except on an iron head sportster its a right hand thread which confused the hell out of me until I realised hd have no consistency whatsoever

 

I saw some pics. but cant remember if they were from this site or utube.
The bar can only fit one way to tighten and only one way to loosen.
You will see how it should fit when you remove the primary cover and see the sprockets.

 

I used an old plastic handled screw driver handle to lock the sprockets and an impact on the nut. Both on and off. My son uses the impact on his without locktite and has never had it come loose yet. I do use a couple of drops of blue just for good measure, but never have used red.

 

seems like putting the bar up against the teeth and hitting them with that kind of pressure couldn't be good either...I used the screwdriver handle method but obviously the bar works without breaking teeth or it would have been mentioned somewhere.

 

Understand the consirn but the sprocket teeth are much harder than the mild steel bar stock used to make the tool . The stress is also taken by the primary chain as you apply tourque to the nut . This helps to prevent any shock damage to the sprocket teeth as the tourque is applied gradually. The lock bar ends must be rounded on a grinder to fit into the sprocket teeth as much as possible. I found no marks at all on the sprocket teeth after using a home made lock bar of standard mild steel stock.

 

If you use an impact wrench you take the chance of the magnets breaking off in pieces. Magnets fracture very easily. In all my years of doing this i have had to buy several new rotors for customers. I no longer use an impact.

 

Ditto timsmcm... rotor magnets are very fragile and will crack easily.
The effects of an air driven tourque unit will also put some nasty shock loads on the expensive parts inside the crankcase.
Stay safe and use the lock bar as desrcibed.