Screamin' Eagle Clutch
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 1,730
From: In The Woods, PA
Cable clutch here. No problem with squeezing the lever. I ride to work in the city a lot, and learned from a Police Officer that they use SE clutches in their bikes (from the MoCo), and verified that with a local HD Tech that the Police bikes come that way. I ordered the Barnett compression tool and am picking up the SE clutch kit (part number 38002-04) on Friday. If the tool gets here by Saturday, I'll be putting it together. Never have done it before, I'll post how it goes.
Thanks to all for the input.
Thanks to all for the input.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
The thread seems to be drifting over to clutch controls because of something I mentioned concerning the clutch pull. Normal and healthy riders likely will have no complaints with the stronger clutches and I never meant to insinuate otherwise. I only brought it up "just in case" anyone was contemplating a control change due to the added clutch effort.
Yes...most LEA's that I am aware of use the SE (or equivalent) clutches. However, that does not mean every motorman can handle it either. I met one police motorman buddy at a fire station one evening and we installed a VPC in his ride. When he retired from the force, I met him at that same remote fire station and we removed the VPC.
The good thing about the 98 and newer clutch-packs is that you don't need that compression tool or have to fool with the infernal internal snap-rings. It just involves removing 6 screws that hold a fixture over the spring and against the pressure plate.
Yes...most LEA's that I am aware of use the SE (or equivalent) clutches. However, that does not mean every motorman can handle it either. I met one police motorman buddy at a fire station one evening and we installed a VPC in his ride. When he retired from the force, I met him at that same remote fire station and we removed the VPC.
The good thing about the 98 and newer clutch-packs is that you don't need that compression tool or have to fool with the infernal internal snap-rings. It just involves removing 6 screws that hold a fixture over the spring and against the pressure plate.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 461
Likes: 8
From: western CT
When I tore mine down I found it had no "spring plate" in the middle of the plate stack. Put it back together the same with stock friction and steel plates as were in it.... Hope i did ok number of plates was much higher than manual says I had, but like i said it didnt have the rivet spring plate mid stack. Was told the plus 1 clutch had no spring plate in the stack? So dont be surprised when your plate # doesnt match up to manual.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
Maybe better off without it. I tore a slipping clutch down on one recently and the slipping was due to a couple of those rivets that had worn and fell out of that spring-plate. One found a home lodged in between the plate and a wafer.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 1,730
From: In The Woods, PA
OK, So I took the old clutch out. The brass rivets from the spring plate had come out and were jamming things up in the basket, and had rubbed some of the fiber off the fiber discs. Put in the new SE clutch (that doesn't use the spring plate), and now no pull on the clutch lever. Did I mention this is my first attempt at changing a clutch??
I put the bike in neutral and had the most slack in the cable when I changed the clutch. Do I now have to reset the ball and ramp?
I plan on taking the side off the transmission Tuesday night to see what I can see.
Any experience or help with this issue would greatly appreciated
I put the bike in neutral and had the most slack in the cable when I changed the clutch. Do I now have to reset the ball and ramp?
I plan on taking the side off the transmission Tuesday night to see what I can see.
Any experience or help with this issue would greatly appreciated
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 1,730
From: In The Woods, PA
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 461
Likes: 8
From: western CT
I'd pull the derby cover and run the rod back in make sure it goes, can have burrs on the thread. Then adjust the cable again till it tightens lever up then back off to get your 1/8 free play
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 4,547
From: Haslet Texas
OK, So I took the old clutch out. The brass rivets from the spring plate had come out and were jamming things up in the basket, and had rubbed some of the fiber off the fiber discs. Put in the new SE clutch (that doesn't use the spring plate), and now no pull on the clutch lever. Did I mention this is my first attempt at changing a clutch??
I put the bike in neutral and had the most slack in the cable when I changed the clutch. Do I now have to reset the ball and ramp?
I plan on taking the side off the transmission Tuesday night to see what I can see.
Any experience or help with this issue would greatly appreciated
I put the bike in neutral and had the most slack in the cable when I changed the clutch. Do I now have to reset the ball and ramp?
I plan on taking the side off the transmission Tuesday night to see what I can see.
Any experience or help with this issue would greatly appreciated