Electrical problem?
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 574
Likes: 3
From: AB Canada
Thanks for your help in advance . I have a 1990 electra glide with straight pipes and a kn intake. The bike will run great at low rpms and idle perfect. As soon as I hit 30 mph it wants to cut off in any gear or when I put it under load.. The carb has brand new rebuild kit it has been jetted . The intake manifold has new gaskets and the gaskets going to the head have been replaced I have no leak there. I was told it could be the ignition pick up.. So i put a brand new one on.. Didn't fix the problem .. Then I was told if that's not it could be the ignition module.. Ordered one and put that on there... SAME PROBLEM! Please help I want to RIDE!
I've experienced bad modules on a couple EVO's, sometimes it can leave ya stranded ( but after a cool down was able to fire again ), or it will 'switch' rapidly causing a backfire but be intermittent, usually not RPM or load sensitive, more 'heat' sensitive...same as the pickup.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 4
From:
Do you mean it 'cuts off' as in total ignition failure and you have to restart the bike, or does it just spit/fart and lack power? If it's the latter, it sounds more like lack of fuel ( could be as simple as clogged strainer in the tank ). Next time pull the enrichener/choke cable to add some fuel and see if it cleans up a bit.
I've experienced bad modules on a couple EVO's, sometimes it can leave ya stranded ( but after a cool down was able to fire again ), or it will 'switch' rapidly causing a backfire but be intermittent, usually not RPM or load sensitive, more 'heat' sensitive...same as the pickup.
I've experienced bad modules on a couple EVO's, sometimes it can leave ya stranded ( but after a cool down was able to fire again ), or it will 'switch' rapidly causing a backfire but be intermittent, usually not RPM or load sensitive, more 'heat' sensitive...same as the pickup.
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte
I have tried to pull the choke out when the problem starts and still does the same thing.. Does anyone think it could be the timing? I am going to buy three new circuit breakers today and try that also.. Any more advice would be great thanks...
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
From: Kingston, Ontario
You need to SLOW down and stop throwing parts at the problem. Electrical systems can be tested to determine if there is a faulty part take your time and go through the steeps. Electrical is always easier if you sketch it out as you go along testing this will help you determine you have gone trough all the steps and give you a better understanding of the system.
A bad vacuum leak at the voes will cause you to run like crap and is common after a carb change.
Be sure to check that your cables have been properly adjusted I had a bike that would not go over 60 after the change turned out the one cable was binding and only allowing the butterfly to open halfway so when the accelerator pump fired it it the plate and back out the carb.
You may also have a plugged main jet since it was just rebuilt.
Always start with the most resent `repair` and then the simple and cheap.
Good luck and remember most electrical problems are the carb
Cheers
A bad vacuum leak at the voes will cause you to run like crap and is common after a carb change.
Be sure to check that your cables have been properly adjusted I had a bike that would not go over 60 after the change turned out the one cable was binding and only allowing the butterfly to open halfway so when the accelerator pump fired it it the plate and back out the carb.
You may also have a plugged main jet since it was just rebuilt.
Always start with the most resent `repair` and then the simple and cheap.
Good luck and remember most electrical problems are the carb
Cheers
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
stop throwing parts at it .
You need to SLOW down and stop throwing parts at the problem. Electrical systems can be tested to determine if there is a faulty part take your time and go through the steeps. Electrical is always easier if you sketch it out as you go along testing this will help you determine you have gone trough all the steps and give you a better understanding of the system.
A bad vacuum leak at the voes will cause you to run like crap and is common after a carb change.
Be sure to check that your cables have been properly adjusted I had a bike that would not go over 60 after the change turned out the one cable was binding and only allowing the butterfly to open halfway so when the accelerator pump fired it it the plate and back out the carb.
You may also have a plugged main jet since it was just rebuilt.
Always start with the most resent `repair` and then the simple and cheap.
Good luck and remember most electrical problems are the carb
Cheers
A bad vacuum leak at the voes will cause you to run like crap and is common after a carb change.
Be sure to check that your cables have been properly adjusted I had a bike that would not go over 60 after the change turned out the one cable was binding and only allowing the butterfly to open halfway so when the accelerator pump fired it it the plate and back out the carb.
You may also have a plugged main jet since it was just rebuilt.
Always start with the most resent `repair` and then the simple and cheap.
Good luck and remember most electrical problems are the carb
Cheers
Come back with your findings.
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