Stator/Regulator/Rotor again!!!!
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 2
Stator/Regulator/Rotor again!!!!
Original stator on my 1991 FLT with 72,000 miles went out 1,500 miles ago and took regulator with it. I replaced both with mother Harley parts and reused orginal rotor. Was charging great, however went out yesterday. I had been riding about 20 miles with no problem, turned bike off then restarted and no charge.
I have run test on stator and regulator. Stator test good on resistance test showing 0.4 ohms and passes ground test. With engine running and multimeter hooked to stator wires, there is no voltage output.
Regulator fails output test reading no voltage between each wire from stator to battery charge wire, however passes test between regulator ground and positive lead on output wires showing infinite.
The rotor shows no physical sign of damage and all magnets are magnetic.
Test I used were from Harley manual and a test on J&P page I found from this board. How can I tell if my rotor is bad? I do not want to replace stator again if good and have bad rotor. Also, if stator is good and rotor is bad, could that have ruined by regulator. Very confused and need help. COULD MY STATOR BE GOOD AND MY REGULATOR AND ROTOR BE BAD?
Also, is the spacer which fits between the inside of rotor and case .095" thick. Manual shows inside rotor spacer and outside of rotor spacer. If I have not got these mixed up, my inside spacer is .095" and my outside spacer is .249" + (2) .010 spacers. Does this sound correct. The manual shows inside spacer to be 1.75" OD and the outside spacer to be 2.81" OD, however mine are both 1.75" diameter (from the factory, I have had bike since almost new). I want to be sure I did not get these spacers in wrong when I installed the new parts 1,500 miles ago. Thanks for any help.
I have run test on stator and regulator. Stator test good on resistance test showing 0.4 ohms and passes ground test. With engine running and multimeter hooked to stator wires, there is no voltage output.
Regulator fails output test reading no voltage between each wire from stator to battery charge wire, however passes test between regulator ground and positive lead on output wires showing infinite.
The rotor shows no physical sign of damage and all magnets are magnetic.
Test I used were from Harley manual and a test on J&P page I found from this board. How can I tell if my rotor is bad? I do not want to replace stator again if good and have bad rotor. Also, if stator is good and rotor is bad, could that have ruined by regulator. Very confused and need help. COULD MY STATOR BE GOOD AND MY REGULATOR AND ROTOR BE BAD?
Also, is the spacer which fits between the inside of rotor and case .095" thick. Manual shows inside rotor spacer and outside of rotor spacer. If I have not got these mixed up, my inside spacer is .095" and my outside spacer is .249" + (2) .010 spacers. Does this sound correct. The manual shows inside spacer to be 1.75" OD and the outside spacer to be 2.81" OD, however mine are both 1.75" diameter (from the factory, I have had bike since almost new). I want to be sure I did not get these spacers in wrong when I installed the new parts 1,500 miles ago. Thanks for any help.
Last edited by busterman2; Apr 7, 2013 at 04:20 PM. Reason: Left out part of description
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,528
Likes: 6,407
From: Honah Lee
Signed on to see what comes up When you check the stator, you are switching to AC volt? Aren't the spacers like my Softail for alignment of the chain sprocket. I only have a standard since by 04 Harley only made one, but it controls the alignment of the chain. I double checked mine to insure the sprocket were correct. If you got them switched, surely your sprocket would be way out of alignment. Most you can have is about .03 since that is how close the chain width clearance is on the sprocket. I centered the chain and then checked it in reference to the face of the primary. Mine was off .06 when I went into it and after tearing it on down I discovered the rotor spline gone and it had warn a .03 groove in the face moving the sprocket over. Before I went into it I had tried to get a .03 space and that is when I discovered at least from 04 they make them close enough to only have one spacer. Depending on your new rotor you should have checked sprocket alignment. However that little bit would not keep it from charging. Will make a noise it the sprocket nips since that is what mine was doing. Did it 10K before I fixed it. Dealer missed it twice under warranty.
I think (big think or even a assume) you have the spacers correct since in my opinion the shim was to control sprocket from your original rotor thickness. If it had been the other way when you put the thin one inside sure the rotor would have interfered and hit.
I think (big think or even a assume) you have the spacers correct since in my opinion the shim was to control sprocket from your original rotor thickness. If it had been the other way when you put the thin one inside sure the rotor would have interfered and hit.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Look to see if the rotor was rubbing on the case or wires from the stator. If the rotor is fried, just open the inspection cover on the primary and give it a sniff. You will know if it's shorted, it will stink. If it's open then it wont smell.
John
John
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
fried again ?
Check the rubber gromet and wiring where the wiring exits from the primary housing. An abrasion short here will fry your generator .
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 2
I have it apart and no rubbing on the of rotor on case or rotor, and no smell. My concern is rotor test ok except no voltage output with motor running. Is this normal for a fryed rotor. This seems like it could be a bad rotor, however no evidence of physical damage to rotor.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 2
Ripsaw, I think I might have tested stator output for DC rather than AC output with multimeter. The multimeter I used does not show a AC function, got to find one in my pile of stuff that does. I will have to reinstall stator/rotor and restart to test. I will update on the spacers when I get back together.
Trending Topics
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
ac/dc
Ripsaw, I think I might have tested stator output for DC rather than AC output with multimeter. The multimeter I used does not show a AC function, got to find one in my pile of stuff that does. I will have to reinstall stator/rotor and restart to test. I will update on the spacers when I get back together.
Do your tests following the procedures in the shop manual and aquaint yourself with the correct use of your multimeter .
This info. is all there to help you and hopefully prevent you from purchasing expensive parts that are not needed.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 2
After reinstalling strator/rotor I found with correctly using AC function on multimeter, the alternator was charging and it was the regulator only. The first multimeter I was using did not have AC function. I also found the order of the spacers reflected in my first post to be correct. Tthere is a spacer behind the rotor adjoining the engine case and an outer spacer between rotor and sprock. I checked sprocket alignment after reinstalling and found it to be .030 out of alignment which is within high end of tolerances in the manual.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,528
Likes: 6,407
From: Honah Lee
After reinstalling strator/rotor I found with correctly using AC function on multimeter, the alternator was charging and it was the regulator only. The first multimeter I was using did not have AC function. I also found the order of the spacers reflected in my first post to be correct. Tthere is a spacer behind the rotor adjoining the engine case and an outer spacer between rotor and sprock. I checked sprocket alignment after reinstalling and found it to be .030 out of alignment which is within high end of tolerances in the manual.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 9, 2013 at 04:57 PM.