EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:35 AM
  #11  
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miacycles
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With 70K on the engine I would take a good look at the cylinders/pistons, they probably deserve to be freshened up with a .010" overbore and a nice hone job. Todays pistons with all the nice coatings and better ring sizes are well worth the money. I would also reccomend Total Seal Rings (file to fit) as they keep the leak down to a minimum and give you a few extra ponies to boot. Hope this helps.
John
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #12  
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Default 90 rebuild.

Thanks to all .
I originally picked up a Clymer manual as it was easy to find but i wasent happy with it so got the HD manual and its much better.
I recently found a local indi shop but havent had a chance yet to visit them.
After calling them i understand they have a full machine shop and a good engine parts stock. I intend to have them do the machine work for the top end and will be yakking with them about parts etc.
Will see how it goes.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by machinehed
Thanks to all .
I originally picked up a Clymer manual as it was easy to find but i wasent happy with it so got the HD manual and its much better.
I recently found a local indi shop but havent had a chance yet to visit them.
After calling them i understand they have a full machine shop and a good engine parts stock. I intend to have them do the machine work for the top end and will be yakking with them about parts etc.
Will see how it goes.
Good luck.
let us know how it works out.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #14  
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Yea, and pictures too..........My saga has ended for now....With the honing,new pistons and rings and the valve job, she's really awake now. No regrets and......no more oil leak.

The folks here are one heck of a guide............
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #15  
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Just my opinion but it would be a waste of time to do what you describe on what could be a 1/2 worn out bottom and if it is hot-roding the top will just hasten finishing it off. As is, it could easily go another 40K with no problems. Just drive and enjoy it a while. When it really starts to smoke or rattle, then do it all. By then just being stock is pretty good for a cruiser. I know mine has all the power I need and the only mod is a SE nock-off timer cover and two .312 drilled holes in the center baffle plate in new take off exhaust from a 96 Custom that gives it a raspy cam sound and still have descent engine brake when I roll off the throttle.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #16  
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Default rebuild ?

Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Just my opinion but it would be a waste of time to do what you describe on what could be a 1/2 worn out bottom and if it is hot-roding the top will just hasten finishing it off. As is, it could easily go another 40K with no problems. Just drive and enjoy it a while. When it really starts to smoke or rattle, then do it all. By then just being stock is pretty good for a cruiser. I know mine has all the power I need and the only mod is a SE nock-off timer cover and two .312 drilled holes in the center baffle plate in new take off exhaust from a 96 Custom that gives it a raspy cam sound and still have descent engine brake when I roll off the throttle.
Yes , i hear you and am still wondering after all the research etc., if this motor is at the rebuild stage or not .?
It runs great , no leaks , no noise ...?
I am just really freaking over this apparent " weak lifter roller bearings " thing i keep hearing about and what damage it can cause.?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Just my opinion but it would be a waste of time to do what you describe on what could be a 1/2 worn out bottom and if it is hot-roding the top will just hasten finishing it off. As is, it could easily go another 40K with no problems. Just drive and enjoy it a while. When it really starts to smoke or rattle, then do it all. By then just being stock is pretty good for a cruiser. I know mine has all the power I need and the only mod is a SE nock-off timer cover and two .312 drilled holes in the center baffle plate in new take off exhaust from a 96 Custom that gives it a raspy cam sound and still have descent engine brake when I roll off the throttle.
Takes me back to what happened to me. I decided to tighten up the top end, and it wasn't long before my crank pin started crunching, just like Rip said.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 08:25 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by machinehed
Yes , i hear you and am still wondering after all the research etc., if this motor is at the rebuild stage or not .?
It runs great , no leaks , no noise ...?
I am just really freaking over this apparent " weak lifter roller bearings " thing i keep hearing about and what damage it can cause.?
I have learned two thing you can ignore in life. One is to worry about a weak part on a Harley if it runs and sounds OK. The other is if you have hemorrhoids and are scheduled for surgery ask someones thoughts. Just get the surgery.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 08:31 PM
  #19  
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While police bikes are usually better maintained than the average bike, they are also ridden harder, longer and do parade duty. All of which are harder on an engine. Like I said do the top end then you can check the bottom end. By replacing/rebuilding what needs to be done now, you can ride with confidence later.
John
 
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