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1997 Throttle position sensor setting

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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1997bagger

Does the new Cobra tuner work with the 95-96"s ? have no experiance with the latest Cobra deal
I checked out Cobra's website and they offer 3 tuners for 95-05 touring bikes. One of them is of an autotune design, it makes changes as needed at up to 80 times per second, it supposedly makes changes to any and all upgrades, sells for $600. Another is like the Vance & Hines I have on my bike with the 3 adjustable pots. The 3rd is a California model that's non-adjustable. The last 2 retail for $250. It's called the fi2000.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 2AMGuy
Don't want to hi-jack this thread as I have a 2000 Ultra with the MM EFI system and I've had a h**l of an ongoing problem that may contribute to this discussion.

My bike has nearly 79,000 miles on it and it has a 1550 kit (Stage II).

Recently, it got to where is had a constant miss/surge at any constant speed or RPM.

After doing the normal tune up stuff I took it to an indy shop and he thought it was leaking intake seals so I had him install them.
Seemed like it was better for day or two (probably my imagination).

I purchased, and installed a new TPS and simply set it to where the engine would maintain about 1000 RPM's at warm idle, however it still had the same miss/surge at constant speed/RPM.

Back to the shop.
Indy checked all wiring and finally got the bike to "code" after installing a new Engine Temp Sensor which indicated that the ECM was defective.
He ordered a new ECM (which I think he says has been updated about 5 times since my bike was built) and also a new "flash" update for the Stage II.
The new ECM has a USB port that requires updates to be done via a laptop computer.
I've been riding the bike for about a week to see what I think it needs and will take in back after the weekend for some "tweaking".

The bike runs better (so the new stuff defnitely helped) but is still not perfect but the indy (who took a 40 hour class on the MM EFI system) believes that it is now a matter of syncing the TPS to the new ECM and obviously this is not just a set to a certain spec and that's it.
It's more of a of trial and error thing and getting it dialed in correctly.

I'll update IF an WHEN we get the bike running good.

Good luck.
I've been saved. After extensive research, and finally a true older Harley Service tech that spent a half hour to talk to me, my MM problems are over. Back in the late 90's S&S cycle built and released an ECM replacement for MM. It's Harley part number #41000012A. It comes with the disk and software to install. Also included in the software is multiple maps for different size motors and stage upgrades. I purchased the Harley part because I want to keep it as original as possible, but you can buy the S&S version also. Plugged into original harness, no cutting wire etc. Program download and set up is a piece of cake. hit run and fired and runs like a dream. Threw the MM ECM in garbage. Software has live gauge screens and diagnostics. $486 at Harley. Over $600 at S&S. Not sure why it's more there. Service tech stated it's a little Harley secret because they make huge bucks on it. Over $1,880 for the service.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #23  
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S&S VFI undercover, didn't know they marketed through Harley, clearly better than a 95 ECM. Noticed a stock download for a 80" Evo with onboard diagnostics code downloads, your Cobra will still come into play and another option when keeping M&M systems.

Was in contact with a S&S VFI ECM owner a fews year ago and happy with it, not alot of info as a carb conversion overrode the costs of VFI and a tuner, it has alot of features including adjustments like todays Mastertune and Powercomander so keep everyone informed
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 1997bagger
S&S VFI undercover, didn't know they marketed through Harley, clearly better than a 95 ECM. Noticed a stock download for a 80" Evo with onboard diagnostics code downloads, your Cobra will still come into play and another option when keeping M&M systems.

Was in contact with a S&S VFI ECM owner a fews year ago and happy with it, not alot of info as a carb conversion overrode the costs of VFI and a tuner, it has alot of features including adjustments like todays Mastertune and Powercomander so keep everyone informed
Everybody should save thier money in regards to a Cobra tuner on a MM bike. Didn't help at all. I didn't know S&S and Harley teamed up on this either. But sure did help the MM situation. Harley tech also informed me that S&S is involved in Harleys EVO engine rebuild program. Bike ran great today, guage screen on VFI shows all sensors in order and they were easy to set.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 08:28 PM
  #25  
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Here' one of the S&S units at a used price... http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-S-VFI-MODU...b057a3&vxp=mtr
 
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Old May 9, 2016 | 05:33 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1997bagger

Copied this from someone smarter than me, I have a 97 ECM if that is a direction you need to go.

