The bike runs--sort of???
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Japan
The bike runs--sort of???
After sitting around on a jack in the previous owners backyard for about six or seven years and in my garage for the past year plus, she started for the first time. The bike is 1997 Ultra Classic w/EFI. The engine is rebuilt basically stock with all new components. I initially put an Ultima programmable ignition in, but could not get it started, so I went back to the original and it fired up. The bike starts and idles fine, but the check engine light comes on and stays on. I think the cam position sensor is bad because when I went to adjust the timing there is no change. This is my first bike that I have dealt with, but I know when I adjust the timing on my old Chevy truck, the slightest movement affects the performance. On this Harley, I can rotate it from one extreme to the other and there is no significant change. Also, it bogs down when you give it gas. I ordered a new cam sensor as the original looks somewhat melted (the bike did have a main bearing failure). Could the EFI be stopped up and causing the light and performance issues? I did replace all of the o-rings and soaked the injectors in Chemtool, but did nothing else. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Alvin TX
Yes a bad injector can & will get the light on ,But there are a few other things can as well , just stay on what your doing first then move on ,Double check all grounds & make sure there clean , also double check all wires as it sat so long a tank on & off a few time can cause a wire to rub raw or brake inside & get a poor conection
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Cam position sensors usually work or they don't, I would strobe the timing first, so you know that it is correct and then think about air leaks and stuff...but if its MM EFI I would just throw it all away and fit a carby.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,054
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From: Tejas
After sitting around on a jack in the previous owners backyard for about six or seven years and in my garage for the past year plus, she started for the first time. The bike is 1997 Ultra Classic w/EFI. The engine is rebuilt basically stock with all new components. I initially put an Ultima programmable ignition in, but could not get it started, so I went back to the original and it fired up. The bike starts and idles fine, but the check engine light comes on and stays on. I think the cam position sensor is bad because when I went to adjust the timing there is no change. This is my first bike that I have dealt with, but I know when I adjust the timing on my old Chevy truck, the slightest movement affects the performance. On this Harley, I can rotate it from one extreme to the other and there is no significant change. Also, it bogs down when you give it gas. I ordered a new cam sensor as the original looks somewhat melted (the bike did have a main bearing failure). Could the EFI be stopped up and causing the light and performance issues? I did replace all of the o-rings and soaked the injectors in Chemtool, but did nothing else. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Griz
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Ohio
The EFI module isn't adjustable, that is why the mount holes are the same size as the screw, it does it's timing adjustment by the ECM. Set it base and look for other issues and if you move the module too far it will go in default and lock the timing for safety.
With EFI you can read the codes and not guess at the problem, codes will tell you what to look for, find your code removal in the attached website and it be the 3 second igniton on, 3 second igniton off and back on method with the 2 number DTC codes
http://watamix.com/harley/
With EFI you can read the codes and not guess at the problem, codes will tell you what to look for, find your code removal in the attached website and it be the 3 second igniton on, 3 second igniton off and back on method with the 2 number DTC codes
http://watamix.com/harley/
Last edited by 1997bagger; Feb 4, 2014 at 07:11 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Japan
Upon further inspection of the cam sensor plate, it looks as if it was tightened down in the stationary position, but I didn't take it apart and was unsure. I probably bit off more than I can chew when I bought this bike as it had set up for so long and was in about a thousand pieces. I would like to think that I am mechanically inclined, but this has been a major, major learning experience for me and I appreciate everyone that has and is still helping me. I will try to get the codes when I get off of work tonight and let you all know what happens. Thanks!
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Ohio
Your code will probaly be a cam sensor code because a Ultima igniton won't work with EFI and ECM wasn't picking up a signal while you were trying to start it, the engine light will stay on for a certain number of key on's and off's unless you have a scanner to clear it.
Exactly is sort of running? does it accellerate, does it backfire out the air filter, is it sluggish?
Exactly is sort of running? does it accellerate, does it backfire out the air filter, is it sluggish?
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Japan
The bike will start up when its cold and idles and sounds good. When you give it the throttle, it bogs down and when you let off it spits and sputters and returns to normal idle. After the bike is warm, it does not want to start. It will backfire, miss and eventually will start under full throttle, but puke oil and gas (mixed). I have yet to take it off the jack and actually test drive. I'll update after I get the codes. Thanks again.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Japan
I got home tonight and check the codes and got a 14 and 16. I just installed a new temperature sensor. I found the original plug for the temp sensor plug still attached to the old head. I could have the two wires crossed and will double check tomorrow. The battery was weak and its on the charger. Can these two issues cause it to run on the rear cylinder only?
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From: Ohio
Check those wires but a ETS is more of a choke for the EFI, it will cause a lean or rich condition but has no control of cylinder fire. Low battery voltage can cause runability issues with EFI because if voltage falls below 10 volts, the ECM won't have enough volts to operate proper and coil won't produce full cylinder spark. If you have a battery charger on it with 12 volts present and still runs bad then you have something else wrong, cam sensor controls the single fire coil on EFI so the faulty sensor or coil can cause single cylinder miss fire issues.
Something that needs checked is the original cam sensor module must have the EFI rotor put back in it, the carb or the Ultima rotor has different slots in it for timing so might be your issue.
Your crank sensor controls injector pulse and can fail without a code, but usually creates a no start or shut down condition
Something that needs checked is the original cam sensor module must have the EFI rotor put back in it, the carb or the Ultima rotor has different slots in it for timing so might be your issue.
Your crank sensor controls injector pulse and can fail without a code, but usually creates a no start or shut down condition