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My friend had a partial set of chrome spokes and he gave me a few. I scuffed them with 400 grit sandpaper and they match the zinc ones pretty well. Then I spent a couple hours polishing them all.
I tackled the rear wheel first. First problem is the hub isn't symetrical, as the service manual implies. Because the illustration says there is a spacer under the drive pulley, it led me to believe the wider side was the pulley side. There was also some telltale yellow paint on that side. Thirdly, I had a picture that showed the disk side has a deeper raised center ring. So I assembled the wheel with the hole for the tube on the brake side.
First side loosely assembled:
I'm using a newer rim, so the spokes go in the same direction on either side, not opposite like the original. But everything fit, and is snug for now.
The front went together much faster, as the rims are the same new and old. Here is my truing stand, a piece of 3/4" all thread and two nuts. I used the spacers from the rear on this one too.
Now comes the hard part, truing and torquing the spokes.
Yeah, I know. I've got all that in my shop in CT. Florida is many steps smaller, because this is a one-off project.
I have to wrap up the primary next week so my cousin can bring the heavy sockets and other big tools back to NY with him. I'm flying home with just a carry-on.
Yeah, I know. I've got all that in my shop in CT. Florida is many steps smaller, because this is a one-off project.
I have to wrap up the primary next week so my cousin can bring the heavy sockets and other big tools back to NY with him. I'm flying home with just a carry-on.
I appreciate the Getter done banjo background music roots engineering! As we get older and financially more sound we sometimes forget our early years of having nothing and trying to make it work lol. Ive pulled and rebuilt 460 engines using a tree limb and assembled motors outside before lol painful memories actually. For years in Ohio weather all I had was gravel to lay on under my Mach 1 or Javlin I guess there is a reason I gave up on muscle cars.
I've never laced a wheel so you're a lot more knowledgeable about this then I am.
But when I was looking for a springer front wheel years ago I learned that a springer 21" front wheel has a different rim offset then wide glide 21's.
If I remember correctly it was to clear the brake caliper.
Yes, @s-glide76 the shop manual gives the different offsets for each model.
@Architect@Rains2much I just ordered a mag-base dial indicator, so I'm not going totally primitive. The first set of wheels I ever trued I used a sharpie to find the high spots, but decided not to repeat that level of making due.
I was hoping to put the primary drive together today, but got stymied by the littlest thing - wrong clutch key! I got one for a 4-speed, but my friend will swap it out for the later hat style tomorrow.
But I did get the alternator installed. I measured the coils first, 0.0-0.2 ohms pin to pin and open circuit to ground. There was no clip, so I glued the plug and wires with RTV. Here's the little spacer washer, the big one is outside the rotor. You can't see it but the starter jackshaft is installed in the case.
Ready to install, the chain has been soaking in PB Blaster for a year. Does anyone recognize the clutch? It's a diaphragm type, not what the manual shows for 1989, nor is it the 1990-up style.
If the wooden wedge doesn't work, to tighten the nuts, I have a piece of flat barstock I'll make the proper tool from.
How’s the chain feel? Personally I would have replaced the chain. I’m guessing your gonna be adjusting it a lot more frequently than normal for the first 5-7000 miles. I’d probably rinse the pb blaster with gas and a tooth brush, then soap and water, wipe down really well, then soak in atf before installing, but that’s just me.
That clutch isn’t like what was on any of mine, but looks straight forward. In fact, the basket isn’t exactly like any of my stock ones either but I don’t know what pre 90-06 look like. Probably either an early style I’ve not seen or maybe aftermarket. Be interesting to count teeth on ring gear. Curious what starter too now.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 4, 2026 at 06:23 AM.
Maybe so, @Rains2much but I only expect to put a thousand or so miles a year on it. I gave the chain a good looking over, and all the rollers turn easily.
I wish I knew more about the clutch, so I can find the adjustment procedure. The four bolts tighten the diaphragm, but how much should they be tightened? It's hard to turn them equally, so I'll have to make a mark on the heads when I do it for real.
I ran both the steels and frictions over 400 grit paper, then cleaned them with acetone to remove any residue from the pine-sol bath I gave it last year. The pressure plate is crazy thick
This is the clutch pack on the bike, 7 steel, 6 fiber. I still need someone to identify it.
It's together but I didn't know how tight to make the four bolts. The primary cover has to come off again to tighten the long bolt to the starter next year. Hopefully by then I'll know how to adjust it properly.
The outer primary is on but not tight. It cleaned up really nicely, as did the Live to Ride stuff from @Old Sport I have to get more screws for the inspection cover, the PO used the wrong type, and I only had one in my stash.
Now I can pack up my big sockets and torque wrenches, they won't be needed anymore. I'll still have a smaller torque wrench here.
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