Starting Dad's Evo
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
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Starting Dad's Evo
This August I am going to Nebraska to start Dad's old 1994 Evo. (Electraglide) It has sat in the shed since at least the mid-90s. He has never wanted me to touch it but the message has changed, Mom said he wants me to get it going.
He will never ride again due to health, but I think he wants to see it-hear it.
Maybe he wants to sell it. Hard to tell sometimes.
I am going to start with a new battery. Tires will probably need replaced. Air cleaner will need blown out or replaced. Hopefully the tires are good enough to get me 35 miles. Did they use tubes in 1994?
How would you advise getting rid of old residue left by old gas? This is probably my biggest worry as far as repair. My thought is to drain the old gas, put in new gas, use Marvel Mystery oil or Seafoam in the new gas to get the little parts in the carbs clean.
Then once we get her to fire off and run, we can do the oils, grease the neck bearings, etc.
Is there anything else about these older Evos that I should be aware of?
I am planning on UPSing a Napa air filter, some spark plugs,torque wrench. Chems I have to get on that side because of shipping BS. Are there any other parts I would need to bring because the nearest HD place is 35 miles away and its not the biggest dealership I have ever seen. Walmart sells batteries IIRC and we have one of those.
He will never ride again due to health, but I think he wants to see it-hear it.
Maybe he wants to sell it. Hard to tell sometimes.
I am going to start with a new battery. Tires will probably need replaced. Air cleaner will need blown out or replaced. Hopefully the tires are good enough to get me 35 miles. Did they use tubes in 1994?
How would you advise getting rid of old residue left by old gas? This is probably my biggest worry as far as repair. My thought is to drain the old gas, put in new gas, use Marvel Mystery oil or Seafoam in the new gas to get the little parts in the carbs clean.
Then once we get her to fire off and run, we can do the oils, grease the neck bearings, etc.
Is there anything else about these older Evos that I should be aware of?
I am planning on UPSing a Napa air filter, some spark plugs,torque wrench. Chems I have to get on that side because of shipping BS. Are there any other parts I would need to bring because the nearest HD place is 35 miles away and its not the biggest dealership I have ever seen. Walmart sells batteries IIRC and we have one of those.
Last edited by Tackdriver; Jun 1, 2014 at 10:03 PM. Reason: more questions
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,874
Likes: 36
From: Houston, TX
You're going about this the wrong way...
If the wheels are spoked, it uses tubes... replace those along with the tires.
Yank the carb, and clean it out COMPLETELY... replace the jets, they're too cheap to spend the time cleaning them all out.
Replace all the intake gaskets, they are likely dry rotted
Drain ALL of the gas out of the tank
Make sure the petcock is clean and free flowing... wouldn't hurt to replace the petcock to carb line and the tank cross overline.
Change ALL of the fluids before you fire it up. They're old. After you run it and get it warm, change it again along with a new filter. Oil can get a little sludgy after it sits for a while, and you will want to make sure you get it all out.
After that replace and grease whatever you want... do not for one minute believe that seafoam or marvel mystery oil cleans anything. They may stabilize your fuel but that's it... the rest of it is marketing bull **** and I don't care what anyone says about it either, except for TD.
If the wheels are spoked, it uses tubes... replace those along with the tires.
Yank the carb, and clean it out COMPLETELY... replace the jets, they're too cheap to spend the time cleaning them all out.
Replace all the intake gaskets, they are likely dry rotted
Drain ALL of the gas out of the tank
Make sure the petcock is clean and free flowing... wouldn't hurt to replace the petcock to carb line and the tank cross overline.
Change ALL of the fluids before you fire it up. They're old. After you run it and get it warm, change it again along with a new filter. Oil can get a little sludgy after it sits for a while, and you will want to make sure you get it all out.
After that replace and grease whatever you want... do not for one minute believe that seafoam or marvel mystery oil cleans anything. They may stabilize your fuel but that's it... the rest of it is marketing bull **** and I don't care what anyone says about it either, except for TD.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
You hope there is gas in the tank. Mine was idle for 4 years with no gas in it, and the tank was rusted really bad. Granted, this IS Florida, and things rot fast here, but 10 years, or 20, is a long time for a bike to sit. Good luck!
Last edited by bluharley; Jun 1, 2014 at 10:30 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,495
Likes: 3,705
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
You're going about this the wrong way...
If the wheels are spoked, it uses tubes... replace those along with the tires.
Yank the carb, and clean it out COMPLETELY... replace the jets, they're too cheap to spend the time cleaning them all out.
Replace all the intake gaskets, they are likely dry rotted
Drain ALL of the gas out of the tank
Make sure the petcock is clean and free flowing... wouldn't hurt to replace the petcock to carb line and the tank cross overline.
Change ALL of the fluids before you fire it up. They're old. After you run it and get it warm, change it again along with a new filter. Oil can get a little sludgy after it sits for a while, and you will want to make sure you get it all out.
After that replace and grease whatever you want... do not for one minute believe that seafoam or marvel mystery oil cleans anything. They may stabilize your fuel but that's it... the rest of it is marketing bull **** and I don't care what anyone says about it either, except for TD.
