I have found that the bleeding process itself can introduce residual crap into a very small return hole in the bottom of the brake fluid master cylinder.
Try using a wet/dry vacume with a home made attachment to suck out the entire master cylinder and the offending small return hole .
Rebleed the system and hopefully this will be the fix.?

 

And since your question wasn't clearly answered...... Yes leave the cap off. Lay a rag accross the MC to prevent dust contaminants.

 

Well in morning lever was still floppy , got desperate and started tapping on all the fittings and stuff then took a syringe and sucked all the the old fluid out of master cylinder , and all the sudden bam , the lever became firm

 

I'm glad you got it fixed.
I wonder did you suck anything out of the return hole at the bottom of the master cylinder?

 

i looked in the syringe but didnt see anyhthing , i really have no explanation as to what fixed it lol

 

That happens every time I replace pads or remove my front wheel. I usually end up pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper in the process and they need to be returned to the extended position. No need to bleed the brakes but, rapidly pump the lever until some resistance is felt. This may only be at 1/2 travel but, hold for about 5 seconds then repeat the pump and hold process until the lever gets firm. Works everytime for the last 20 years.

 

well its fixed lol , now if i can find out why my s&s carb throttle pull is so much stiffer than my dads cv carb........