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Dang it - wheel bearings

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Old May 1, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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Default Dang it - wheel bearings

I just went out, laid down, grabbed the front and back of the rear tire, gave it a good shake, and there is the slightest bit of play there. It's very little but, I suspect very little is still too much. So, what am I looking at here.

It's a 1988 FLHTC, bike week is two weeks away. I'm trailering down (first time ever to trailer). I guess I need to pull that wheel off and replace the bearings (they have darn near 100,000 miles on them). What kinds of tools do I need to replace the bearings or, should I take the wheel to someone? I have done wheel bearings but, never on Harley. I did some on a Honda GoldWing and they were simple to drive the old ones out and drive the new ones in.

Can I put sealed bearings on the wheel and forget the HD bearings? There is a place nearby that just sells all kinds of bearings. For the Goldwing I just pulled the old bearings and took them there. They measured them, walked into the warehouse and came out with bearings. I had the whole job done in a couple of hours.

Worst case scenario I'll take it to bike week and do the bearings when I get home.

Update: I just read that Timkin tapered roller bearings have the slightest bit of "wobble" so, my situation may be normal. Does that sound right? The tires were installed by Harley and the rear tire is about halfway worn. The wobble/wiggle is just the slightest, nearly nothing. My indie guy looked it over about 1500 miles ago for a mysterious whine somewhere from the primary to the rear tire and he said everything was perfect at that time.
 

Last edited by falconbrother; May 1, 2014 at 09:04 PM.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 09:11 PM
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Easy way: Take the wheel off and have a shop do it for you for $20. Harder way: Buy the right tool for $50 to get the races out. Or weld a bead around the race and let it fall out. I always take the easy way and give someone $20 for the job.
 
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Old May 1, 2014 | 09:33 PM
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The book calls for .002-.006 endplay, sound like yours is OK.

As long as there's no water intrusion, those tapered bearings last forever, but,,,,
the only way to know that is to look at them.

A local indy mentioned a while back that he has changed some over to sealed bearings.
To me, unless you where changing the wheels to later style with sealed bearings, I would stay with the tapered bearings, they out last sealed bearings by far.
 
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Old May 1, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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Those are Timken bearings & you'll need a dial indicator & various shims for proper end play. If you don't have a HD Manual you should get one, if available. Maybe a web search would help.
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Schex3x
As long as there's no water intrusion, those tapered bearings last forever, but,,,,
the only way to know that is to look at them.
If they look OK and free play is within tolerance, replace the outer seals, grease and refit.

To me, unless you where changing the wheels to later style with sealed bearings, I would stay with the tapered bearings, they out last sealed bearings by far.
Indeed so! I just replaced the tyres and bearings on my Buell after only a few thousand miles. Fortunately my local Yamaha dealer and tyre fitter has the bearings in stock.
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 10:34 AM
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You can get the tool on eBay for around 20 to remove the races. Use a long bolt and nut or buy a set in Anchor handle to fit the collet. My local charged me $37 to pop the races out. If you want a dial indicator harbor freight. $30 for gauge and stand.
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 10:58 AM
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I had a front wheel bearing go on my 98 Fatboy doing about 70mph. They may last forever or go with low mileage, you never know. Honestly with 100k I would have new bearings installed ASAP.

I do almost all of my own work, but I don't mess with wheel and tires. I let the pros do it. I have the bearing serviced with each tire change. I alternate having them repacked and replaced each tire.

As they say your life is riding on them....
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Schex3x
The book calls for .002-.006 endplay, sound like yours is OK.

As long as there's no water intrusion, those tapered bearings last forever, but,,,,
the only way to know that is to look at them.

A local indy mentioned a while back that he has changed some over to sealed bearings.
To me, unless you where changing the wheels to later style with sealed bearings, I would stay with the tapered bearings, they out last sealed bearings by far.
I agree, your bearings may be OK. I would at least get new seals, pop off the old ones, and take a look at your bearings. Clean them up and have a good look. If they look OK then re-grease them and run the bike for bike week. They may just be dry and in need of grease...At least they will be in better shape after the grease than before you greased them...

Otherwise, like others have said, take the wheel off, take them to a shop, have them replace them and set your end play (shims). It is kind of time consuming to replace them yourself, plus you need to hunt down the shims, and you need a magnetic base and dial indicator to check the end play, you also need a way to remove the pressed in races, etc.

Because time is a factor, take em to a reputable shop and have em done. Timken taper bearings are the way to go. Stay with those. They are much better than the ball bearings they use now. YD
 
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Old May 2, 2014 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 98fat

I do almost all of my own work, but I don't mess with wheel and tires. I let the pros do it. I have the bearing serviced with each tire change. I alternate having them repacked and replaced each tire.
As they say your life is riding on them....
May I suggest:

If a motorcycle owner is going to learn to do only one thing on his motorcycle, it should be to mount the wheels on his motorcycle. I would rather trust a stranger to do oil changes etc.

You may have someone else do the job if you are on the road, but you will know how to check the job to know it is done correctly.

To the OP: I agree with the previous poster, if the bearings look good, repack, replace seals and go.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; May 2, 2014 at 04:38 PM.
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Old May 3, 2014 | 06:02 AM
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It doesn't take very long to pull that rear wheel. I suppose I'll do that this am and take it down to my indie guy to look at. I really don't want to do those bearings myself. Some bikes are easy. From what I have read these outer races are not a matter of just knocking them out with a drift and a hammer. I'm betting my indie guy has everything I need in stock. They have a little restaurant in there so, they are always open on Saturdays..
 
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