Vibrations
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Its worth re-torquing the rear motor mount, even if it looks OK and also do the alignment thing with the head steady and a clinometer to ensure the motor is upright in the frame.
My 1998 Dyna (RIP) vibed at 2,000 rpm and nowhere else....I didn't need the rev counter to tell I was at 2K....
Tank mounts cause vibes if too loose, as does just about any part you care to mention ;-)
My 1998 Dyna (RIP) vibed at 2,000 rpm and nowhere else....I didn't need the rev counter to tell I was at 2K....
Tank mounts cause vibes if too loose, as does just about any part you care to mention ;-)
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I hadn't touched the rear mount yet. As for the vibrations, they are still there and seem to be the strongest at around 2000 rpm. They are pretty much gone at 3000. I went with the less expensive V-Twin aftermarket front motor mount, could that be it? They looked almost exactly the same and were less than 1/2 the cost of the Harley part...
If I hadn't ridden this thing for a year on the old engine/mounts, I would just chalk it up to it being a Harley, but I KNOW it was smoother than this last year before I changed the engine. Of course I also found a loose nut on the upper of the two internal fairing mounting studs behind the headlights inside the fairing. I don't know how long it was loose, but it's tight now. Maybe by tightening the fairing mounting points, I created an amplification of the vibrations through the fairing...
If I hadn't ridden this thing for a year on the old engine/mounts, I would just chalk it up to it being a Harley, but I KNOW it was smoother than this last year before I changed the engine. Of course I also found a loose nut on the upper of the two internal fairing mounting studs behind the headlights inside the fairing. I don't know how long it was loose, but it's tight now. Maybe by tightening the fairing mounting points, I created an amplification of the vibrations through the fairing...
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I have not seen much improvement at all in the vibrations, in fact I noticed they seem worse when the fuel level is lower. I think this has to do with the tank absorbing some of the vibrations when it's fuller.
I noticed this morning that the engine seems to have a side to side vibration. When I look down the right side of the tank and rev it through the vibration range I can see the air cleaner cover vibrating left to right. In a little while I am going to go raise the tank and check the upper stabilizer link, I think maybe it might have come loose. Any other suggestions?
I noticed this morning that the engine seems to have a side to side vibration. When I look down the right side of the tank and rev it through the vibration range I can see the air cleaner cover vibrating left to right. In a little while I am going to go raise the tank and check the upper stabilizer link, I think maybe it might have come loose. Any other suggestions?
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Okay, after a nap I went out to the garage and started tinkering again. The upper stabilizer link is tight and has no detectable play in it at all. The frame mount is solid and the head-side mount is tight. The rear swingarm/tranny mount area looks good, with no deformity or play. The only handling issue I have noticed is dancing on grooves, no wheel hop or pulling to one side on acceleration or braking and I attribute that to the Pirelli rear tire. The compensator nut is tight, the primary chain is adjusted within spec and the front rubber engine mount is new(aftermarket, but new).
While I was under the tank, I went ahead and installed my new Taylor Plug Wires that finally came in. It took longer for those to come in than it took Harley to re manufacture the engine.
The only thing I noticed that might be the culprit is the front lower stabilizer link. The bolts were tight, as were the jam nuts/adjuster but there was noticeable play in the heim joints at each end. Not a lot, but enough to feel by hand when I grab the link and move it back and forth, up and down, etc. Since the upper link has no play at all, I am guessing that any detectable play is a bad thing, huh?
So is this acceptable or do I need to replace that lower front stabilizer link?
While I was under the tank, I went ahead and installed my new Taylor Plug Wires that finally came in. It took longer for those to come in than it took Harley to re manufacture the engine.
The only thing I noticed that might be the culprit is the front lower stabilizer link. The bolts were tight, as were the jam nuts/adjuster but there was noticeable play in the heim joints at each end. Not a lot, but enough to feel by hand when I grab the link and move it back and forth, up and down, etc. Since the upper link has no play at all, I am guessing that any detectable play is a bad thing, huh?
So is this acceptable or do I need to replace that lower front stabilizer link?
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
That would be a jolly good idea. That slight play you can feel in front of the engine gets magnified by the time it gets to the rear tyre contact patch.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
I just got back up from the garage. I went and picked up a new lower stabilizer link, brought it home and bolted it on. The side-to-side vibration I was seeing this morning is gone. I still have some vibrations through the fairing and the handlebars, but it is diminished back to a more normal level. It's almost hard to believe that such a small amount of play in a link would cause that much havoc. I still have to take it out for a ride to see if it's for sure fixed, but it looks good so far.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
If you haven't done so D1gger, it might be worth reading my bagger wobble thread over in Touring, which explains how our rubber mounts works! Slack in the system is an inherent problem, so we must try to minimise it.
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 684
Likes: 9
From: Indian Head, PA
Finally got the bike in to the shop this afternoon. This was the first available slot on the schedule. I took them in the new rear tire and asked them to check the swingarm bushings/rear motor mount, head bearings and front wheel bearings as well. I also told them about the vibration issue.
As the tech wheeled my bike into the shop, he discovered the upper stabilizer link was bad. When I checked it, I apparently didn't use enough "conviction" to get it to move. The tech found it by grabbing the grips, standing the bike upright and steering sharply left and right, which violently shook the whole back of the bike. He said there was something else moving in the back end as well, but he didn't know what until he got in there closer to look.
Now I get to wait until they figure out what all it needs and how much it's going to cost. Hopefully not too much, but if that rear pivot has never been replaced over the last 22 years, they are going to have fun removing it! LOL!
As the tech wheeled my bike into the shop, he discovered the upper stabilizer link was bad. When I checked it, I apparently didn't use enough "conviction" to get it to move. The tech found it by grabbing the grips, standing the bike upright and steering sharply left and right, which violently shook the whole back of the bike. He said there was something else moving in the back end as well, but he didn't know what until he got in there closer to look.
Now I get to wait until they figure out what all it needs and how much it's going to cost. Hopefully not too much, but if that rear pivot has never been replaced over the last 22 years, they are going to have fun removing it! LOL!