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Sounds like a good plan, should be solid, torque monster and not stressing the valve train. In due respect, ask the mechanics if they know how to set lifter depth with a Woods cam or you will pull it out in under 500 miles.
If we are in general conversation, it will take more cam to get 95 hp with a 80" but I doubt if you will notice 5-7 hp lower differance when your butt is sucking the seat on your first throttle roll on, you won't be claiming half dead anymore.
Note to yourself: start learning to lean forward, it will keep your front wheel on the ground and eliminate your butt from sucking the seat. Keep us posted and these guys on here love pictures.
Last edited by 1997bagger; Mar 13, 2013 at 06:50 PM.
Stay with the Woods, the design needs the lifters set deeper. Normal pushrod adjustment puts the depth at .100 in the lifter which is halfway of a full travel lifter (.200) Woods squared off lobes produce power but have a tendancy to "clack" when set normal, when the Evo cylinders heat up they grow and lifter depth changes towards the top of the lifters and allows the steep lobes to become noisy. Setting the lifter depth at .150 will tame the square lobes ability to clack and a good oil pump is also a plus when running performance cams to keep good pressure in the lifters.
If setup right, a Woods cam is undetectable and a weapon, if setup wrong it will sound like a diesel, stay with your plan.
Can someone tell me how far a head can be shaved before it starts making trouble for mounting the intake ? Or what would be a safe perameters to go by?
That's a loaded question! What are looking to achieve? If you want to raise CR there are pistons that will do that. I only see shaving heads as a way of making them flat, taking any more off is irreversible.
Stock flattops in a 80" headmilling listed below. It would be best as members are saying, get pistons and adjust heads or head gasket to get compression settings, the W6 is safe at 10-1 but can top out 10.3 to 10.4 for maximum power. On your initial question .060 would be ok and drop to a .030 headgasket if you don't go with pistons
Thanks again guys. I talked to my mech today about shavin heads and he said he's just taking very little off to make sure they are absolute flat. my misunderstanding. He said I will still be at 10/1. Said he and his head builder has a special set up they do, they have been doing for years tryed and true. They have been building race motors for many many years. His race bike turns 7 & 8 Sec. 1/4 mi. and no it's not for street. I havent even taken my bike in yet and Im grinding my teeth like a little kid on Christmas Eve. Bought a new set of "progressive 444" today to keep the rear planted. I know there are better shocks out there but these were over $5oo, ouch. Im sure theyll be fine. Im a man of mean by no mean and money's not endless. So far its all been cash and starting to get in the pocket. You only go around once so make it yours while you still can. I think Im a bit pumped.
Many thanks for any and all the input there friends you guys are a big help.
Sounds like were all on the same page, ask them if that special setup is called Singh Grooves
Hmmm, Singh Grooves, never heard of that. Ill see what he says. When I talk to him about the heads he kinda acts like he doesent want to tell all his secrets. Billy Say's racers ask him all the time how he gets those extra Tq, hp. He just says he tricks the heads. He knows how to make them ballance and flow. Billy showed me his dyno read out on his racer and Iv never seen a flatter Tq line. Looks like a straight flat line accross the top of the paper, truly unreal. Im about to bust just talking about it. Think I need a vallume.
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