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Electrical problem?

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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #11  
1CdnHD's Avatar
1CdnHD
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From: AB Canada
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Originally Posted by Glide1990
Thanks for your help in advance . I have a 1990 electra glide with straight pipes and a kn intake. The bike will run great at low rpms and idle perfect. As soon as I hit 30 mph it wants to cut off in any gear or when I put it under load.. The carb has brand new rebuild kit it has been jetted . The intake manifold has new gaskets and the gaskets going to the head have been replaced I have no leak there. I was told it could be the ignition pick up.. So i put a brand new one on.. Didn't fix the problem .. Then I was told if that's not it could be the ignition module.. Ordered one and put that on there... SAME PROBLEM! Please help I want to RIDE!
Do you mean it 'cuts off' as in total ignition failure and you have to restart the bike, or does it just spit/fart and lack power? If it's the latter, it sounds more like lack of fuel ( could be as simple as clogged strainer in the tank ). Next time pull the enrichener/choke cable to add some fuel and see if it cleans up a bit.

I've experienced bad modules on a couple EVO's, sometimes it can leave ya stranded ( but after a cool down was able to fire again ), or it will 'switch' rapidly causing a backfire but be intermittent, usually not RPM or load sensitive, more 'heat' sensitive...same as the pickup.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 02:32 PM
  #12  
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Glide1990
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From: Charlotte
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Yes I do have a shop manual .. The day I bought the bike I ordered one... Thanks for the voes advice
 
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #13  
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scootertrash
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Originally Posted by 1CdnHD
Do you mean it 'cuts off' as in total ignition failure and you have to restart the bike, or does it just spit/fart and lack power? If it's the latter, it sounds more like lack of fuel ( could be as simple as clogged strainer in the tank ). Next time pull the enrichener/choke cable to add some fuel and see if it cleans up a bit.

I've experienced bad modules on a couple EVO's, sometimes it can leave ya stranded ( but after a cool down was able to fire again ), or it will 'switch' rapidly causing a backfire but be intermittent, usually not RPM or load sensitive, more 'heat' sensitive...same as the pickup.
I had a circuit breaker go bad,that caused the same symptoms. By the time I got pulled over,it had reset and would be fine again. The breaker went bad because I had a bad ground. I found it by putting a light in line with the ignition. When it stalled the light went off too,so I knew it was electrical and not fuel related.Then it was just a matter of isolating each component or switch ,until I found the problem .
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:11 AM
  #14  
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Glide1990
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From: Charlotte
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I have tried to pull the choke out when the problem starts and still does the same thing.. Does anyone think it could be the timing? I am going to buy three new circuit breakers today and try that also.. Any more advice would be great thanks...
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 05:48 PM
  #15  
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Kushman
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From: Kingston, Ontario
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You need to SLOW down and stop throwing parts at the problem. Electrical systems can be tested to determine if there is a faulty part take your time and go through the steeps. Electrical is always easier if you sketch it out as you go along testing this will help you determine you have gone trough all the steps and give you a better understanding of the system.
A bad vacuum leak at the voes will cause you to run like crap and is common after a carb change.
Be sure to check that your cables have been properly adjusted I had a bike that would not go over 60 after the change turned out the one cable was binding and only allowing the butterfly to open halfway so when the accelerator pump fired it it the plate and back out the carb.
You may also have a plugged main jet since it was just rebuilt.
Always start with the most resent `repair` and then the simple and cheap.
Good luck and remember most electrical problems are the carb
Cheers
 
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 07:35 PM
  #16  
JohnMB's Avatar
JohnMB
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From: savannah georgia
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you might want to check and see if your diaphram is pinched
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #17  
machinehed's Avatar
machinehed
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From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
Default stop throwing parts at it .

Originally Posted by Kushman
You need to SLOW down and stop throwing parts at the problem. Electrical systems can be tested to determine if there is a faulty part take your time and go through the steeps. Electrical is always easier if you sketch it out as you go along testing this will help you determine you have gone trough all the steps and give you a better understanding of the system.
A bad vacuum leak at the voes will cause you to run like crap and is common after a carb change.
Be sure to check that your cables have been properly adjusted I had a bike that would not go over 60 after the change turned out the one cable was binding and only allowing the butterfly to open halfway so when the accelerator pump fired it it the plate and back out the carb.
You may also have a plugged main jet since it was just rebuilt.
Always start with the most resent `repair` and then the simple and cheap.
Good luck and remember most electrical problems are the carb
Cheers
Ditto Kushman... check the fuel flow from the tank to carb. to ensure you are getting sufficient fuel to the carb. Try running with the fuel tank cap off or loose , if this works your cap is not breathing , replace cap. Check fuel filtering for stopped up filter., if not , go to the last thing done when the problem started and backtrack from there .
Come back with your findings.
 
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