Original stator on my 1991 FLT with 72,000 miles went out 1,500 miles ago and took regulator with it. I replaced both with mother Harley parts and reused orginal rotor. Was charging great, however went out yesterday. I had been riding about 20 miles with no problem, turned bike off then restarted and no charge.

I have run test on stator and regulator. Stator test good on resistance test showing 0.4 ohms and passes ground test. With engine running and multimeter hooked to stator wires, there is no voltage output.

Regulator fails output test reading no voltage between each wire from stator to battery charge wire, however passes test between regulator ground and positive lead on output wires showing infinite.

The rotor shows no physical sign of damage and all magnets are magnetic.

Test I used were from Harley manual and a test on J&P page I found from this board. How can I tell if my rotor is bad? I do not want to replace stator again if good and have bad rotor. Also, if stator is good and rotor is bad, could that have ruined by regulator. Very confused and need help. COULD MY STATOR BE GOOD AND MY REGULATOR AND ROTOR BE BAD?

Also, is the spacer which fits between the inside of rotor and case .095" thick. Manual shows inside rotor spacer and outside of rotor spacer. If I have not got these mixed up, my inside spacer is .095" and my outside spacer is .249" + (2) .010 spacers. Does this sound correct. The manual shows inside spacer to be 1.75" OD and the outside spacer to be 2.81" OD, however mine are both 1.75" diameter (from the factory, I have had bike since almost new). I want to be sure I did not get these spacers in wrong when I installed the new parts 1,500 miles ago. Thanks for any help.

 

Signed on to see what comes up When you check the stator, you are switching to AC volt? Aren't the spacers like my Softail for alignment of the chain sprocket. I only have a standard since by 04 Harley only made one, but it controls the alignment of the chain. I double checked mine to insure the sprocket were correct. If you got them switched, surely your sprocket would be way out of alignment. Most you can have is about .03 since that is how close the chain width clearance is on the sprocket. I centered the chain and then checked it in reference to the face of the primary. Mine was off .06 when I went into it and after tearing it on down I discovered the rotor spline gone and it had warn a .03 groove in the face moving the sprocket over. Before I went into it I had tried to get a .03 space and that is when I discovered at least from 04 they make them close enough to only have one spacer. Depending on your new rotor you should have checked sprocket alignment. However that little bit would not keep it from charging. Will make a noise it the sprocket nips since that is what mine was doing. Did it 10K before I fixed it. Dealer missed it twice under warranty.

I think (big think or even a assume) you have the spacers correct since in my opinion the shim was to control sprocket from your original rotor thickness. If it had been the other way when you put the thin one inside sure the rotor would have interfered and hit.

 

Look to see if the rotor was rubbing on the case or wires from the stator. If the rotor is fried, just open the inspection cover on the primary and give it a sniff. You will know if it's shorted, it will stink. If it's open then it wont smell.
John

 

Check the rubber gromet and wiring where the wiring exits from the primary housing. An abrasion short here will fry your generator .

 

I have it apart and no rubbing on the of rotor on case or rotor, and no smell. My concern is rotor test ok except no voltage output with motor running. Is this normal for a fryed rotor. This seems like it could be a bad rotor, however no evidence of physical damage to rotor.

 

Try test described in Harley manual for alt. output before regulator. etc.

 

Ripsaw, I think I might have tested stator output for DC rather than AC output with multimeter. The multimeter I used does not show a AC function, got to find one in my pile of stuff that does. I will have to reinstall stator/rotor and restart to test. I will update on the spacers when I get back together.

 

All multimeters have an AC function .
Do your tests following the procedures in the shop manual and aquaint yourself with the correct use of your multimeter .
This info. is all there to help you and hopefully prevent you from purchasing expensive parts that are not needed.

 

After reinstalling strator/rotor I found with correctly using AC function on multimeter, the alternator was charging and it was the regulator only. The first multimeter I was using did not have AC function. I also found the order of the spacers reflected in my first post to be correct. Tthere is a spacer behind the rotor adjoining the engine case and an outer spacer between rotor and sprock. I checked sprocket alignment after reinstalling and found it to be .030 out of alignment which is within high end of tolerances in the manual.

 

Guess your back together but .03 is a lot on an 04. Maybe not on your older bike. If you slide the chain sideways on the sprocket on mine all it will move is .03. Depending on what way your's is I would throw out the two .01 or add a .030 too them. That way you will be off .01 or perfect. As is I think the link is up against on side of sprocket and on other is up against other side. That is .09999HP loss, more shavings in primary and close to a tic.....tickeeetic..............tic tic...what my was doing, but it was .05 off. Just kidding about last sentence but not first stuff. PS I have two multi meters that do not have AC. What is interesting is they are an automobile type multimeters and really should have AC. My AC one with a two stage amp meter does not have DC