Hello there people! I am getting geared up to fix the oil "seepers" on my 93 Wide Glide. The only thing done so far is jetted (45) and Screamin Eagle ll exhaust. So when i tear the jugs off to replace the base gaskets, i'm thinking of doing some performance upgrades like cam, cam brg, lifters, pushrods and ect. My question is, what grind cam works with what compression ratio to get the most power, fuel economy, and durability........ok, screw the fuel economy part. Just wanting some ideas on configurations and "fixes". I'm also thinking of ordering a Big Sucker air cleaner and i already know i'll have to do more jetting to the carb.

 

im not a fan of the big sucker (all that work, why vent oil vapor back into the intake?)


how much money you wanna spend and how much valvetrain noise can you tolerate. i took my evo about as far as you can on 80" without a bottle...and it wasnt cheap (its a monster though for what it is)


durability is all in the assembly. do it right, and it'll last.

 

EV27 if you're a sedate rider, EV46 for the boy racers. Most go for the 27.

 

Its got 40 k on the clock, wasn't planning on spending a whole lot but not gonna skimp on doing it right. I was thinking doctor up my heads, bore jugs if needed, just guessing 10:1 compression. I'm a diesel mechanic of 25 years, messing with old chevys since diapers, now wanting to tear into my Harley not sure what goes good with what.

 

So many combo's come into play here, still depends on riding style and everybody plus every builder has a different opinion.

10-1 is a good goal for performance, you can do so much off this compression. Andrews EV-27 is the most popular with a Woods W6 having just a little more giddy up with the same specs. EV-46 and a Vthunder 3020 is good for lite bikes because they go alittle deeper in R's with power but come on a tad later so this is just plain simple power that is proven. Head street porting helps with this direction but not mandatory.

Now still at 10-1 and some good headwork, you can get into the still reliable world of cams in the 580-590 lift range that takes advantage of headwork. Woods has a W6H that rips 2500 to 5500 and can still go deep to a rev limiter, a old school darkhorse cam made by Dave Mackie called a DM580 has numbers thats keeps compression up and duration numbers that go deep into the R's with a basic lobe design unlike the Woods cam lobes that use a aggressive design.

If you start getting into big durations then compression bumps will have to start matching numbers and getting harder to difine detonation or lazy down low. A safe good running setup for a lite bike is 10-1, EV-46 and a good head cleanup with a street port, a descent exhaust with some backpressure, play with the CV some or a Mikuni 42 for better throttle response is a recipe for a Evo. You can jump the Ev-46 to 10.5-1 but gas may become a issue is some parts of the country but 10-1 is a good target.

If you want your eyes to water with a 80" Jasper is in the middle of a Evo Viagra build that is dependable but needs attention to details, it comes down to what you want.

 

Well I definitely appreciate the info, and now think I know what i'm gonna do. As for exhaust i have Screamin Eagle ll on it now,and will play with the backpressure when re-jetted after mods. And am I correct on getting backpressure with torque cones not lolli-pops?

 

That exhaust will be fine as long as it has baffles in it, no need for torque cones.

 

Soooo.......... what about without baffles? My girlfriend has SE II`s on her 1200 Custom with no baffles and it sounds awesome!

 

If you run without baffles or something to stop the reversion you will loose all low end power.

If you are gonna run without baffles you need to use lollypops or torque cones.

 

I've got old SE slip on's on my '94 and with the 9.5:1 and SE-11 cam, it runs great and the sound is about perfect to me.. Baffles are still in them and its definitely got more attitude than before.. I'd wait to see how it sounds after the build, I'd think you'll be happy..