Hey guys,I've been chasing this sound coming out of my '93 fxdwg that seems to be coming out of the primary that I believe is the compensator going bad.I get this sound kind of like gravel in the primary its the best way i can describe it .When the motor is under a load its quiet but when I let off to shift before I pull the clutch in it makes the noise and while Its sitting there in neutral while Idling .Clutch pull has no effect on it.I've checked the chain tension according to the hd manual and its in spec.I also checked if the compensator nut was loose and it seemed tight but I don't have the tool to jam the sprocket to check if it has proper torque on it.Also when shifting gears I sometimes kind of get the feeling like there is slack in the drive line as if my rear belt was loose and its not.I also find metal shavings on the drain plug magnet after a few hundred miles.Am I right in thinking that the compensator is going bad or could it be something else?

 

To check the comp you will have to loosen and pull it. I have a cut length of flat bar I use to wedge between the front and rear chain sprockets. My comp went bad last year, but mine didn't make rattle noise like you describe it would actually skip. Make sure there is not a build up of red loctite when you take it apart. Generally I just use the flat bar for tightening the nut and I use the air impact for removing.
Double check the chain tension, if its loose and hitting any where it will be at the top, been there before as well.

 

There is an alignment procedure for the compensating sprocket/outer clutch hub....It is best that you get the factory manual and follow the instructions. Chasing that Primary Drive noise/rattle can lead you into oblivion real quick!!!!

 

The gravel noise could possibly be bad bearings in the clutch basket (this happened to me and I went belt drive) or inner primary bearing. Or maybe something rattling around behind the rotor. Possibly a magnet loose or that annoying stator plug clip. But you are saying it does not happen under a load so maybe the bearing in the clutch basket or inner primaryj. Primary noises are annoying because you just have to tear into them. I fought mine forever.

 

well I tore into it and I broke the compensator nut when trying to get it off going the correct way according to the h-d manual clockwise to remove it because its a left hand thread.After many hours of using a punch and then later using a hole saw to get the remaining portion of the nut out and then using a puller to get the splined hub off I noticed there was nothing wrong with the compensator and the stator and rotor look alright.I need to invest in a diaphragm clutch spring compressor to get that all apart to inspect the clutch.I figure while its going to be that far apart and it doesn't look like I will be riding this summer because I like to take my time and make sure my stuff is 100% and lack of $$$. I might as well pull the entire primary off and change the i.p.b and the leaking shifter shaft seal on the trans and the engine to primary seal.

Thanks for the responses guys

 

Mainshaft nut is reverse thread not the comp nut.
Use a pc of big diameter PVC pipe and cut a notch in it then use a press or vise to compress enough to pop the ring out, doesn't need to compress much.

 

Good luck, I just came back from a ride, went to look at a FLSTS and did not have my normal earplugs so I heard stuff I have been missing. I have a tink,tinkatink,tink noise comming from the primary between 25-50 under a light load, no noise when a heavy load or decelerating..I know my chain is at end of life and have a new one but:

Now do you tell the compensator is bad?

Thanks
Ds

 

Doug I found my comp to be bad because the spring was loose , no spring to it AKA colapsed.

 

Thanks Lynn,

I'm cleaning up the garage and will pull it down to replace atleast the chain. I don't want to reinvent the wheel since I'm thinking about getting a springer but I want it right for the next guy....

Ds

 

Black Bear,

I use a universal steering wheel puller to free up my clutch assembly.

Now that you have opened up the primary you need to look all around the inside cases for any wear that is giving you those metal fragments on your drain plug magnet.

Because you feel the noise is from this area and the debris on the drain plug there has to be abnormal wear showing in there somewhere.

Only source I can think of would be a bad clutch hub bearing permitting it to wobble and nick the metal behind the clutch assembly.

Very sorry to hear you wrenched the comp nut / bolt backwards attempting to get it off, and I hope you were able to remove the broken mess with out having any damage to the threads on the crank where it bolts.

I doubt it's the IPB (inner primary bearing) but when you do break it down by taking the outer and inner primary off you are right, you may as well put some fresh bearings and seals in there. Be very certain the direction you install the IPB seal. Remember it's a holding oil in the primary and seats opposite of most all other seals. It should be marked oil side or this side to the primary. Also there is a complete 1 piece bearing available for the IPB. You can simply, and carefully dremmel cut the race off the main shaft and not have to replace it by using the "all in one" single bearing. Next time I dig into mine I'm going with this updated bearing too.

The service manual is a must for anyone owning a Harley because it is very detailed and also has in depth trouble shooting guides and the correct answers for keeping our bikes running right.

Doug,

You kinda piggybacked your issue into Black Bears thread but I think you may also be looking at a clutch hub bearing issue. When bad the hub wobbles enough to through off the chains alignment and gives you very odd noises. But it could be a little deeper in and be the IPB. You will notice with a bad IPB that whenever the clutch is pulled (disengaged) the noise goes away at an idle. Also clutch pulled in and tranny in gear seems to deaden the noise at an idle. And when you are traveling down the road deceleration lets it rattle, along with simply holding speed. Once you begin to coast (no load) or give it hard acceleration, the torque then loads the bearing and deadens the rattle again.

Note: These are just my opinions. I'm not a professional mechanic. I've been wrong before, and been the only one who was right a few times. So use your best judgement. I still learn new things everyday ... no know-it-all here, just trying to help.