle down to less than 1k.. 3k is pretty obscene, is it a learn sequence or will I need to do some diag?? I'll be getting the book soon, but I'm not sure this is in there.. I did put it in self test mode and got nothing but fast flashes, all about 16 or so.. Might have been a slight break in them, but I was unable to count accuratly..
Question #4 - I ran it on the '98 Road King ECM and will probably try the '95 tomorrow in regards to Q3.. But, does anyone know if the new module is plug and play??
Thanks guys...
Long story short, I needed a crank seal yesterday and had to wait till today to get it. It is now in and while putting the primary together, the clutch gave me a fit.. I compressed the spring till it touched the pressure plate and still could not get the snap ring in with the retainer.. I've done it before, but this bike, and clutches have been used and apart for 8mo and I believe they may be swollen with moisture.. Opinions??
I removed a friction, till I get a new clutch tomorrow unless someone has a different opinion.. Thought I'd at least get to start it.. Well, fuel pump didnt pump.. Not having the manual for this bike yet and using my Dyna book just dont cut it for the EFI portion.. Anyhow, I reverted back to common sense and figured out that HD doesnt mark their tank wires very well.. Apparently, I had the pump power feeding my sending unit(kinda explained the full tank I knew I didnt have
).. Swapped the wire and she lit off with half a round!!! Quiet and smooth, I'm very happy with this used engine right now..Question #2 - Is it possible that an S&S oil pump will supply 40psi??? Thats whats on the dash guage, I havent checked it yet..
Question #3 - What is the learning curve for the EFI controls?? With it running, less than 5min, it ran 3k for a couple of min then would eventually settle down to less than 1k.. 3k is pretty obscene, is it a learn sequence or will I need to do some diag?? I'll be getting the book soon, but I'm not sure this is in there.. I did put it in self test mode and got nothing but fast flashes, all about 16 or so.. Might have been a slight break in them, but I was unable to count accuratly..
Question #4 - I ran it on the '98 Road King ECM and will probably try the '95 tomorrow in regards to Q3.. But, does anyone know if the new module is plug and play??
Thanks guys...
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 15
From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
Ok, for those interested, I'll answer my own questions.....
#1 Yes, the clutches were swollen.. I installed a Barnett extra disk set. It went together flawlessly and shifts like a dream..
#2 Not sure, the gauge is pegged at 40psi... Since it didnt make noise, I decided to check it this weekend..
#3 Went through the idle setting strategy I read somewhere on here. Key on, unplug CHT, back out cold and warm set screws then set warm screw by TP voltage, to .54v and cold screw to .64v (roughly). Turned key off, unplugged module for 10min and fired it up.. Purred like a kitten, about 900rpm..
#4 Apparently so, I rode it 20mi tonight on a gas run and it ran great, for a stock'ish bike...
Took the tour pack off while I was waiting for parts.. Not sure if I like the rack back there or not.. Apparently, '95 was an odd year for stuff like that.
#1 Yes, the clutches were swollen.. I installed a Barnett extra disk set. It went together flawlessly and shifts like a dream..
#2 Not sure, the gauge is pegged at 40psi... Since it didnt make noise, I decided to check it this weekend..
#3 Went through the idle setting strategy I read somewhere on here. Key on, unplug CHT, back out cold and warm set screws then set warm screw by TP voltage, to .54v and cold screw to .64v (roughly). Turned key off, unplugged module for 10min and fired it up.. Purred like a kitten, about 900rpm..
#4 Apparently so, I rode it 20mi tonight on a gas run and it ran great, for a stock'ish bike...
Took the tour pack off while I was waiting for parts.. Not sure if I like the rack back there or not.. Apparently, '95 was an odd year for stuff like that.
