I have recently purchased a 1990 electra glide with straight pipes and kn intake. It has been sitting for years. I stripped it down to the frame and restored it. I cleaned the carb spotless. The vos switch line was cut so I put a new one on. When the vos switch is hooked up the bike cuts of when i give it gas. If i unhook it the bike will run but not well at all. Does anyone know what jet sizes i should have in the carb? Or if that vos switch has to be hooked up.. Thanks

 

I'd say VOES shouldn't have such a noticeable effect if any at all on idling / revving w/o load.
Sounds like your ignition module might be faulty, but start with just checking the timing and pickup wiring/connection . Could be as simple as that.

 

First of all Welcome to the forum and congrats on the classic Glide purchase. Wish I had the time, money and patience to strip mine all the way down and redo the paint and finish. But I prefer to be on the road anytime weather permits and only stop if there is a major issue to be repaired.

The function of the VOES is to sense high vacuum when accelerating the motor and it sends a signal to the ignition module to adjust the timing to compensate for the higher RPMs. It has a vacuum line from the carb, and a single lead from the ignition module that gets switched to ground when activated by high vacuum.

Have you located your ignition module yet? Do you have an aftermarket, or factory Ignition Module? Some aftermarket units take the place of the timing plate and pickup sensor under the nosecone.

The timing can be effected when the VOES operates so it can compound the issue if the timing is off.

The pickup sensor is often a works or don't works module behind the nosecone. It controls / adjusts the timing.

There's a complex way of setting timing on the EVO but I found a simpler way of setting it. Hold the revs at 2,500 RPM and move the timing plate / pickup sensor until you get the best, smoothest running condition from the motor. This method has worked for me.

As for the carb jets. Often with modifications such as breather, pipes and cams the carb needs rejetting to match. If it's a stock CV I believe an idle / low speed jet of 48, and a main of 198 would be close to stock / slight upgrade. I could be wrong about this but from what I checked when I was going to update my carb these were the suggestions I wrote down.

Intake manifolds leaks have been known to give issues of poor idle, poor performance, even stalling. With the bike running you can mist the area behind the carb with something simple like spray carb cleaner and see if there are leaks by how the motor reacts. Be cautious not to spray excessive amounts onto visible parts or paint. Make certain it's not getting sucked into the carb air inlet or the breather filter.

As a side note some performance setups eliminate the VOES and rely on aftermarket ignition modules to adjust the timing, or they set the timing for high RPM performance and the idle is adjusted the best they can.

Also the wiring from the pickup sensor is in close proximity to the exhaust. The bend it takes and it's closeness to heat can break wires or melt insulation and create a short condition.

And if you haven't done it yet, buy the Harley service manual that covers your bike. They are a blessing to have for the older machines.


Sure would like to see your project when you can. Once you have 5 posts you are allowed to post pictures here.

And lastly when you do get it fixed be certain to come back and let us know what fixed it.

 

 

let's see some pics! i love fresh builds!!!!

 

The voes switch works as Jonny C describes and would not cause the bike to do as you describe unless the vacume hose to the switch was somehow disconnected.
I suspect that you have a hot rodded Glide with possibly an aftermarket carb. etc.
Suggest that you get a manual and compare what is oem carb. and what is actually on the bike.

 

The stock jets for a cv carb are 42 slow with a 165 main and you should be able to get the bike to run with this combo. The voes is used under load to retard the ignition and prevent ping and should not affect idle. I would leave the voes disconnected and get it running first then try and reintroduce it into the circuit. Make sure you are getting a good spark, trimming, and the fuel, as sitting is never good.

 

I had an 87 FLHTC that I put an older shovel head module on there and it eliminated the voes and advances the ignition at a preset curve, I think it was at full advance at 1900 rpm and it ran well until I installed a S&S sidewinder in it and then I went back to the voes with a screaming eagle module which took care of the problem. You should be able to pick up a shovel head module as long as that is the problem but I'd check the pickup and leads thoroughly before I started doing to much to it.

 

Thanks guys for all the great info. I had surgery so i havent been working on the bike or have been on here lately. I took off the carb yesterday and replaced new jets i was told to use a 48 and 190. There was three washers under the needle and i was told they need to be above the needle so i switched those too. I also replaced the two rubber boots that go to the head from the carb manifold on each side. When i put the carb back on the bike it will not stay running. I can give it gas and see it spraying gas in the carb. When i try to start it with the choke out same thing. Right before it cuts off it shoots alot of smoke out of the carb? Please help.. I like to work on my own stuff but this carb is kicking my ***! Im almost at the point were im going to bring it to this local shop which i hate to do. Im lucky i have a two other bikes or i would go nuts to being able to ride since i ride everday no matter what the temp is! If you know what it sounds like any more info would be great....

Thanks again.......

 

Id go into the top of the cv carb and check the diaphragm.