EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Any info. on Evo Cam.

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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #11  
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Bill,
whatever you do please update this thread with lotsa pictures for your yankee pals across the pond. i am interested to see what bolt-in means. or doesnt mean.
thanks,
tom
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Tee&Vee
Bill,
whatever you do please update this thread with lotsa pictures for your yankee pals across the pond. i am interested to see what bolt-in means. or doesnt mean.
thanks,
tom
Bolt in means you don't have to change anything else when you install it.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
What position did you leave valves in before dismantling pushrods etc. Also, did you cut through the old pushrod tunnels & pushrods to remove?
If you have to ask these sorts of questions then you probably don't wanna be pulling your bike apart....sorry but that's the truth of the matter.

At the risk of chanting the mantra, you really should get a manual, Haynes, Clymer or Factory will do but get one!!

But, in answer to your questions. Each jug must be at TDC compression (both valves closed) before dismantling pushrods.

You have to take the keepers out of the pushrod tubes and collapse them before cutting the pushrods with a bolt cutter (I don't ever use or recommend adjustable pushrods) but you want to so that's how you do it.

You don't need a puller to remove the cam but you will need a blind hole puller to change the inner cam bearing....even if you have the cageless full-complement bearing I would advise you change it if fitting a new cam as they cost peanuts to buy.

You should get the gear drive pressed off your old cam and onto your new one as they come in many sizes and if you use the original then you know its the right size.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
If you have to ask these sorts of questions then you probably don't wanna be pulling your bike apart....sorry but that's the truth of the matter.

At the risk of chanting the mantra, you really should get a manual, Haynes, Clymer or Factory will do but get one!!

But, in answer to your questions. Each jug must be at TDC compression (both valves closed) before dismantling pushrods.

You have to take the keepers out of the pushrod tubes and collapse them before cutting the pushrods with a bolt cutter (I don't ever use or recommend adjustable pushrods) but you want to so that's how you do it.

You don't need a puller to remove the cam but you will need a blind hole puller to change the inner cam bearing....even if you have the cageless full-complement bearing I would advise you change it if fitting a new cam as they cost peanuts to buy.

You should get the gear drive pressed off your old cam and onto your new one as they come in many sizes and if you use the original then you know its the right size.
Thanks for reply Spanners. I have a manual but it really isnt that clear
(to me) in this instance and obviously doesnt include info. on easy install pushrod installation. I have some experience over the years rebuilding Brit & Jap stuff. New to Harley though as you know.
Its good to get advice from you guys though as it usually is much clearer than in the manual.
Im enjoying the evo partial stripdown and as the motor is sitting on a bench I have good access. Gotta start somewhere!. Bungo
 

Last edited by BungoBill; Sep 6, 2013 at 05:22 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Tee&Vee
Bill,
whatever you do please update this thread with lotsa pictures for your yankee pals across the pond. i am interested to see what bolt-in means. or doesnt mean.
thanks,
tom
Hi Tom,dont want to put pics. on thread as there are plenty already on the internet re. camchange,pushrods etc., etc. Texas h.c. has already answered re. bolt on . Thanks for reply. Bungo
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
Thanks for reply Spanners. I have a manual but it really isnt that clear
(to me) in this instance and obviously doesnt include info. on easy install pushrod installation. I have some experience over the years rebuilding Brit & Jap stuff. New to Harley though as you know.
Its good to get advice from you guys though as it usually is much clearer than in the manual.
Im enjoying the evo partial stripdown and as the motor is sitting on a bench I have good access. Gotta start somewhere!. Bungo

If you have the motor out on a bench I would go ahead and pull the rocker boxes so that you can use the stock push rods.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 12:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
If you have the motor out on a bench I would go ahead and pull the rocker boxes so that you can use the stock push rods.
Yeah,I think I will just stick with the stock p.rods. Do you do one jug at a time
(tdc)and if so what sequence.?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 12:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BungoBill
Why is the Cam called a "drop in"?
Will probably go for Andrews Evo 27 and "easy" adjust Pushrods.
I have new Jims Blocks & Lifters that I hope to fit.
Do any of you guys on the forum anticipate any probs. fitting these. Bungo.

I had to shave off from the housing an area less than a sixteenth of an inch to get the ev27 cam to turn without hitting the shelf just below the pilot bearing for the cam. Other than making sure your color codes match you should not have problems. If you do not match with color codes on cam gear have the local shop (dealer 25 bucks) press on your old cam gear to new cam.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 01:36 PM
  #19  
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I put the Andrew E27 cam & adj push rods also had to buy Dynotech piggy-back system to keep from burning up. With that said I'm glad I did it, runs 2X better than stock.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RCermak
I put the Andrew E27 cam & adj push rods also had to buy Dynotech piggy-back system to keep from burning up. With that said I'm glad I did it, runs 2X better than stock.
They run fine on stock ign....who told you to buy the Dynatech?
 
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