Fitting a "bolt in" cam is easy as fitting the stock one if you have the stock pinion fitted to the new cam. EV27 is a popular choice. I use Hydraulift forged lifters from "parts4powertoys" they are good people to do business with.

I would stick with the stock pushrods, I do not like adjustables as too many reports of them unwinding themselves.

Tell the Mrs that if you don't do this job in its entirety the engine blow up that could follow will cost ten times what this job will cost....its preventative maintenance.

 

Put it up on a lift SECURELY and get it running so in 3 or 4th its running smoothly. Now take a good stethoscope with a long probe. BE CAREFULLY AND DO NOT WEAR YOU FAVORITE NECKTIE (I built mine from a real one and a 3' steel brake line hammered down to a pointed solid end) I assume you know the areas that have bearings and such behind the big v twin. Don't laugh. There are a lot of people who have not a clue to what's inside the engine. Any way with the stethoscope you will know exactly were the problem is. Ever now and then I get the same assumption of mine and when I listen it's truly coming from the exhaust pipe. Everything sounds just like a smooth running sewing machine, not like an electric motor of course, but smooth and even. Sort of a whirr turrl. Even up in the head. Amazes me since mine is an 04 with 40K and the original owner let it scream. Couple times even did a standing burn out on worn out tires till one blew just showing off. Interesting since I drive it like it's going to blow up at 4K but I'm too old now to want to loose any parts between my legs..

I do realize it does not take much to make noise. I just went thru a 89 22R Toyota motor out of my 4x4 that was knocking so loud my son just finally quit driving it from embarrassment. Told him I would fix it a year ago. I thought it might have had a broken piston at the wrist pin. Had 198K on it. I put the first 150K on it. When I went into it compression was fine. I torn it down and found one Al lifter with the brazed on carbide insert broken. At first I could find nothing even wrong. Even the cam shaft. Finally when I pulled keepers and piston pin (motor has full floating pins I realized the bearings in the pin holes had about .003-.004 clearance. Should have been .0003-.0006 or so. Pressed in new sleeves and roller burnished them in my drill press till the pin just slid in. Put new connecting rod shells on and a ring set on the pistons and broke the glaze by had with a sheet of 360. The engine didn't even have a ridge ring. Simple 10-40 oil once a year and a filter ever other oil change. Sounds and runs like a new truck. I have 3 of these trucks - 83, 89 and 04. The 83 still runs fine but the carb needs rebuilt since the spring went on the power valve and it's like the old GM quadjet with the valve in the bottom of the bowl and once it goes you gotta fix it.

 

Tough to diagnose anything with a 'sounds like this' over the internet...an audio/video clip might be give someone a chance.

 

does the ev27 cam require an upgraded ignition system? or is the stock going to handle it.

 

Stock is fine, its not a majorly hot cam but it does make a difference, they should be compulsory on Evos.....

 

I'm going to politely disagree with spanners on this one, I prefer the adjustable pushrods simply because of time saved by not having to pull the rocker boxes, with that said, I run higher end vthunder pushrods. And always use their camshafts as well, do a little research, id be willing to bet you had a lifter fail, chad

 

You can disagree but you can't hide.....

 

For times sake im considering adjustable, every day its out of service is a day im losing of ride time.

If i go the rout of adjustable pushrods, can anyone give me advice of removing the old pushrods, im guessing i need to turn the motor to release the pressure on the pushrod before i cut it right.

 

Bolt cutters. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE. Well, maybe the jaws of life.

 

is it necessary to relieve the pressure on the rod before cutting it?