I put the "stair looking wedge tool" from Amazon for $11 shipped. Well worth it.

To break off the compensator nut (CN), I used a 3' breaker bar with the detachable extension from my low profile jack - it came off pretty easy. And I had someone use too much red Loctite on the CN.

I solved the problem of cleaning out the old red Loctite by buying a new one. Must easier and I did not have any picks to clean it out nor at that time did I want to spend the time.

As my Dad told me often, the right tools for the job make it go so much easier.

 

you have answered your own question

jam bar is way to go

jamming things between the chain and sprockets is a butchers technique that will stretch chain and /or smash inner primary

had a shovel that refused to let nut come undone, after trying heat / long bars / wedging things between chain and sprockets / smashing inner primary in process I tried a jam bar - job was done in a matter of minutes

dimensions for jam bar are floating around on internet, I found them and they were spot on, FLT / FXR are different length to shovel / softail

if you can't find them pm me and I'll measure up mine

 

I have a 5' straight piece of standard exhaust pipe that i use as a breaker bar....cheap and works a treat.

 

I used plastic stair looking tool and impact wrench

 

Got it off ... here is what worked best .
Depending on year/model the nut could be torqued on to 100-160 ft.lbs.
Use a cheater bar of at least 2 ft. longer than your average johnson bar lenght.
Fabricate a primary assy. locking bar with 1/4" thick by 1" wide piece of steel stock plate to 7.5 - 8" length. Round off the cut ends with a grinder to prevent gauling the sprocket teeth.
Use this tool to positively lock " through the chain " the front and rear sprocket teeth and this positive lock will allow the full torque of your wrench to remove the Bitch nut . Without a positive lock as descibed you are just getting spring action from compressing stuff like rags into the comp. assy etc. The same tool can be used to reinstall the comp. nut to its proper torque.

 

Remember that the comp. nut is removed in the counter clockwise way as a normal nut BUT if you need to remove the clutch nut , it is a left hand thread and is removed in a clockwise way !

 

heat is the clue for getting it off

 

I have a 1/2" drive dewalt 110v impact that breaks them with ease.

 

Remember, when you are reassembling the compensator assembly, do not put stress on the primary case chain tensioner. You will break it. Think it through where the stress is applied when the motor is running.

 

did you happen to take a pic of the lock bar in use? I'd like to see how that works, I get the idea just like to see it in action...