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Help me read these plugs

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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 06:33 AM
  #21  
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Joe..we all love the rapping of the pipes..easily trims of 5 mpg I'm sure. Especially in the tunnels in 50 degree weather. Did mine numerous times going to Jamestown VA on the Parkway yesterday.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Nov 17, 2013 at 06:44 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 06:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
On timing, it will ping in 5th if I accelerate too hard on the highway at 3000 rpm...so I don't think it needs more timing. Plus it's kind of hard to start, kicking back a little, so I don't think I can put in any more static timing.
You are correct on the ability to ping, was going off strap timing by memory and my memory failed, rechecked the literature and when the heat mark is closer to the base it is too far advanced. Attached a descent website, sorry about the misinfo, I take my advice personal as it is my occupation in the daily grind.

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
 
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 07:38 AM
  #23  
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Attached my plugs set with a AFR reader, set at 13.8 at cruise range, 13.2 WOT and 14.2 idle. New bikes are set at 14.6-14.8 cruise for heat that burns waste gasses to please treehuggers, tuners take this number down to 14.2 for a comprimise of MPG and less heat. I found the White Bike pulls harder with 13.8 and also controls detonation, running a Mikuni 45 and give up some MPG tank to tank with big cube new bikes but know cylinder heat is in check and can pull away at will so will live with a extra dollar at top off.
 

Last edited by 1997bagger; Jan 26, 2019 at 11:57 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 09:56 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 1997bagger
You are correct on the ability to ping, was going off strap timing by memory and my memory failed, rechecked the literature and when the heat mark is closer to the base it is too far advanced. Attached a descent website, sorry about the misinfo, I take my advice personal as it is my occupation in the daily grind.

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
Wow, what a great website you referred! You taught me something - I'm an old dude that knows how to set points and read plugs a little, but I never knew that timing trick by reading the strap. Appreciate the education!

I have to admit, nowadays I run a wideband in my Vette and HP Tuners and scan and tune the car myself...modern technology is wonderful, I can adjust my timing and AFR based on what the car is telling me on each drag strip run with just a few keystrokes.

My bike is kind of hard to start, particularly first start of the day - after that it's usually good. The starter will actually stop, like the bike is kicking back. Sounds to me like it's got too much timing - you know how a car will kick back if you have too much static timing. And it's too easy to make it ping on the highway - just a ź to ˝ handful of throttle will make it ping. Add up these two items plus the new education you gave me, and I think I might back off the timing just a little.

Now I need to learn how to adjust the timing on a Harley. I have a dial back timing light, but hmmm...where's the timing mark?? Matter of fact, I guess the timing is set under the cap under the right side crank cover...looks like I have a new project to research. I see how to do static but not sure how to set the centrifugal advance...are there weights in there?


If anyone cares to lead me in the right direction on setting timing on a Harley I'd appreciate the advice.

Next on my list of mods I think is a E27 cam. I've been reading how to swap the cams (learned where the timing is set from that how to), looks pretty easy (and that way I could make sure my inner bearing is replaced, supposedly done at 50k miles but I have no paperwork) and knowing what a bigger cam did for me in my Vette, I think I'd like it in the Harley. Plus i LOVE the sound of a big cam.

 

Last edited by Joe_G; Nov 17, 2013 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #25  
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Hmmm before anyone says it, I guess I should just RTFM. I have a service manual. Still, if anyone has any tips based on experience with setting the timing, I'd appreciate it.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 12:34 PM
  #26  
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The easiest way to time your bike is with one of these "Kwik-tyme". You remove the outer primary, take the two rear inner primary bolts out of the engine, put the kwik-tyme in place and re-torque the bolts. Next bring the engine up to TDEC and make the rotor with a mark opposite the TDC mark on the Kwik-tyme. Reinstall the outer primary, put oil in it and you are ready to time your engine without getting an oil bath!!!!!! All you need to do is remove the inspection cover and shine your timing light in there.
If you have a dial back timing light you can just put a home-made pointer in there and mark the rotor!!! Hope this helps.
John
 
Attached Thumbnails Help me read these plugs-kwiktyme-007.jpg  
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #27  
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Default plugs ok.

Your plugs look very good .
Only thing i would do is convert to more modern platinum or irridium plugs.
They require less voltage and last three times longer.
 
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