Hey. Thanks. I just went out and let her warm up. Then, checked the timing. Seemed to be about 2 dots towards the front.

Tweaked the ignition, and now, when I Rev it, the dot is as close to dead center as I think anyone (other than Spanners or Johnny) could get it.

I didn't have to have it running more than 3 or 4 minutes.

 

Btw, since its raining, and I can't ride, is a couple of dots forward enough to make it run funky?

 

Grounding voes ignition wire , With the standard timing light you want 1 dot just before touching the imaginary center line, or left of center. That ought to give you about 33-34* for higher compression engines. Then set ignition on curve 3. This is how my 10-1 cr is set on.

 

true all voes are not the same but if you ground the voes wire you don't have to rev the bike as high to hit max advance.


stock evo is between 1210-1350rpm at 20* or 35* depending on the ignition model.
ultima/dyna curve 1 is 1390 @ 34*, curve 2 is 1450 @ 32*, curve 3 is 1600 @ 31, curve 4 is 1700 @ 30* as long as no one has messed with the maps


so if you use 1700 or higher your safe but you will make more heat get a good fan or an old furnace blower

 

no but all that seafoam and water you put In the tank will

 

Well, I screwed with it last night and learned a bit, but got held up by rain and the fact I'm riding it again today..

I was using the wrong dots. The double dots ran just fine but it was a little harder starting than I could explain. By putting the single dot in the window @ 1700rpm and 32* on switch 1 with the VOES disconnected and wire grounded, it was very responsive. Top end really wasn't near as noticible as the bottom end. It just ran much more snappy. However, I tried sw1,2,3,4 and VOES disconnected as well as connected. Couldn't get rid of a 2600RPM ping in high gear while pulling a slight grade.. I reset the timing to 26* and achieved the same results.. Its now a compromise @ 21* for the day.. As long as I listen and downshift in that narrow window, it wont ping.. Also a notable, 32* is all I could get from my pick-up, no more adjustment available.. Kind of curious about that, doesn't sound right to me..


This has me thinking that my AF may be off and running lean in the midrange.. With the timing set on the double dots, it ran fine, looked and sounded good.. Plugs looked proper on real gas, but it really didn't choke down when I closed the idle mixture screw.. So, that has me thinking I may have it more lean down low than it should be right now.. However, with my problem being midrange, I'm wondering if the needle should be lifted or changed.. Thoughts??? The carb was massaged by JET, though parts were not changed.. I believe this is the factory needle, may pick up a Sporty needle tonight if you guys think that I'm heading in the right direction..

 

So, I found this timing link on Nightrider('m sure I'd seen it many times before)....

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/i..._timing_01.htm


For whatever reason, the Snap-on light appears to be my issue.. My timing was right(about 3* retarded) when I started this timing hunt.... My pick-up is now back, about that 1/4" I mentioned earlier...... I've yet to drive it, but I fixed my timing light(the one I trust) and it now shows the single dot in the window @ 2400rpm with the VOES grounded..


Trying the Snap-on, I got 39*, using the method in the link.. I'm leaving it there, based on the first procedure, using the craftsman light that I trust..


Thanks to all that helped, I'll add the road test results later.. I'm sure it will be fine since it was before I fornicated it......

 

As expected, runs as good as ever.. Still a little longer crank time than my others, but I can definitely live with it. Absolutely zero ping on curve 2.. I plan to try curve 1 again at some point, but not today. The VOES is still disconnected, but I haven't noticed much of a difference.. Again, it appears the Dyna 2000 will just use the VOES as a "quick advance" input..