click jerk
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Thanks Spanner for the reply. Just heading home after the nite shift and ill pull the top cover off to see if the circlip came out of the groove again. Is 10 thou too much for end play that can cause this?
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Ok here's my observations, the gap for the shim on the right side is now showing about .015 thou and the circlip was not out of the groove. The shift arm gapping is defiantely tighter toward the rear on the cam pins. I have to cut a allan key shorter as the ones I have won't go onto the adjusting screw. Here's a question, I have the early style shifter cam but the newer style left support block ( the one with the dowels ) so should I be putting a shim on the inside of the left block as well as the outside of the block like its showing in my book for shift cam assembly? Right now I have a .030 thou shim on the outside of the block and I'm showing as I said about .015 thou endplay so if I were to put a .020 on the inside and a .020 on the outside it should take up the excess endplay.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
I got the shifter lever centred and I took the larger .038 thou shim I had and wore a few thou off on emery cloth and now have aprox .004 endplay. I took it out for test ride and the gearing appears a bit more precise. I did get a slight jump leaving out of first gear when I firat went out but I couldn'tget it to do it again. I'm starting to think I may have had a combination of problems. Before I went on the all day trip a couple days back I changed the oils in all 3 holes and in the primary I used a type of ATF I never used before and I'm wandering if that could be contributing. I'm going to see if I can get some miles on her using th gears, as much as I hate stopping and starting.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Did some testing and the only time I get the jump or what I figure now is a clutch grab is after the bike has cooled right down along with the primary oil. It defiantely feels like the clutch plates are sticking or somethng along that line. Once the bike has been warmed right up I can't get it to do it again.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
I think its just the brand I used.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Sounds like you are nearly there with this problem. I always use Spectro "Transmission Oil for Sportsters" in a Big Twin Primary......not a fan of ATF at all.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
I think your right, things are getting narrowed down. I wasn't a fan of ATF until I put in the barnett and it was flawless. I think I;m using atf +4 and I'm going to try ATF for fords.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Working lots of OT all week and no time to work on the bike so today I finally got around to changing the primary oil to the ATF type F but I'm still getting the jump while taking off in first gear once in a while. When I put in the new Barnet clutch I had put in a new bearing in the basket and told myself that very soon when I got extra cash I would change the basket because the grooves the plates slide in were not in the best of condition. Question how would the clutch act if the grooves are not smooth?
Last edited by RidemyEVO; Jun 23, 2012 at 08:31 PM.