First, back out the warm and cold idle screws so they're not affecting anything. Then disconnect the ISC actuator.
Backprobe (with a pin or anything small like that) the right-most wire on the TPS connector. Connect the positive lead of your multi-meter to that pin; ground the negative lead. With the ignition on and the engine cold, rotate the TPS until you get a voltage reading of .275. Tighten the screws being careful not to change the reading.
Next, turn the cold idle screw in until you get a reading of .60 to .64 volts.
Next, turn the warm idle screw in enough so the bike will idle. Warm the engine, and adjust warm idle to taste (about 1000 rpm's).
I followed this procedure over the weekend and it is spot on. I want to add a few things I noticed when I adjusted the TPS on my 98 RKC.

1. The TPS adjustment screws were epoxied so they couldn't be adjusted. I had to pick/dig/scrape/cuss them until I got them clean enough to get a T15 TORX socket in there. Not hard, just annoying.

2. When I made the adjustment, I loosened each TPS screw one at a time, then retightened until it was just snug. To make the adjustment, I gently tapped on the TPS bracket with a very small hammer and watched the voltmeter as I did it. I hit the magic .275 pretty quick and easy then tightened the screws and rechecked the voltage.

3. The recommended cold idle voltage of .640 above will give a cold idle rpm pretty close to the hot idle rpm. When I got my bike buttoned up and started it, I turned up the cold idle screw so the rpm was around 1,500. Just my preference but I could see where it would be annoying to others.

My bike was popping through the exhaust just a little inbetween gears. After I adjusted the TPS, that went away. The initial voltage at the TPS after I removed the ISC actuator and backed out the hot and cold idle screws was .18. I don't think this is out of range enough to throw a code but it was giving me that annoying little pop between gears. One of the TPS screws was barely snug when I first loosened it too. It probably moved a little from vibration. If I have to adjust this again, I think I'll change to allen screws and put locktite on them to boot. Yeah, should have done that this time.


Carl
 
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 07:32 PM
  #27  
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Default Tps setting?

Man I just followed the instructions to reset my TPS on my marelli on my 98 RK FLHPI - said to set it to 0.275 w the idles zeroed out then set the cold to 0.650 and the hot to preference. Man it’s running like absolute **** now. The original reading was 0.081 - I have S&S high compression heads not sure if that makes a difference but it was running fairly well with the original TPS setting at 0.081 - think I’m going to flip it back to that setting - anyone have a similar experience? If I go back to 0.081!should I set the cold to 0.650 again?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 09:00 PM
  #28  
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I don't know diddly about fuel injection and even less about the Magnetti system so take this for what it's worth: A general rule of thumb is if you make one change at a time, you''ll find out how each of those changes has an affect. If you changed two (or more) things and now it's running poorly, you have no idea which one of those changes put the monkey wrench in your system.

PS. Good thing you're in the EVO section. Otherwise you'd probably be getting a note from the thread revival patrol.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 09:13 PM
  #29  
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Default Huh?

Originally Posted by monkeyboy22
I don't know diddly about fuel injection and even less about the Magnetti system so take this for what it's worth: A general rule of thumb is if you make one change at a time, you''ll find out how each of those changes has an affect. If you changed two (or more) things and now it's running poorly, you have no idea which one of those changes put the monkey wrench in your system.

PS. Good thing you're in the EVO section. Otherwise you'd probably be getting a note from the thread revival patrol.
dude I did change one thing - it’s one procedure - what are you talking about? I adjusted the TPS to do that you have to back out the idle screws and after you adjust it you have to set your idle.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 11:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Rasolama
... - said to set it to 0.275 w the idles zeroed out then set the cold to 0.650 and the hot to preference. Man it’s running like absolute **** now. The original reading was 0.081
Originally Posted by Rasolama
dude I did change one thing - it’s one procedure - what are you talking about? I adjusted the TPS to do that you have to back out the idle screws and after you adjust it you have to set your idle.
Just goes to show you, I don't know diddly about EFI. In your original post, it looks like you made three changes.
set it to 0.275
,
set the cold to 0.650
and then
the hot to preference
.

I hope someone smarter than me chimes in.
 
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