If the wheels are spoked, it uses tubes... replace those along with the tires.
Yank the carb, and clean it out COMPLETELY... replace the jets, they're too cheap to spend the time cleaning them all out.
Replace all the intake gaskets, they are likely dry rotted
Drain ALL of the gas out of the tank
Make sure the petcock is clean and free flowing... wouldn't hurt to replace the petcock to carb line and the tank cross overline.
Change ALL of the fluids before you fire it up. They're old. After you run it and get it warm, change it again along with a new filter. Oil can get a little sludgy after it sits for a while, and you will want to make sure you get it all out.
After that replace and grease whatever you want... do not for one minute believe that seafoam or marvel mystery oil cleans anything. They may stabilize your fuel but that's it... the rest of it is marketing bull **** and I don't care what anyone says about it either, except for TD.
Pull clutch plates and clean them; they gotta be pretty sticky after all this time of sitting.
Change brake fluids out, front and rear.
Pop the cap on the oil pump and clean the check ball and spring. Pull tappet screen and make sure it is clean.
If it has sat for as long as you mention, those engine gaskets are gonna leak...sooner than later. replasce them when the time comes.
If you get the chance take pics as you go. Documentaion of work is always a good thing. Post some pics of your progress.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
Likes: 22,718
From: Farmington ,MS
- My first worry would be the pistons stuck in the bores...pull plugs and spray lots penetrating oil in cylinders...let it sit for a day..then move the bike back and forth in high gear to make sure the engine is free.
- If it was stored with the petcock closed...all the crap from the gas evaporating is likely to be in the bottom of the bowl...if you clean out the bowl BEFORE trying to start it, the carb MAY be fine.
- Changing the oil before trying to start it is a waste of time, as most of the oil is likely to be in the sump and will come out the breather when you crank it.
- After that, new battery, new gas. try to crank it and see what happens...make sure bike is in neutral as the plates in the clutch will be stuck together.
Last edited by Tom84FXST; Jun 2, 2014 at 05:59 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 216
Likes: 4
From: Laurinburg, NC
The oil tank is below the transmission on that bike so you should not have a problem with that.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 856
Likes: 9
From: North Carolina
You have a lot of work to do it sounds like. Hopefully he drained the gas before he stored it. If not it will be an issue. From the tank to the carb it's gonna be varnish. Oil and gas will have moisture collecting about the level at which they sit. Before you hit the starter pull the plugs and shoot a little light oil in there. Look down in the cylinder and see if you see any rust. If not hit the start button for a second to be sure everything is working. Then drain the oil and change the filter (add some fresh oil to the filter before spinning it on). The brake fluid is DOT 5 only. It cannot be mixed with 3 or 4. That stuff is not prone to go bad in the same way the 3 or 4 does but, after that many years I would flush it. It's safe to assume that the tires are totally unsafe. The Electraglide is a heavy bike. At the very least I would pull the front wheel and have a tire put on it before riding. If you have to have a blow out the front isn't the one you want to go. Personally, I'd pull both wheels but, you may not have a lift, etc.. Not sure if that bike has roller bearings in the wheels but, they should be repacked while it gets new tires. If some place like Cycle Gear mounts your tire you can be sure that they wont repack the bearings. Just plan to spend a day or two getting it ready to run. It's definitely not a 15 minute job. I would be willing to be that there will be some issues with it after all this time. Everything can be fixed. A 1994 FLHTC is a great bike.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 36
From: Round Rock, TX
I've started plenty of "barn finds", both bike and car. Don't overthink it........
Drain the gas from the petcock and the carb bowl, refill with fresh, put in a hot battery, make sure you have oil in the tank, the primary and the trans, and fire it up. Watch the oil light. First time you put it in gear, it may try to launch if the clutch plates are gooped up, so point it in a safe direction and make sure the brakes work beforehand. Once it's running, the fluids are a lot easier to change.
I'd not run those tires 35 miles. I have a set of '98 tires in the garage that I'm changing this week, and trying to decide if I can putt-putt the 8 miles to the shop, or just drop the wheels. They have some pretty impressive cracks.
Drain the gas from the petcock and the carb bowl, refill with fresh, put in a hot battery, make sure you have oil in the tank, the primary and the trans, and fire it up. Watch the oil light. First time you put it in gear, it may try to launch if the clutch plates are gooped up, so point it in a safe direction and make sure the brakes work beforehand. Once it's running, the fluids are a lot easier to change.
I'd not run those tires 35 miles. I have a set of '98 tires in the garage that I'm changing this week, and trying to decide if I can putt-putt the 8 miles to the shop, or just drop the wheels. They have some pretty impressive cracks.
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 43
From: NJ
Don't overthink it
Only thing I would add to outlaw's is a little light oil in the cylinders before you crank it....
and 35 miles is a long way on 20 year old tires...
good luck..
Ds,
Last edited by Doug S; Jun 2, 2014 at 10:19 AM.
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From: Indiana