Electrical problem?
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
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From: Charlotte
Electrical problem?
Thanks for your help in advance . I have a 1990 electra glide with straight pipes and a kn intake. The bike will run great at low rpms and idle perfect. As soon as I hit 30 mph it wants to cut off in any gear or when I put it under load.. The carb has brand new rebuild kit it has been jetted . The intake manifold has new gaskets and the gaskets going to the head have been replaced I have no leak there. I was told it could be the ignition pick up.. So i put a brand new one on.. Didn't fix the problem .. Then I was told if that's not it could be the ignition module.. Ordered one and put that on there... SAME PROBLEM! Please help I want to RIDE!
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
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From: Charlotte
Brand new jets... Needle is set to specs from Harley ... The guy who told me that was a Harley certified tech .. He said it was a electrical problem I brought the bike to him that's when he told me its a electrical issue.. The pickup was fried and melted that's why he told me I needed a new ignition module next after the pickup didn't fix the problem.. He said the next would be the coils after i just put the new ignition module on. Before I bought anything else I was trying to get some feedback ... I was so fed up that I couldn't get it to run so I brought it to him .. He went over it and said what he thought it was I brought the bike home and installed all the parts on it.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
Well, if it is electrical, could be the ignition switch or one of those relays near the battery: cannot cope with higher current demands. I had something similar with my 93 decker, but not rpm related but rather electrical load related: lights, radio, etc. Just cuts of on speed w/o warning.
To check that, try to bypass the supply to your coils/ignition module - connect it to the battery directly ( make sure + goes to + though)...
To check that, try to bypass the supply to your coils/ignition module - connect it to the battery directly ( make sure + goes to + though)...
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Novice
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 20
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From: Charlotte
The voes is hooked up correctly .. Would the bike still run great at idle and low rpms if the voes was bad? I was told the bike would cut off if the voes was bad they either work or don't .. Is that a true statement ? Thanks
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Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 517
Likes: 6
From: Ottawa, ON
I don't even think VOES would have any noticeable effect at all - it's either open or closed, and when it closes under vacuum, all that happens the advance on your ignition curve is smoothed out - that's it. You can easily ride with VOES disconnected and won't feel anything...
Different story if there's vacuum leak at VOES and it's line, but this would be like any vacuum leak - would affect you mostly on idle and low rpm
Different story if there's vacuum leak at VOES and it's line, but this would be like any vacuum leak - would affect you mostly on idle and low rpm
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,202
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
No, if the VOES is bad, depending on how it blew (open or closed), it could run OK at idle or at open throttle. It would certainly be worth checking. Use an ohm meter and a vacuum source like a little vacuum pump.
If your ignition sensor was melted, you needed a new one of those anyway, so that was not money wasted.
Lots of "certified" mechanics of all types don't know their *** from a hole in the ground.
You do have the shop manual for this bike, right?
If your ignition sensor was melted, you needed a new one of those anyway, so that was not money wasted.
Lots of "certified" mechanics of all types don't know their *** from a hole in the ground.
You do have the shop manual for this bike, right?