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Yeah, the tires are balanced . What is weird.. there is a window that the wobble happens. Can almost pinpoint it! And it started once I changed the tires out. Didn't do it one time before this!
Well, I put it on the jack, if I spin the rear wheel one way or the other the belt moves to one side.
The bars did not fall one way or the other as far as the front end goes..
To do the fall away test you have to take the throttle and clutch cables off or you will get a false reading. On the Springers if the neck bearings are too loose you get the wobble, too tight and you get a notch in the dead ahead section that you can feel.
You should grease your neck bearings by the way, really good. Some guys tie a twine around the bottom to keep grease from coming out and make sure it goes to the top.
I recently put a Shinko touring tire on the back of my bike (FLHTC) and used balance beads. When I got out on the interstate I noticed that I had a wobble at the general speeds around 70 mph. Sometimes it was pretty bad other times just sort of a feeling like riding on soap. I took it home and checked the alignment and it was way off. By way off I mean just a little maybe a degree or two.
My old method of aligning the rear tire doesn't work on this bike, which was with the measurement tool that I made to measure axle to swingarm pivot. Too much stuff in the way to get it accurate. I used a long straight board and aligned the rear wheel with that. Now the wobble is completely gone.
I once had a 1977 Honda Goldwing GL1000 that developed a violent wobble. I mean a dangerous violent front end wobble. Turned out to be it threw a weight and the front tire was out of balance. I pulled it and used the axle between two cinder blocks method to re-balance it and the wobble went away.
My personal thought is that if you didn't have an issue before the tire changes the issue almost certainly has to do with something that was touched. I have gone to using balance beads and find them to work perfectly. There are people who argue that they can't possibly work but, people who actually use them all like them. They automatically compensate balance as the tire wears with use or any other situation that may change the balance of a tire and may be more accurate than fixed weights. You may want to give this a try. I ordered mine from Amazon.com and 4 ounces plus shipping was like, $11 dollars. Make sure they say that they are the real ceramic beads. When beads have turned to dust it was because they were not ceramic.
I would take a real close look at alignment and balance. Take a long straight board and lay it against the back tire a couple of inches off the ground and see where it's pointing compared to the front tire. Do that on both sides and just make sure that both sides agree that the rear wheel is dead on straight. You may find that even though things looked straight the wheel is actually off a little. That would cause you to be dog trotting out on the highway. At lower speeds you wont feel it but once you hit a certain speed things will get weird. This is a quick, very crude, way to take a look at the rear wheel alignment. Also, lift the rear end and give that back wheel a push pull side to side and see how the swing arm bushings feel. Once they get worn you'll be able to feel some slop in there.
My buddy's rear wheel bearings were worn out and he discovered it when his bike started wobbling out on the freeway.
I had an old Yamaha (it was new when I bought it) and over the years the steering head/neck bearings wore out. It never developed a wobble even though people said it would. I have never had a motorcycle that I owned develop a wobble based on the steering neck bearings, not that I would risk it if I knew they were worn.
Good luck. You will definitely get this issue fixed.
Last edited by falconbrother; Sep 2, 2014 at 07:53 PM.
you need to measure the distance from the center of the axle (dimpled) to a spot on the swingarm and make your adjustment accordingly....harley actually sells a 90 degree tool to do this, or you can make one up
On all the Dyna's I've had experience with have a hole drilled in the swing arm about 6" in front of the axle slots.
As for the tool I have a wire coat hanger cut and bent to a 90* to go in the hole, and have a small wire tie on the straight section for a "reference" measurement at the axle.
Been bust at work.. but this weekend I'm working on the bike... Got to get this sorted out! By the way... my "personal" opinion, I think my dyna is more comfortable than the new 14 street glide! matter of fact, I know it is! But the 14 is my traveling bike now, that was the reason I got it..right? Come on agree with me! lol
I have a street glide I ride often and in city conditions I can't stand it. So your on track Joe, but I say put apes on the glide to fit your style lol
Definitely some apes going on it Thottle, first thing it's getting!
If you are going to do it yourself, I can recommend Hill Country Cycles for their complete pre-wired kit. It was a bit more than buying all the parts separately, but it came well packed and made the install very easy (it'll be harder on your bike due to the fairing obviously). First time I've ever done bars took me only a few hours (I swapped tanks which took longer due to the fuel pump swap, fighting that thing out then in) and now I could to it in less than an hour, it's so easy.
Yeah Joe-G, was looking at their bars, then I seen some said their pullback on the bagger bars was a bit much..
I changed the front wheel bearings this weekend,Nothing changed. I'm trying to do one part at a time. Now get this... I put a magnetic inclometer (not sure that's the word)on the front disc and on the rear disc... Should these be the EXACT measurement? They are off 3 -4*. Now, I left the one on the front disc and put one on the swingarm, CHIT WAS WAAY OFF!
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