90+ hp/tq build
I work with EFI daily and putting a carb on a warmed up Evo was best decision made as my will to make the M&M work gave out after 2 years not to mentioned it also cost me a heated cylinder.
If you want to try to make the M&M work, sell a kidney and buy a aftermarket plenom, S&S ECM and might have a fighting chance but the prehistoric drip carb has the ability to throttle past modern technology, have seen it in my mirror multiple times.
10.0 cr.
Our Stage II Heads
Dyna 2000i or Crane HI-4
Either a re-worked CV, 42 Mik, or S&S E
Supertrapp 2/1, Thunderheader, or Cycle Shack 2/2's.
80-85 hp, low 90's torque, with EXCELLENT fuel economy.
Must've built 75-100 of these over the years.......
Reliable, smooth combination.
Not enough?
A bit more compression and a Wood 8.
That will hover @ 95 hp, and 95 ft/lbs.
Scott
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Complete Machine Shop
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So good port on the heads, a higher compression and good cam. I'm thinking around a 550 lift 240-250 duration cam. And contemplating a .030 cometic head gasket. If I stay in the 550 I shouldn't have to change to different valve springs and that should I?
How much of a pain in the *** will it be to switch to carb? How much $$$$?
So good port on the heads, a higher compression and good cam. I'm thinking around a 550 lift 240-250 duration cam. And contemplating a .030 cometic head gasket. If I stay in the 550 I shouldn't have to change to different valve springs and that should I?
How much of a pain in the *** will it be to switch to carb? How much $$$$?
So good port on the heads, a higher compression and good cam. I'm thinking around a 550 lift 240-250 duration cam. And contemplating a .030 cometic head gasket. If I stay in the 550 I shouldn't have to change to different valve springs and that should I?
How much of a pain in the *** will it be to switch to carb? How much $$$$?
Jasper has some componants that all you would need is some pistons that will get you bragging rights with your blood. He already has everything calculated for compression and head gasket thickness and might be worth a PM if he still has the parts.
A piece of the puzzle with a big bike is to change the primary to a 3.34 gearing, they come with a 3.15 for sight seeing, another way is to take a tooth off the trans sprocket which is alot of work but every little thing adds up when meeting your riding partners at the next watering hole. The White Bike has the primary changed, 2 teeth off the trans sprocket with a OD6 to get highway gearing back, don't have any trouble pulling away from 103's but don't get me wrong, there is always a monster Twinkee out there that will hand my little Evo stroker engine embarrassment but done right a Evo is a efficient engine
Ride with graybeards that throttle like their hair is on fire and sometimes called qualifying, my engine ran inconsistent with the M&M and took a lot of chit because they knew what was in the engine, switched to the carb and only take chit for the color of the bike now because they say they look for the 3 lights and get ready to move over.
Sent a PM on costs of the carb switch
Last edited by 1997bagger; Oct 26, 2013 at 09:48 AM.
i will for sure be looking at different gearing! these gears kill me and it doesn't even have a top end. that may be because it's stock or because of the m and m, either way its going to change. i can't be topping out at 104!! that just isn't enough!
i'll be calling woods on monday to talk about cam selection too. di'm also looking at a mackie cam but i've heard he doesn't really want to talk to people unless theyre using all his componants, oh well his loss i guess...
i do think built right and put together properly a 90/90 evo can be reliable.
1997bagger has pretty much pointed me in the way of a carb as well, even though i'm trying to be stubborn and do what others say can't be done.
thanks all for the help!!! much appreciated!
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
You can set up a Mackie cam at 10.25-1 with good heads and won't really need to talk to Dave M. Good engine builders can adapt head CC and compression to work according to cam numbers, each builder just have their preferences but not much performance difference between a W6H and DM581, can't go wrong with either brand of cam but the Woods have aggressive ramps and the DM is more standard but uses some neat specs
Clean up your ports and get a good valve job!
10.25:1 is your limit so set it at 10.25:1 than!
You will need a cam with about 252 @.50 in the .550" - .590" lift! I would find a cam that works for you! based on pipe and how you ride, weight, ect....
You will need a good pipe and I would change to say a HSR 42mm carb over your stock set up!
set the squish up around .032" and it should run good on pump gas!
there is no way to tell you what power you will make without a dyno but that should get you close to your #'s!
Once you are over that 1 HP per Cubic Inch it is much harded to make more power! 90 is not so bad tho!
I like 2 into 1 pipes Thunderheaders work good!
over .550" lift I run roller rockers!
If you set the squish tight you can run higher compression and pump gas still! there is a limit but If tuned good I have ran 11:1 on 93 pump gas!
head work will make or brake you! good luck!







