Evo rebuild for performance
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 1
From: South Jersey
Evo rebuild for performance
Hey all. I'm trying to do my research for rebuilding my '90 evo that I'll be doing this Fall/Winter. So far as I know, the engine has somewhere around 50K miles and those are kinda hard I imagine. I know it's low miles but I'm looking for some more performance! Not going to be a drag strip bike just want a solid "street racing" engine. My thoughts at this point are leaning towards Wisco 10.5:1 pistons and have Hillside Cycle do a Stage 2 rebuild of the heads. My biggest question is on cam selection. I know the power band is going be either low or high and it's a compromise to try and get both but that's where I'm leaning. Nightrider Stage 3 uses a SE-57. I also see Woods W-9 and Andrews EV-51 in the 90 hp range. I'd like to pick y'all s brains and get y'all s recommendations on this build. Any thoughts?
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
Hey all. I'm trying to do my research for rebuilding my '90 evo that I'll be doing this Fall/Winter. So far as I know, the engine has somewhere around 50K miles and those are kinda hard I imagine. I know it's low miles but I'm looking for some more performance! Not going to be a drag strip bike just want a solid "street racing" engine. My thoughts at this point are leaning towards Wisco 10.5:1 pistons and have Hillside Cycle do a Stage 2 rebuild of the heads. My biggest question is on cam selection. I know the power band is going be either low or high and it's a compromise to try and get both but that's where I'm leaning. Nightrider Stage 3 uses a SE-57. I also see Woods W-9 and Andrews EV-51 in the 90 hp range. I'd like to pick y'all s brains and get y'all s recommendations on this build. Any thoughts?
here's a fews vids of it after the compression bump and how the cam sounds with a thunderheader
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 1
From: South Jersey
Nice!
I guess I should give some other particulars or where I'm leaning. I don't want to touch the bottom end if at all possible. But you never know what you got till you open it up and check it out. I'd like to keep the CV carb with the "CV Performance" kit installed. An upgrade down the road might be possible but $$$ IS a factor. Bassani Pro Street pipes will stay on the bike. Ignition will be replaced with single fire unit. I ran 10.5 comp on my previous EG with SE heads and SE-211 cams (twin cam) and it dyno'd at 88 hp with 90 ft.lbs. torque. That EG was a blast to ride. I sold it to my Brother and now he out runs me every chance he gets, thus, one of the reasons for building this. I just cannot stand to be outrun by my own bike. The 10.5 comp is about as far as I want to go on standard pump gas. 95+ degree heat and getting on the EG hard would occasionally produce some slight pinging.
I guess I should give some other particulars or where I'm leaning. I don't want to touch the bottom end if at all possible. But you never know what you got till you open it up and check it out. I'd like to keep the CV carb with the "CV Performance" kit installed. An upgrade down the road might be possible but $$$ IS a factor. Bassani Pro Street pipes will stay on the bike. Ignition will be replaced with single fire unit. I ran 10.5 comp on my previous EG with SE heads and SE-211 cams (twin cam) and it dyno'd at 88 hp with 90 ft.lbs. torque. That EG was a blast to ride. I sold it to my Brother and now he out runs me every chance he gets, thus, one of the reasons for building this. I just cannot stand to be outrun by my own bike. The 10.5 comp is about as far as I want to go on standard pump gas. 95+ degree heat and getting on the EG hard would occasionally produce some slight pinging.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
Nice!
I guess I should give some other particulars or where I'm leaning. I don't want to touch the bottom end if at all possible. But you never know what you got till you open it up and check it out. I'd like to keep the CV carb with the "CV Performance" kit installed. An upgrade down the road might be possible but $$$ IS a factor. Bassani Pro Street pipes will stay on the bike. Ignition will be replaced with single fire unit. I ran 10.5 comp on my previous EG with SE heads and SE-211 cams (twin cam) and it dyno'd at 88 hp with 90 ft.lbs. torque. That EG was a blast to ride. I sold it to my Brother and now he out runs me every chance he gets, thus, one of the reasons for building this. I just cannot stand to be outrun by my own bike. The 10.5 comp is about as far as I want to go on standard pump gas. 95+ degree heat and getting on the EG hard would occasionally produce some slight pinging.
