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They ain't white, they is grey...my WG ran that colour and I went a grade colder on the plug which made it greyer and it ran like a raped ape and was good on gas.
yeah, on the color i was gonna say "just a little on the tan side" not remembering that gray is the right color... my color is a hair off in my eyes so gray leans towards brown
White is lean and hotter running engine. You want a little color like tanish or gray on the center porcelain part. Im sure my 72 main jet is right because a 74 will blk my plugs, so I just need to turn out my richer screw.
White is lean and hotter running engine. You want a little color like tanish or gray on the center porcelain part. Im sure my 72 main jet is right because a 74 will blk my plugs, so I just need to turn out my richer screw.
Wouldn't a hotter running engine raise the oil temp as well? My temp gauge always stays around 150-175.
Wouldn't a hotter running engine raise the oil temp as well? My temp gauge always stays around 150-175.
i'm going to revert to my aircooled vw tech, so if this is wrong (should be the same for all aircooled motors) somebody chime in.
sometimes you will see a rise in oil temps. the biggest problem tho is with a lean running motor you will see a huge rise in head temps. oil temps are really not to big of a concern as long as your staying under 230ish, BUT head temps can be really bad. on most aircooled motors you want head temps to stay under 400*. anything over this temp can cause valve seats to sink in the heads, valve tips to burn, burn electrodes on spark plugs and such.
Wouldn't a hotter running engine raise the oil temp as well? My temp gauge always stays around 150-175.
Those oil temps are fairly on the cooler side and would not be a concern. BUT,
Head temps at the exhaust/spark plug area are the hottest area of concern.
I have a infrared gun I use for head temps by the exhaust port.
If I run fast and hard on the highway my front cylinder head will be 220* my back cyl 240*. Above 80* day this could be a little higher.
Thanks Schex, You are probably right, you usually are but computer screens and pictures can be misleading. When I pulled the plugs and checked them "in hand" they looked as white as when I installed them.
Just read the plug info.. good stuff, thanks.
Back that timing down and should be ok, for every 1 degree of timing will richen it .1 AFR. If I was guessing you are at 14.3-14.5, 13.8-14.2 is a good target in lower and cruise range so if you backed the timing down 5 degrees it will roughly richen the mixture to the target range. You are correct on the strap being to hot from timing and are in the right direction to retard it
Thanks Bagger, once again you guys know the answers.
I set my ignition on the 4th curve and went for a short run . The band on the strap moved up, so I need to add about 1 degree advance by turning the ignition 1/16 inch CW will put the strap mark about perfect in the bend.
I have a dark ring without soot. Have chalky gray porcelain. I have 2 threads black on heat. I have very tip electrode shinny.
Thank you all for my education. I think Iv about got it.
The latest picture.
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