Evo shake
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Evo shake
So I've been going through my bike checking everything to sort out this 2k RPM shake I have. The biggest change to date has been the vibratechnics front mount on both stability and vibration, but it seems to be masking a problem. It's clearly a huge improvement over stock, but I think somethings amiss somewhere. I've checked the wheel bearings, primary, compensator, stator and replaced the rear mount. I've aligned it twice and rejetted the carb and checked the timing. I read that you should just keep the RPMs up, which is fine if over 2200. Why would Harley recommend a shift into 4th gear at 35 if that is too low and lugging? I can't touch 4th gear below 45 or it shakes so hard I can't see, above 2200 it's smooth. I see a ton of Harleys putting around and they are not at 2500 cruising, there's no way. It's the same sitting still or driving and if coasting in neutral or clutched it's smooth at every speed. What am I missing? I get it suppose to shake some, idling it shakes a lot, thats fine. I made a trip to the only guy in the area that is said to be an expert on evos. He said something isn't right and to keep looking, I could just drop it off and write a blank check, but I feel like I'm close, not much left to check is there? I am at the edge of the budget though, I'm still at a good point, I can sell it and make a profit to put towards a different, but I don't want to do that unless I have to. I've put a lot of time and effort into it and even though it's not perfect I'm committed to it 100%.
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From: Houston, TX
I don't care what the manual says, its wrong... you should not be hitting 4th at 35mph. I am hitting 4th at 50mph and around 2900 RPM.
Check everything for tightness and ride the damn thing. It's going to shake some... it's a rubber mounted harley. The more you get into normal RPM's, the less it's going to shake.
Here is another thing you need to remember, 8/10 Harley riders are wallet biker twinkie riders who don't know **** about riding anyways. Don't use them non-front brake users as an example on how you should ride.
Check everything for tightness and ride the damn thing. It's going to shake some... it's a rubber mounted harley. The more you get into normal RPM's, the less it's going to shake.
Here is another thing you need to remember, 8/10 Harley riders are wallet biker twinkie riders who don't know **** about riding anyways. Don't use them non-front brake users as an example on how you should ride.
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I ride the damn thing every day it isn't raining but thanks for reminding me. So if you're cruising down the road at 35-45 you're holding it at 2,900 rpms? Seems way to high for cruising around town
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From: Houston, TX
The tach is ALWAYS above 2k and below 3k... I may lug it a little turning tight turns instead of downshifting but I never ride that low. The only time I'm at 3 or over 3k is on the interstate, which no, isn't stressful on anything either. It's actually easier on the crank.
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From: SE Louisiana
Did you check for intake an leak?
Get a can of brake clean, insert the straw, sheild you A/C with a rag so you don't get false results, lightly spray around the intake seals at the heads, listen for rpm changes, any change and you need to replace the intake seals.
With a stock motor, on level ground, you should be able to put along at 2200rpm or so.
Get a can of brake clean, insert the straw, sheild you A/C with a rag so you don't get false results, lightly spray around the intake seals at the heads, listen for rpm changes, any change and you need to replace the intake seals.
With a stock motor, on level ground, you should be able to put along at 2200rpm or so.
Last edited by Schex; Jun 12, 2014 at 09:38 AM.
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Did you check for intake an leak? Get a can of brake clean, insert the straw, sheild you A/C with a rag so you don't get false results, lightly spray around the intake seals at the heads, listen for rpm changes, any change and you need to replace the intake seals. With a stock motor, on level ground, you should be able to put along at 2200rpm or so.
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From: Houston, TX
Either should work.
It might help you if you just stopped paying attention to the tach and let the bike tell you what it wants. Tachs really are useless unless you're adjusting timing or idle. For normal street riding you don't need one. If the bike is shaking like you're saying, you're lugging it at 1800rpm. Ride where it's smooth.
It might help you if you just stopped paying attention to the tach and let the bike tell you what it wants. Tachs really are useless unless you're adjusting timing or idle. For normal street riding you don't need one. If the bike is shaking like you're saying, you're lugging it at 1800rpm. Ride where it's smooth.
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From: NW AR
I don't see being below 2K at any point except taking off from a stop. If you up shift and wind up at or below 2K RPM, you're doing it wrong. These ain't 104" twinkies.
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Coming to a stop, leaving a stop and sometimes in traffic in between gears. I appreciate the, " I don't know how to ride" responses but I've been at this since I was 5. I have 31 years of riding experience. First harley yes, but I'm also certain something's not right. When I say smooth it's still shaking but it's normal shaking. At idle it shakes pretty good and doesn't bother be, at 2000 it shakes so hard I can't see straight it's jarring. That isn't right. At other rpms it buzzes, again not concerned. It's that one rpm where it is insanely unstable and it was worse before it's better than it was.