I guess I should give some other particulars or where I'm leaning. I don't want to touch the bottom end if at all possible. But you never know what you got till you open it up and check it out. I'd like to keep the CV carb with the "CV Performance" kit installed. An upgrade down the road might be possible but $$$ IS a factor. Bassani Pro Street pipes will stay on the bike. Ignition will be replaced with single fire unit. I ran 10.5 comp on my previous EG with SE heads and SE-211 cams (twin cam) and it dyno'd at 88 hp with 90 ft.lbs. torque. That EG was a blast to ride. I sold it to my Brother and now he out runs me every chance he gets, thus, one of the reasons for building this. I just cannot stand to be outrun by my own bike. The 10.5 comp is about as far as I want to go on standard pump gas. 95+ degree heat and getting on the EG hard would occasionally produce some slight pinging.
as soon as i get to a scanner ill post my dyno my tq at 2500rpm right at 86 and climbs to 98.1 at 6700rpm then starts to drop he let off at 7200 and it was still at 81.
the hp at 2500rpm 65 at 6200rpm 110.3 and 7200 it was around 94
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
i guess i should have read the whole post
this engine was a well seasoned 1985 fxrt i never touched the bottom end all i did was check the runout it was at .002 good enough for me and changed the cam bearing and clearance the cam chest for the .580 lift
where i spent most of the money was the heads porting, valves, springs, compression release, milling, roller rockers. the valves and springs were a big chunk of it
this engine was a well seasoned 1985 fxrt i never touched the bottom end all i did was check the runout it was at .002 good enough for me and changed the cam bearing and clearance the cam chest for the .580 lift
where i spent most of the money was the heads porting, valves, springs, compression release, milling, roller rockers. the valves and springs were a big chunk of it
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
i guess i should have read the whole post
this engine was a well seasoned 1985 fxrt i never touched the bottom end all i did was check the runout it was at .002 good enough for me and changed the cam bearing and clearance the cam chest for the .580 lift
where i spent most of the money was the heads porting, valves, springs, compression release, milling, roller rockers. the valves and springs were a big chunk of it
this engine was a well seasoned 1985 fxrt i never touched the bottom end all i did was check the runout it was at .002 good enough for me and changed the cam bearing and clearance the cam chest for the .580 lift
where i spent most of the money was the heads porting, valves, springs, compression release, milling, roller rockers. the valves and springs were a big chunk of it
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 1
From: South Jersey
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Ohio
.590's don't need clearancing except on the inner case BUT when building an engine it still needs checked because assuming can cause sleepless nights.
Hillside is going to jump that compression up to 10.8 to keep the bottom side power from being lazy so be prepared for the recommendation. I'm a Woods cam fan from running a W6H in a stroker engine that was solid as a rock plus a sleeper in a big bike, Woods cams need detailed installation but they are as advertised and wouldn't put to much stock into the Nightrider build because modern engine builders have combinations that are proven to run and you don't know if the dyno numbers for the SE57 was on a happy dyno or not.
Reason why I said WAS solid as a rock earlier is a prepped 127 lives in it now and can't sneak up on anyone because the engine asks for respect when fired up in a crowd but won't never get rid of the Woods cammed stroker motor, it is a great engine to have laying around for a backup.
Hillside is going to jump that compression up to 10.8 to keep the bottom side power from being lazy so be prepared for the recommendation. I'm a Woods cam fan from running a W6H in a stroker engine that was solid as a rock plus a sleeper in a big bike, Woods cams need detailed installation but they are as advertised and wouldn't put to much stock into the Nightrider build because modern engine builders have combinations that are proven to run and you don't know if the dyno numbers for the SE57 was on a happy dyno or not.
Reason why I said WAS solid as a rock earlier is a prepped 127 lives in it now and can't sneak up on anyone because the engine asks for respect when fired up in a crowd but won't never get rid of the Woods cammed stroker motor, it is a great engine to have laying around for a backup.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
on the W-9 yes if you use stock lifter blocks it will need a little work. it took me 5 min with a dremel after I did the work. I changed my mind and bought chrome blocks and they fit without any grinding. and im not sure on the SE57 never used it..