Thanks, I'll just get replacing everything that got toasted and see what happens. I'll post back with the results and whatever I find.

 

Make sure the seat can't contact the top of the battery. That's another place where you can get a dead short on an FXR.

 

Its just the motorcycle gods telling you to upgrade to 3 phase....

 

Thanks for that suggestion Owtlaw, I never even thought to check under the seat. The battery is held down nice and snug, but I'll definitely check for clearance.

Indeed, since the bike's down for electrical repairs I might as well do Cam, Cam Bearing, Pushrods, Breather, Killer MC Carb Mod & Breather Gear.

 

Alright, all repairs are done and I'm rocking the FXR again. I guess it's pretty rare that the voltage regulators have failed the way mine did. Most commonly when they fail, they won't allow any charge back to the battery. But in some cases they have failed allowing full voltage from your alternator back to the battery. I was told that's around 30 volts.

The damage caused by this was a destroyed Battery, Ignition Module, Ignition Sensor, Turn Signal Canceller, Headlight, Taillight, all Signal Bulbs, Instrument Bulbs, and the Tachometer was destroyed as well.

Even in doing all the repairs myself, it came to just under $1000.00 in parts. Amazing that you can be just cruising along one day and your bike quits ... and there goes $1000 in parts, OUCH!

Oh well, just the cost have having fun, let the good times roll!

 

$1k is a steep price to pay for a bad regulator.

Glad you got it fixed and that you are on the road again.

 

There should be an "overcharge" idiot light on bikes....

 

Mine failed that way. Took out the new battery. The tach started acting weird and the volt meter was way high. Fortunately, everything else was OK.

 

Hey Rich, good job setting it straight - sorry it cost you so much dinero.
I had the regulator go on my shovel FXR, while riding. I had just enough juice ( after some how push starting it ) to make a short ride home, at night. Kept the revs high and stopped for nothing, like traffic lights or cars blocking my path. As I was only outputting one birthday candle power for lights, I slipped through traffic in stealth mode. Bike quit for good at my garage door. New regulator and a new battery was the fix here. Better days ahead to you Rich.

 

Thanks bud, fortunately I love the bike enough that I wasn't too bummed about the money, but I would much rather have spent it on performance mods. I'll just get to them later.

I still don't understand why a breaker couldn't be put in line to break circuit at anything over around 15 volts. I was talking with a guy that does auto electrics, but it was over my head.

LOL, yeah my tach's not completely dead. At about 75 mph it use to read around 4000 rpms, now it reads 900 rpms.

BTW, rather than buying the OEM ignition module I went with the Dynatek. OEM Rev Limiter and Tach red-line was 5100 rpms. The Dynatek Rev Limiter is 6000 rpms. While looking at used Tach's on eBay I'm finding Sportster tach's with the red-line on the dial at 6000 rpms. Am I right in assuming I can use a Sportster to replace my current tach?