EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Is this set up bad?

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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 05:17 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
If the gas has been in the bike for 8 months, no amount of seafoam, jetting or new pipes will solve the problem. This alcohol diluted gas has the shelf life of milk...drain and install new gas.
True that. I just raked some leaves and brought the old Ariens snow thrower and unscrewed the bowl and the 11 month old gas smelled like varnish. Varnish!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Just need to get the jetting right is all. No fan of the S&S carb the HD carb is a better one but it will work just fine 1000's of EVO's ran that setup
S&S vs a stocker, HD is better!?!? I smell a debate coming up...
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 11:41 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
If the gas has been in the bike for 8 months, no amount of seafoam, jetting or new pipes will solve the problem. This alcohol diluted gas has the shelf life of milk...drain and install new gas.
I guess I left this part out, I have run 2 tanks through it now. I drained the old stuff out the day I got it. I've only had it about 3 weeks now.

I quess what I was really asking is if my current setup is ready to go for some slip on's seeing how it has the high flow intake and a S&S carb.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by offroader250x
I guess I left this part out, I have run 2 tanks through it now. I drained the old stuff out the day I got it. I've only had it about 3 weeks now.

I quess what I was really asking is if my current setup is ready to go for some slip on's seeing how it has the high flow intake and a S&S carb.
You can make any set up work fine you just have to re-jet the carb.
If you don't have the instructions for re-jetting a S&S carb then go here

http://www.sscycle.com/carbquickguide/

and

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/h...6S_jetting.htm

Hope these help
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 12:49 PM
  #15  
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The S&S Super E is the right carb up to 100 cubic inches then the Super G is required. Your build is your choice and you need to get the Super E jetted for the build.

I fought a Keihin for 3 seasons before finally purchasing theS&S. Best investment and once jetted was virtually maintenance free for many years.

Sounds like the main jet is too big for the current setup if you are getting backfire out the exhaust at Wide Open Throttle. If Main jet is too small you will get a sneeze or pop in the air cleaner at WOT.

Get the idle circuit set right - Warm up the motor set the idle speed then adjust the idle mix screw in until it almost stops running, then back it out until you get to the highest RPM's. Readjust the idle speed now and then test and if necessary change the main. 1 size at a time if you have the jets
 
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 12:00 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by offroader250x
I was thinking of upgrading the exhuast system to match the carb and intake system, if that would work or needs it. I do beilve the carb is putting in too much fuel and air but I'm not an expert

When I first got the bike it wouldn't get above 40 mph until I changed the plugs. The bike sat for 8 months and the plugs were fouled when I got it. I haven't changed anything but the plugs with new oil in the primary, engine and trans. I ran some seafoam in her to help when I first got her. Ran fine for a week and this just started. I'll check the plugs when I get home and will keep y'all posted. Thanks.
Do you trust your skills to remove your carb or the float bowl?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tee&Vee
S&S vs a stocker, HD is better!?!? I smell a debate coming up...
For ease of tuning, overall driveability, and altitude flexibility, the S&S can't touch the CV. Properly set up, the S&S has better throttle response, and appropriately sized, can support more HP than the CV, but, the CV's fine up to 100HP or so.

No debate - the CV is a better overall street carb, the S&S may be better in certain performance oriented applications.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 1984_FXRT
For ease of tuning, overall driveability, and altitude flexibility, the S&S can't touch the CV. Properly set up, the S&S has better throttle response, and appropriately sized, can support more HP than the CV, but, the CV's fine up to 100HP or so.

No debate - the CV is a better overall street carb, the S&S may be better in certain performance oriented applications.

Interesting.
I found the exact opposite to be true on my bike.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 1984_FXRT
For ease of tuning, overall driveability, and altitude flexibility, the S&S can't touch the CV. Properly set up, the S&S has better throttle response, and appropriately sized, can support more HP than the CV, but, the CV's fine up to 100HP or so.

No debate - the CV is a better overall street carb, the S&S may be better in certain performance oriented applications.
To each their own. Been using Super 'E" carbs since early 90's. Got fed up with Keihin & Bendix. All can be tuned, if you know how, but S&S has been the most dependable, & real simple to tune for My applications. If my 96 had come with the stock carb, it would have been the First thing I would have replaced! The PO had steped up & put a Super 'E' on it. If not a S&S, I would try a Mukini.
Ride safe,
Harold
 
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Interesting.
I found the exact opposite to be true on my bike.
Dumb question - were you the bike's original owner? Just curious as to whether or not some well-intentioned, but, poorly implemented changes had been made to your CV before you got it. There used to be a school of thought (since proven wrong) that you needed to drill a bigger hole in the slide's transfer port, and cut coils from teh diaphragm spring. This would hurt driveability, as it caused the slide to "hunt" for position.

I've used S&S carbs, Mikunis, Webers, CVs and even old SUs - and can say that the CV has been the most reliable, and once tuned (jets/needle), the most problem free of any of them.

Again, not discounting your experience - if what you have works for you, GREAT!
But - for lots of folks who already have a CV, and really only need a couple jets and the right needle, spending $3-600 for a replacement carb isn't smart money.
 
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