replaced the pads in rear. pressed cylinder in caliper and pads would fit over rotor. but no amount of bleeding could get the cylinder to push in far enough. so took out cylinder and cleaned it all out. got pads snug over rotor but still no able to bleed break and get pressure back to pedal. any help is appreciated guys thanks

 

When I did the rear brakes on the FLH, it took what seemed like 70 pumps the get any resistance on the rear brake. The caliper puck moves VERY little on each pump of the pedal, and it takes awhile to make contact with the rotor. Once you have contact with the rotor they will bleed without issue.

 

I bleed H-D brakes backwards, I use a syringe and force the brake fluid in through the bleed nipple until the bubbles stop coming up through the master cyl.

 

Interesting idea. I picked up a set of the goodridge speed bleeders after the last time I attempted to bleed my brakes (bike sat for 5 years). I got a good amount of the fluid changed out, but I'm sure I didn't get all of it. I've been thinking about stainless lines (loved the feel of them for my cars in the past)...do you think it'd be easier to replace the lines, simply drain the whole system, and refill from there?

 

This is the way I bleed them too. Picked up the syringe at a local farm supply store. I believe it was a 60cc and used a piece of clear tubing that I had laying around. Like three bucks in all. Just be careful when your putting pressure on the plunger cause I had the line pop off the bleeder and boy did that make a mess!! Thank goodness I was using dot 5 or my front fender paint would have a bad day.

 

That would be a good idea.

 

Dot 4 doesn't work quite that fast.......

 

Yeah I know haha but I freak when I spill gas on the tank so brake fluid makes me nervous. Too cautious I guess.

 

Nothing wrong with caution.....I make a lot of money from people who are not cautious when working on bikes :-)

 

....lol....