I have a 1993 FXSTC, I really like the bike but it is pretty underpowered. I've been reading that in 92 Harley tuned them down to meet emission and noise regulations. I'm wanting to swap my cam and carb and I'm looking for some suggestions. I have samson pipes, I call them short shots but I don't know if that's the correct name, they are short and large diameter, I was thinking of trying those cones that fit between the pipe and head too.
Anyway can you guys make some recommendations. The bike is stock other than pipes, my main goal is better acceleration, I am willing to give up a little down low.
I was thinking a Mikuhni 42mm carb and I really have no idea on the cam. I have the Harley repair manual but it's misplaced at the moment, I'll find it before doing the cam swap but can someone go over the procedure for that? I've built lots of auto engines so this should be no prob, what type of bearing puller do I need and I've read there is some other bearing I should change, any info on that? And does an EVO have roller lifters? I assume I can reuse the old ones? I have 20k miles. Any other suggestion for some power that I don't have to pull the heads is appriciated, ignition? I'd like to be able to run with an 88 twin cam or better. Thanks guys.

 

I have been very happy with my 98 FXSCT's performanceusing a Mikuni 42 carburetor, Hi-flo petcock, Andrews cam, Arlen Ness Big Sucker air cleaner, and Crane single fire ignition. I don't have any dyno numbers but seat of the pants can tell aBIG difference.

 

Blown 331

Sorry - I forgot to mention I also have Vance& Hines Big Radius exhaust pipes.

 

You could simply rejet your stock carb (and do a few other tricks to it if you know how), get a free flowing breather, and install a bolt in cam like the Andrews EV-27 or EV-46 and you'll notice a lot of difference. This can be done without removing the heads but you'll have to cut your stock pushrods out with bolt cutters and install adjustable pushrods when you go back together. Definitely replace the cam bearing while you're in there, and make sure you have at least .010 cam play. There's too much other stuff involved to post here. Lots of things can come into play depending on exactly what you want to do. You can also consider a single fire ignition. It won't add horsepower, but will help with tuning.

 

I have not heard this before. Where exactly are you saying there should be .010" of clearance? I assume you're talking axially (clearance between the cam's shoulder and the inner cam bearing or cam shoulder and cam bushing)?

 

Between cam and cam bearing....shims are available in different thicknesses. Check with cam cover installed using a feeler gauge through lifter hole.

 

Right on. I was just going to measure the difference in length between the old and new cam and shim to that, but it makes sense to check after installation.

 

Best bang for the buck, IMO:

Free flowing air cleaner either SE or aftermarket
Free flowing exhaust, doesn't need to be obnoxiously loud either.
Cam swap, I run an EV-27 butI've got a 'heavy' 93 electraglide, look into an EV-46 or other make
Aftermarket or SE ignition module
Pingel Petcock
Retune the CV carb on a dyno

Keeping the stock carb will save around $300, and there is nothing wrong with theCV on stock displacement bikes. And there are lots of mods that work exceptionally well on them.

For a few more bucks, get a mild or street porting job done on the heads and have the compression ratio raised to 9.5:1. You can still run premium gas and you'll pick up a few more horses/torque. Skip the 'torque cone' idea.......

My 93 makes 75hp/80tq with the above mods, mild porting and stock compression ratio. It is truly a different bike to ride compared to what it was when it was stock.

 

It's shocking to here that you feel your 93' is underpowered. the 1993 softails were faster and had better perfomance nubmers out of crate, then 92 & 94 models.

In 93' HD moved to beather style heads, wich took away the crankcase breather hose from the air cleaner, they changed the starter motor on that bike, & while doing that the rear pulley was changed to a 61 tooth rear, With some minor mods, you bike should walk other models.
In 92 the bikes had a 70 th rear pulley, & 94 went to the 64 tooth.

As far playing with TC88, you will have some work ahead of you to get that far.

The best suggestion I can give you , Is to baffle the the exhuast, = louder does not me more perfomance. if you are running the exhuast open you are down 10-12 foot pounds of torque to the rear wheel. Go ahead with the torque cones they will help as long as you keep your baffles in!

Before you carb, you need to find out what work may have already been done with bike.
Stay away from Single -fire Ingtion, saving 2ohm's will not make go any faster.
The Ingtion module does all the work, Please replace the coil when you do it, & upgrade the plugs & wire.

The Screaming eagle 8000 rpm module is what you want, It was the race module,. works best with the Se coil.

On the Carb your 38mm carb has epa all over it, however you can clean it up and do some mods for around 200.00, With out a doubt put the money in to a mukuni 42 mm you will love that carb.
If purchase from an HD dealer, it is set to bolt to you application{ oe cables work, the choke, and the air cleaner} You should update to a hi-flow k&N based airfilter.

I had a 93, 94, 96, & 97 FXSTS, still wish I had it today.
If you know were your bike was service at, with it's previous owner it will help.
Questions on that , - See your dealer with your vin # he can help, Or E-MAIL your vin to me, I can run a search on it.

If the bike hails from California the perfomance upgrades may have to be changed.

Enjoy that bike ! - 05bagger

 

In '93 Harley went to a taller final drive ratio on the Softails in order to curb the vibration a little at cruising speeds. That made them a little soft at lower rpm.
The 40mm CV carb is a good carb- just needs to be re-jetted. Not sure if the old Sportster needle fix works with that year or not.
If it is a California bike that's a whole different animal. Seems to me they came with a cam that had about 180 degrees duration. Only way to fix that is a new cam.